3 Bad Water Pumps in 4 months???

[VitaMeVas]

My saga continues....to catch you up check out my first thread entitled "2 New Gates Water Pumps Bad??" **here's a link:
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/2-new-gates-water-pumps-bad.197951/
So guess what?!? I took my sons (3 and 6 yo) over to my parents house (10 miles away) and planned on taking my dad out for a spin. Figured 3 generations, old car, nice cruise....woo hoo. Problem is, I pulled up to my parents house with coolant/water pouring out of the front of the engine. On first inspection, I thought it might be coming from the lower portion of the water pump gasket (which would make it my fault). But with dad and a flashlight, we could clearly see the coolant pouring out from behind the fan pulley (ie water pump). I can't tell if it's coming from the weep hole or the seal around the water pump shaft bushing, but that's it. So.....what am I doing wrong?? I'm not a mechanic, but I'm also not an idiot. The belts have never been overtightened (I learned that lesson 20 yrs ago). I put a thin layer of grey RTV on the pump mating surface, then the gasket (no rtv on the block) and torque everything down in a cross-wise pattern to 30-35 ft lbs. I use RTV on the long bolts and even clean the threads of the bolts each time. Also....I've not had it leak from the gasket yet. I've not replaced the thermostat, but my aftermarket engine temp gauge reads 130 (min reading) on start up, climbs to 180 and it lives there whenever I drive it. The only time I've had the engine temp reach 220 is after the impeller first broke (I confirmed that no pieces were missing from the impeller) and the engine continued to warm up after it first broke down (see above link).
As a side note....to try and do some engine 101, I bought a compression testing kit (2 weeks ago when everything was running fine) and tested each cylinder by pulling the spark plugs individually. I did 3, 4 sec ignition turns on each cylinder and they all ranged between 165 and 180 psi. I felt like I learned a little and had a base line in case the engine started acting funny later. My point??....my head gaskets etc should be in good order.
So...am I doing something wrong (besides getting NAPA water pumps)?? Or is this one of those fluke 'bad batch' of water pumps trilogy nightmares?? I don't see any coolant leaks anywhere else on the engine and the heater core plumbing isn't even hooked up. I'm not a mechanic, but this seems weird. I have no problem buying another water pump (different brand - maybe direct mopar/chrysler) but I'm worried I'm missing something.
I've talked to a couple mechanics (including the man that built the engine in CO in 2016) and they all said to stay away from parts stores water pumps and buy something Chrysler/Mopar made. I like fixing things on this car, but not the same dang thing over and over!!! HELP!!

 

[dadsbee]

Modern world junk. I'm still running the original pumps and impellers on both of my cars. Post in the WTB for a stock OE pump assembly.

 

[VitaMeVas]

twecomm suggested FlowKooler. I found model 1701 that looks right. Also heard GMB from a few people on here. Other advice/opinions?

 

[65wgn440]

I don't believe Gates offers reman pumps, so I assume they are new pumps (all remans are junk these days). Dirty, poor condition coolant ( grit left over from previous failure) ? Could you be running pump dry for extended period of time during air bleed after replacement ? Drilling a small bypass hole in T-stat and using a spill free funnel helps prevent this. Or maybe just a bad run, like you said. I use Gates pumps pretty often and have not had issues (knock on wood !!). Maybe try another supplier, they almost all sell Gates.

 

[OKDart]

I don't think it's that unusual these days for new parts to be bad out of the box, or shortly after.
I replaced a water pump on a car that hadn't ran since the 70's. I used the same brand pump I had on another car that had served me well for 10+ years and going. I was using the Prestone system flush too due to the brown crap that came out of the radiator when I flushed it with water. That pump got me about 20 miles down the road, then spewed from the weep hole. Still not sure whether it was the Prestone flush or a bad pump. The next one I used was a different brand and it lasted.

 

[VitaMeVas]

I don't believe Gates offers reman pumps, so I assume they are new pumps (all remans are junk these days). Dirty, poor condition coolant ( grit left over from previous failure) ? Could you be running pump dry for extended period of time during air bleed after replacement ? Drilling a small bypass hole in T-stat and using a spill free funnel helps prevent this. Or maybe just a bad run, like you said. I use Gates pumps pretty often and have not had issues (knock on wood !!). Maybe try another supplier, they almost all sell Gates.

Yes, these have all been NEW Gates. Half new prestone antifreeze, half distilled water EVERY time. Nothing brown found. I can’t speak for what the previous owner had in it, but that one only lasted 6 weeks. The fluid was clear greenish (and quite sweet.... j/k). Not sure about the running air dry. I just patiently fill the radiator full and turn it over. Then while it’s still running...I keep adding. Within a few minutes, it’s full up and up to temp. On the thermostat, I considered changing it, but (once again) I’m worried I’ll replace it with a NEW broken piece of junk. . I appreciate the suggestions.

 

[Demonic]

How are the bearings on the old failed pumps? How does the lower pulley look while it's running - smooth with no wobble? Friend of mine had a 340 with a bent lower pulley. Belt got tight-loose-tight at a rapid pace while running, took out a water pump before he caught it.

 

[beanhead]

FWIW--my flowkooler pump leaked out the weep hole in less than a year.
But, since you seem to have a repeat issue, how's the alignment between the water pump pulley and crank pulley? Needs to have less than 1/16" or .0625" alignment difference between groove centers.
Also, make absolutely sure the vanes/ rotating parts aren't contacting the inside of the pump housing at all...some pumps need a slightly thicker gasket to avoid any internal rubbing. Beyond that, if your belts are the proper tension, you could very well just be having a run of bad luck with junk pumps.. try a different brand.

 

[bm02tj]

Some water pumps are ruined by straight antifreeze hitting the seal before it is mixed with water
always add mixed never antifreeze then water to much risk for damage

 

[Bb70charger500]

I am going threw same issue but with a $300 throttle body for my wife's cousins Toyota truck .
I've ordered 3 different ones first no worky second there was a plug missing but it worked except huge water leak . 3rd again not working I finally took the second stuck a plug in it and jb welded it in it worked a hole day (my fix held the tps failed)
All from rock auto because the local shops wanted $600 or so . This part can't be bought new it's only reman so the poor kid now is fighting with Rock auto for refunds and has to drop the $600 anyways .
Thank God it's only a 5min job to install or I'd be pissed

Reman stuff sucks

Hell just the other week my reman brake caliper 2000 miles on it blew apart why I was towing a car home (these were supposed to be heavy duty parts too)
Rock auto yet again !
I'm done with them !

 

[VitaMeVas]

Thanks for the input everybody! The pulleys are aligned, but I’ll triple check, mix my antifreeze first and keep plugging along. I do know the pulley spins free (finns not bound up) each time by turning it once (nothing crazy). A neighbor mentioned an additive I can add to help with the WP bushing seal. I’ll either try FlowKooler or Mopar factory part next.

 

[toolmanmike]

No time to back read but is the belt tension too tight?

 

[mopar jack]

I have 170 k miles on my srt charger and the pump started leaking. Replaced with a Gates pump and a week later it's leaking. New parts are not reliable.

 

[toolmanmike]

I have 170 k miles on my srt charger and the pump started leaking. Replaced with a Gates pump and a week later it's leaking. New parts are not reliable.

I know what brand of pump not to use. Thanks

 

[toolmanmike]

I used a Airtex on my Dakota. I sold them back in the 70's and were a top notch product back then. That can change, but it looked like the oem and so far/so good.

 

[VitaMeVas]

No time to back read but is the belt tension too tight?

Tension is fine. My dad drilled that into me 30 yrs ago. And then again yesterday (now he’s 70 yo and I’m 43). Ha ha.

 

[Dodge33]

Just a FYI.. find an original cast iron water pump, and go get you a Hemmings Motor News
book, and go to the "Services Offered" section of the book and find Arther Gould water
pump rebuilding, and contact them for rebuilding the pump. I have used them a few
times, and they are good at what they do. It has been a long while since I have used
them, so not sure on their pricing. Good Luck with whatever you decide.

 

[MOPOWER871]

Having great success with Milodon water pumps, they use large diameter shafts with heavy duty bearings.all housings are new castings. Been using same pump 5 years.
Not to get off point, as far as coolant I run a zero water coolant .this means no hot spots, steam pockets witch translates to better heat transfer, low pressure system 5 lbs cap system this coolant has a boiling point of 375 degrees no water no rust, no corrosion. Check it out. It never goes bad. drain it, strain it, reuse it.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T8npdzfvYSI&ved=2ahUKEwiI1qvAvfrqAhW6mHIEHZXaAxkQwqsBMAB6BAgIEAU&usg=AOvVaw3CBtO0GoVLkMFzV7cIPxLn

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7PykrgzWPQ&ved=2ahUKEwiI1qvAvfrqAhW6mHIEHZXaAxkQwqsBMAF6BAgIEAg&usg=AOvVaw2gzLWn2VnM6b9U_i8wQVKQ

 

[1967coronet]

I would bet your 1st guess was correct. A bad batch of recon water pumps making their way through napas system.
It happens, ps pumps , alternators , ect ect.
The old bead blast and rebox rebuild. Sucks.
I use napa myself for many parts, hell next week it could be Advanced or Autozone going through it.
I would just use a different automotive and grab a pump. Also while you have everything apart check your fan over good,
out of balance , ect may be wiping out the pumps.

 

[Ranger16]

Seems like I have been noticing a lot of complaints here about Napa parts. I got an alternator from them about 2 yrs ago. It lasted one month. Took it back for a replacement and the replacement had a big ding in the pulley. It looked like it had been dropped and landed on the pulley. I got a refund and bought one from Advanced.