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440 budget build what do you think?

Due to all the high taxes on everything here, everything are expensive as hell.
Just payed 6,5 $ / gallon of gas today.
 
Making power is fun and I love rebuilding the engines. But new parts can drive up the price real fast. On budget builds, you may not make the most torque and HP, but if you think about your cars weight and chassis as much as you pipe dream about a big honkin fire breathing dragon of an engine, you'll find you can pick up quite a bit of time on the clock by effectively using what power you have.

Keep making use of the grey matter. It's your most power go fast part.

I take a lot of ribbing with the use of used parts. But cheap is cheap and it ain't cheap unless you run a me too Chevy. So used parts and OE parts will do often.
My biggest ribbing comes from the use of the TQ which is often up top a used M1 single plane. Add big cam and gears, you'll get going. It may not be the most efficient package, but at a $150 for an intake and a total of $100 on a rebuilt 850 TQ, it's a good street strip start.

Most of my time is in the street anyways. So the spreadbore is at least flexible enough for me.
 
Update.
Was able to clock 8.82 and 82mph at 1/8 mile with the belvedere.
60' was 2.2sec
This was with old 205/75r15 regular street tires.
The track was 280 miles from home during classic car week here in sweden. Spent the entire week there with my family and put about 745 miles in the car.
The lack of space made me leave the slicks at home.
 
You guys are NUTS for running that close to each other.
 
Time for an update...
Had a small knocking sound from the engine when I drove the car home from the winter storage.
Just barely heard it under a certain load, dropped the pan and it was full with bearing residue.
Engine sits in the garage cleaned and waiting for cam bearings at the moment. Have to make cam bearing installation tool, but almost finished.
The cause of bearing failure is probably oil starvation. Believe it happened when I made a test launch with the slicks and the trans didn't shift gear until over 6000 rpm, lost oil pressure for a second.

Will lower the pressure and adjust the throttle pressure valve in the transmission to hopefully make it change gear around 5500rpm.

Also made a bigger oil pan.

A sniper nitrous kit and nitrous fuel system sitting in the garage waiting to be installed.

Aiming at 12s without nitrous
 
thanks for the update

good luck with that
 
The biggest reason I run a 6AL ignition is the rev limit. Woulda saved your motor.
 
The biggest reason I run a 6AL ignition is the rev limit. Woulda saved your motor.
I thought about buying a 6al, I already had the 6a on a shelf in the garage so I used it instead of the faulty orange box that came with the car.
The 6al would have saved the engine for sure.
 
Having a Rev control is very good. I had my early MSD with no rev limiter, ran the motor to 8400 RPM. No good! Broken parts. Having the limiter is a good thing.
 
One comment, you're running 40* total timing. In my iron head motors with 11.5 to 13.0 CR I never ran above 38 all in at 1200 RPM. My 10.5 CR EDE RPM head 500" liked 36*. Just a thought.
 
One comment, you're running 40* total timing. In my iron head motors with 11.5 to 13.0 CR I never ran above 38 all in at 1200 RPM. My 10.5 CR EDE RPM head 500" liked 36*. Just a thought.
Only have about 8-8.3 CR and it likes 39-40 deg, don't like less than 20 deg initial.
 
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Carter fuel pump and aluminium fuel line installed for the nitrous
Solenoids and fuel regulator installed.
 
Only have about 8-8.3 CR and it likes 39-40 deg, don't like less than 20 deg initial.

OK, everybodies combo is a little different. I also have a full mechanical advance dist where the full advance is in about at idle, so that may be another difference. Good luck.
 
Bottle and wot switch got installed last evening.
I do the work on the car outside, and the gnats are well fed this week.

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Update!
Finally found a set of speed pro l2355 pistons in std bore dimension.
I have lighten the pistons and wrist pins, so they will match the stock low comp pistons weight.

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I've also got a set of edelbrock e-street heads which will be prepped by me, involves back cutting the valves, lap them, and a general port match and clean up the ports and combustion chambers.
 
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If that has a cast crank your wasting your time its going to break leave well enough alone
Have you broke one? We run a stock cast crank to 850hp (9.55@142/3775lbs). Year 6, still going.
Doug
 
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