Do the bushings slide on the yoke before
You install them?
You install them?
4 speed trouble
- Thread starter swampdonkey
- Start date
The 727 and 4 speed bushing are the same. Built about 15 727 this year. I’ve had a recent run of new bushings that are to tight after install. I’ve used the same bushing driver for years. I’ve been able to burnish a few of them with an old yoke. A few I have not. Just had to install another bushing.
Doug
Doug
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Did you try some antisieze for the install? It will reduce the friction and should ease your trouble.
Mike
Mike
swampdonkey
Well-Known Member
Yes same results I believe the bore is to small or the bushing is the wrong one.
Got the bushing from brewers in a kit so I'm inclined to think it's the bore.
swampdonkey
Well-Known Member
It weird because the new and old bushing both measure out the same yet the old one was very sloppy in the tail shaft housing
And the new one can't even get the yoke in.
And the new one can't even get the yoke in.
swampdonkey
Well-Known Member
Going to order a couple more bushings and wait for the new drive shaft see what I need to do
As a machinist that installs LOTS of cam bearings and other bushings, I notice the huge gouge marks on the OD of the bushing. Once installed, the ID is reduced by the height of the OD damage, just like a tight cam bearing. The housing bore has damage or sharp edges that is catching the bushing metal, and dragging it along making the garbage larger, kind of like building a snowman.
Remove the transmission, remove the extension housing and clean up the bushing area by dressing the bore entry and running a ball hone could help too. Check fit with a slip yoke, and if it is still too tight, have it honed on a rod hone like fitting piston pins in rod bushings or king pins.
Forget my honing the bushing part, you can't hone babbit.
Remove the transmission, remove the extension housing and clean up the bushing area by dressing the bore entry and running a ball hone could help too. Check fit with a slip yoke, and if it is still too tight, have it honed on a rod hone like fitting piston pins in rod bushings or king pins.
Forget my honing the bushing part, you can't hone babbit.
Last edited:
Mick56
Well-Known Member
When you get everything ready to install, you could warm the housing to expand it, and freeze the bushing. You can gain a couple thousandths that way. Just work quickly when driving it in.
swampdonkey
Well-Known Member
Yes I believe I will remove the tranny and remove the extension housing inspect the bore get new bushings have a machine shop make the necessary corrections but first I'll give honning a try
Honing doesn’t work very well. I tried that as well.
Doug
MCODECUDA
Well-Known Member
Just take the housing, old & new bushings and the yoke to a local transmission shop. When I rebuilt mine the local transmission shop pressed out the old one and pressed on the new one for free.
Bill76
Well-Known Member
My money is there is a burr in the tail shaft . It don't take much to distort the bushing,the scratch marks on the new bushing is a dead give away. Could have gotten burred up by someone driving out bushing with a chisel or other impropriate tool years ago.
I turned my own tool out of a bar of aluminum with a shoulder on it---drives out the old and flip the tool and drive in the new bushing.
I doubt you got a hand full of out of spec bushings
I turned my own tool out of a bar of aluminum with a shoulder on it---drives out the old and flip the tool and drive in the new bushing.
I doubt you got a hand full of out of spec bushings
swampdonkey
Well-Known Member
Ya! It's coming apart and I'll post what I find.
Thanks to everyone for all the info and comments.
Thanks to everyone for all the info and comments.
I think I need to walk back the honing part. I was thinking steel backed bronze, but I don't think Mopar uses any. You can't hone babbit, but it could be bored though.
swampdonkey
Well-Known Member
Ok thanks Doug I will just have a machine shop do it and be done with it. I don't need anymore trouble bad enough I got to pull the trans out again for the third time in 6 months.
swampdonkey
Well-Known Member
swampdonkey
Well-Known Member
Thanks Doug I pulled the transmission and got it on the bench.
I put the new Bush back in and got brave enough to install the old yoke all the way in just to check to see how hard it was to turn it. Had to use a 1" bar a foot long to start it then it started to turn and got easier could turn by hand now. I didn't dare drive it all the way in in the car cause I thought I would never get it out. Now i just hope the new yoke does the same then I'll put it back in for the third time in a few months and hopefully no vibrations. If I had the balls to put the yoke in all the way when it was in the car I probably would have been ok but when it takes three lbs. Hammer and a one inch bar to turn it i was concerned.
I put the new Bush back in and got brave enough to install the old yoke all the way in just to check to see how hard it was to turn it. Had to use a 1" bar a foot long to start it then it started to turn and got easier could turn by hand now. I didn't dare drive it all the way in in the car cause I thought I would never get it out. Now i just hope the new yoke does the same then I'll put it back in for the third time in a few months and hopefully no vibrations. If I had the balls to put the yoke in all the way when it was in the car I probably would have been ok but when it takes three lbs. Hammer and a one inch bar to turn it i was concerned.
Did you inspect the housing bore before you put yet another bushing in with the same result? The bore needs to be addressed so that the bushing doesn't bind.
It very likely will cure your vibration. I have an old Vette that had a vibration until I rebuilt the transmission and replaced the rear bushing and yoke and it fixed it.
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