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440 short block

That sucks. Like @Matthew J said... The machine shop offset ground that journal, which you proved when you saw 0.020 on the stroke. You could have them recenter the offset but that will get you way under on the journal diameter. I dunno man... I'd start with asking for a new crank and work backwards from there. That one may be toast. Very worst case have them offset the three others and use thick head gaskets. But then you start running into there pains. If you're serious about the motor... Get a new crank.
 
So update on this
Talked to engine shop yesterday he said he ground crank that way to save it because of spun rod bearing it was warped, which I figured was the case. He said if I bring him another crank he will grind, balance and and install on his dime.
He assured me that I would never know the difference and his sprint car engines they build are done like this all the time. I have another forged crank, but it’s probably going to be a month or 2 for him to get it ground and rebalanced.
My question is what would you guys do give him crank and wait or run it how it is? The block was bored and honed with torque plate, fully balanced and line bore checked I have tf250 heads and a custom ground cam for it
 
Junk the crank you have with the problem. Either take the other core crank to be re-done to him, or someone else, depending on how you feel about the deal. I probably would be looking for a more a detail focused shop and move on.
 
If you ran a .027 gasket you'd have good quench.
Except for those 2 cylinders...
I'd wait for the new crank
 
Running what you have is not a problem. It’s the compromise you’re making on piston to head clearance. You’ll need to decide if that is important to you, and if so, how much. Then make a decision.
 
Wait. To bad he did call that was poor judgement. HIS sprint car OK yours without a heads up no. Push him a little but nicely.
 
Well I finally got this engine together and installed. It runs awesome!!

IMG_3713.jpeg
 
Glad to hear you are good to go now. The crank grinding process was flawed because the crank SHOULD have been straightened first, then grind the spun rod journal to establish the crankpin size & stroke and finish the other three crankpins the same dimension. As to the people talking about offset grinding, that is incorrect. If a journal is offset ground, the end result will require a smaller bearing/rod big end due to removing metal from one side, thus changing the orbit of the crank journal. What the machinist did was adjust the "stroke" of the crankpin to accommodate the difference in dimension due to the damaged journal. With the crank index (90 degrees) and stroke set, the damaged journal should have been ground to size, and match the others. Also, as long as the radius is cut properly, it makes absolutely NO difference in crank strength how much is removed. As someone already noted, we used to remove 0.125" from an RB crank to put it into a B motor. GM guys have been doing the same to put a 400 crank into a 350 to make a 383, and there is a Ford combination that requires 0.280" to be removed from the mains. The nice thing today is aftermarket cranks are already made with the different sizes to start with for the different stroking scenarios.
 
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