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440 budget build what do you think?

I'm not saying not to eventually change the headers would not be high on my priority list as conventional larger ones are only going to help on the very top end
work through PIPEMAX first
 
Well, a couple of years has went by, so here's an update.
Managed to do 12.24 sec with the xe284h hydraulic cam with open exhaust.
Changed to a hughes 250/254 dur 0.588/0.6 lift solid flat tappet cam (changed springs as well) and went 12.0 flat./110mph.
The car still feels down on power after 5000ish rpm. (thought the cam/lifter swap would cure the problem).
Have a msd billet distributor I will install during this winter, hopefully this will help since I'm running a old chrysler dizzy.

My thoughts lately has been on the torque converter, can a bad/miss matched torque converter give the symptoms/feeling of loss of power?

What's your thoughts on this?

IMG_20210610_194449.jpg IMG_20210721_195819.jpg FB_IMG_1626978160092.jpg
 
Degree the cam if possible. I’m assuming that’s the same timing chain. I’ve seen them off as much as 4 degrees. Usually they’re right on. Too much cam advance could cause it to lay over. Most cams have a bit of advance ground in. Usually 4 degrees. Just a thought. You can do it in the car with the heads still on.
 
Could be the convertor, but not likely. If it feels good down low, probably OK. If it's slow across the board, maybe the convertor. How is the fuel delivery system? What fuel pump, line size from rear to front? Also the cam is fairly low on duration like many modern cam designs. I'd also back the installed centerline back to 106-108. Header size is just a little small, but shouldn't be real negative.
 
When I first got my 440 6bbl, right when it was starting to "come on strong" it would fall on its face. I suspected weak springs and I was right. I know you said you changed them, but if they aren't controlling valve movements properly, well...
After the springs, and for good measure retainers, pushrods, hydraulic lifters, and locks were changed, my 440 demands I let it rip up to 6,200 RPMs. I have to believe the 292/.509 cam has a lot to do with that.
 
Degree the cam if possible. I’m assuming that’s the same timing chain. I’ve seen them off as much as 4 degrees. Usually they’re right on. Too much cam advance could cause it to lay over. Most cams have a bit of advance ground in. Usually 4 degrees. Just a thought. You can do it in the car with the heads still on.
New timing chain and degreeing the cam.
 
Could be the convertor, but not likely. If it feels good down low, probably OK. If it's slow across the board, maybe the convertor. How is the fuel delivery system? What fuel pump, line size from rear to front? Also the cam is fairly low on duration like many modern cam designs. I'd also back the installed centerline back to 106-108. Header size is just a little small, but shouldn't be real negative.
I have no issues with fuel supply, checked fuel pressure/ afr/ plugs.
 
When I got my Satellite, it had 500" EDE RPM, Comp XS 274S 236/242 @.050 502/511, Carter electric pump at the rear, 3/8 fuel line, Crane HI6, my antique Mopar Hemi electronic distributor (which I've run past 8400RPM). It laid down about 5000 RPM. I redid the fuel system Mallory 140 pump, 1/2'' fuel line to the front. Switched to an antique Cam Dynamics 260/[email protected] 565/585. Now runs past 6200 RPM with no problem.
My first runs when I got it ran through the mufflers, which were tube "cherry bomb" style. 12.65 @ 104, open headers 11.90 @ 110. 3870# with me.
The Cam Dynamics cam and updated fuel system got it down to 11.10 @ 120+. 3870# with me.
The new 512" motor has gone 10.50 @ 127. 3750# with me. Lots more in it with major chassis tuning & carb tuning.
 
Well, a couple of years has went by, so here's an update.
Managed to do 12.24 sec with the xe284h hydraulic cam with open exhaust.
Changed to a hughes 250/254 dur 0.588/0.6 lift solid flat tappet cam (changed springs as well) and went 12.0 flat./110mph.
The car still feels down on power after 5000ish rpm. (thought the cam/lifter swap would cure the problem).
Have a msd billet distributor I will install during this winter, hopefully this will help since I'm running a old chrysler dizzy.

My thoughts lately has been on the torque converter, can a bad/miss matched torque converter give the symptoms/feeling of loss of power?

What's your thoughts on this?

View attachment 1214940 View attachment 1214941 View attachment 1214942
You said you went to a solid cam,, what rockers did you use?
 
First thing I would do would be take stock of your valve springs. Get a height mike to see where the springs are, and how much of the right load you have on them. Fix if need be. Then call Hughes and see how much you can tighten the lash to see if the motor likes it or not. I would think you can go as tight as . 014 hot. Check where the cam is installed. If you are at recommended install, fine. You could also try 2 to 4 degrees advance, especially if you have less than ideal compression. Also do you have collecters on the car?
 
The Swedish winter is over, so time for an update!
My plan for this winter was to change the oilpan, add a windage trayand install my msd dizzy.
Well.... When I dropped the old pan, I decided to check the bearings, they were bad so I janked the engine out to change bearings.
Long story short, my brother and I decided to build a fixture so we could topdeck our blocks.
Went from 10.1 to 10.7 compression ratio.
Since the engine was out, I also swaped my Hughes 3000stall 11" torque converter for a custom made 9.5" converter.
Hopefully will this combo send me in to the 11s at the quarter.

IMG_20220429_112821.jpg IMG_20220509_195431.jpg IMG_20220510_183322.jpg IMG_20220518_135219.jpg
 
I can't see how it won't go 11s.
 
Curious how the new converter works out?
12.0 @ 110 MPH seems like the car is working pretty good.
My '71 Charger (4,150 lb street car) could only manage 12.5 @ 110 MPH with the old engine (at mile-high altitude.)
The new engine has ran 120 MPH in the quarter, but 60' are worse, and Et's in the 11.6-11.7 range.
Likely will take out the 0.960" Torsen bars and replace them with bars from a 318 car, and remove the KYB shocks and install some adjustible shocks and see if I can get the car to hook up?
 
Curious how the new converter works out?
12.0 @ 110 MPH seems like the car is working pretty good.
My '71 Charger (4,150 lb street car) could only manage 12.5 @ 110 MPH with the old engine (at mile-high altitude.)
The new engine has ran 120 MPH in the quarter, but 60' are worse, and Et's in the 11.6-11.7 range.
Likely will take out the 0.960" Torsen bars and replace them with bars from a 318 car, and remove the KYB shocks and install some adjustible shocks and see if I can get the car to hook up?
Will be very interested and see how the new converter works, with my old hydraulic cam and the Hughes tq, the car manage 12.2s and just 11.91 with 100hp nitrous, felt like the nitrous just went through the converter, a raise in the rpms when I hit the button but not so much in acceleration.
 
Curious how the new converter works out?
12.0 @ 110 MPH seems like the car is working pretty good.
My '71 Charger (4,150 lb street car) could only manage 12.5 @ 110 MPH with the old engine (at mile-high altitude.)
The new engine has ran 120 MPH in the quarter, but 60' are worse, and Et's in the 11.6-11.7 range.
Likely will take out the 0.960" Torsen bars and replace them with bars from a 318 car, and remove the KYB shocks and install some adjustible shocks and see if I can get the car to hook up?
So your '71 Charger is a 10.60 127 car in the flat lands. Darn good.
 
So your '71 Charger is a 10.60 127 car in the flat lands. Darn good.
I would think you'd have to be at a record setting track (-900) but that would be debatable..
( followed by a mad gnashing of calculator keys lol )
 
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