• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

440 street cam

sc440

Well-Known Member
Local time
3:39 PM
Joined
Apr 22, 2023
Messages
92
Reaction score
79
Location
ohio
So I am building a 440 it’s going to be stock stroke .030 over with exhaust manifolds rpm intake manifold , car is a 69 roadrunner 3.73 gear auto this is the sft cam I was recommended what do you guys think and what compression ratio should a do ( stealth heads with checked and valve job redone).Car will just be street driven but looking for a little power want to run on 93 pump thanks for any advice

IMG_2859.png
 
This is on order at bullet it’s 7 weeks out so I can change it, this was what he recommended I was thinking it might be a little more than the manifolds want. What should I change?
 
Looks like a pretty good manifold cam. The carb, intake, and converter play a role in cam choice.

Run 10.0 to 10.3:1 compression with quench. Cam timing matters here as well.

Overall, it kinda depends on how much power you want, and how close to the edge you’re comfortable with.
 
When you say cam timing does that mean install at 108? Probably going to run the rpm intake and haven’t decided on carb yet, eventually want a 6 pack because the car is a real 69.5 m-code just not sure if it’s in the budget yet. To get quench with the stealth head what piston was thinking icon maybe -4 zero decked? Car has a turbo action 9” j converter in it now probably get a custom one made if it is to loose
 
Really don’t want to push compression to much on the edge was thinking 9.5 - 10:1?
 
This is on order at bullet it’s 7 weeks out so I can change it, this was what he recommended I was thinking it might be a little more than the manifolds want. What should I change?
If you told the guys at Bullet all about your parts combo and intentios, I wouldn't change anything.
Honestly...if Tim (or someone else there) recommended this cam, the last thing you should be doing is second-guessing them with internet advice! You won't be disappointed. They're a good outfit and they know Mopar engines.
 
Yes that’s what they recommended still trying to figure out what piston to buy, the icon 2.067 compression height-4cc piston is what I am thinking should be at just over 10:1 with the 80cc stealths? Hopefully that will run on 93 pump or we also have 91 ethanol free around here what compression would be recommended with this cam and closed chamber aluminum stealth head.
 
Yes that’s what they recommended still trying to figure out what piston to buy, the icon 2.067 compression height-4cc piston is what I am thinking should be at just over 10:1 with the 80cc stealths? Hopefully that will run on 93 pump or we also have 91 ethanol free around here what compression would be recommended with this cam and closed chamber aluminum stealth head.
I haven't had any problems with 10.0, crappy CA 91 pump gas and TF 240 heads @ .039 quench....if you have 93 octane you'll be good to go. Anywhere between 9.0 and 10 or a nibble over will be fine and perform well. Stay on top of your tune but that goes without saying..

And (apologies if you're already aware of this) Mopar blocks have some of the crappiest deck consistency of all time, so if you're trying to calculate piston deck height and SCR to the gnat's *** just be ready to have you machinist square and deck the block to the exact spec you're after. In other words don't just go by the piston's advertised height....catalog specs are based on a 10.725 height at all 8 holes. If your block actually meets that spec...go buy some lottery tickets!
 
First what the goal on the comp. ratio? And the biggest question is what convertor are you going to use?
 
I haven't had any problems with 10.0, crappy CA 91 pump gas and TF 240 heads @ .039 quench....if you have 93 octane you'll be good to go. Anywhere between 9.0 and 10 or a nibble over will be fine and perform well. Stay on top of your tune but that goes without saying..

And (apologies if you're already aware of this) Mopar blocks have some of the crappiest deck consistency of all time, so if you're trying to calculate piston deck height and SCR to the gnat's *** just be ready to have you machinist square and deck the block to the exact spec you're after. In other words don't just go by the piston's advertised height....catalog specs are based on a 10.725 height at all 8 holes. If your block actually meets that spec...go buy some lottery tickets!
Thanks for the info
 
First what the goal on the comp. ratio? And the biggest question is what convertor are you going to use?
The goal is just to have fun with car and be able to run on pump gas without being on the ragged edge of detonation. I have a reverse pattern manual valve body 727 with a turbo action 9” model j converter in car now but I am thinking it will be to loose so I am not opposed to having converter tighten up or buy a custom built one if by needed.
 
Have you used the 9” J? Do you know what it stalls to?


The guys at Bullet can only help you based off the info you give them. Sounds like the info may have been a bit vague??

To me Bullet’s cam looks pretty small for a sold flat tappet, even with HP manifolds. I would go one step above that, the exh profile would be on the intake, and either run it as a single pattern cam on 112 LSA or add a little more exhaust duration (depending on the static compression and how high your stall is). I would add 8* for 247* @.050” on the exhaust if you have a decent stall (over 4000). If it is 3000 run it as a single pattern. It will be more forgiving on fuel and make more power with a little bigger cam. That cam would be fine with a stock converter, but it is leaving a fair amount of performance being that small. The .016” lash take off about 8* of duration at .050”. It will only be about 224* and 231* at .050” after the lash is taken up. Ok for a stock stall and 9:1 to 9.5:1 compression. I wouldn’t go higher than 9.5, above 9.5 won’t gain much power with that cam.

We have a 9” J stalls at 5500 RPM. Extremely loose but it holds 700HP. If that is how your 9” is set up you need to go converter shopping.
 
Have you used the 9” J? Do you know what it stalls to?


The guys at Bullet can only help you based off the info you give them. Sounds like the info may have been a bit vague??

To me Bullet’s cam looks pretty small for a sold flat tappet, even with HP manifolds. I would go one step above that, the exh profile would be on the intake, and either run it as a single pattern cam on 112 LSA or add a little more exhaust duration (depending on the static compression and how high your stall is). I would add 8* for 247* @.050” on the exhaust if you have a decent stall (over 4000). If it is 3000 run it as a single pattern. It will be more forgiving on fuel and make more power with a little bigger cam. That cam would be fine with a stock converter, but it is leaving a fair amount of performance being that small. The .016” lash take off about 8* of duration at .050”. It will only be about 224* and 231* at .050” after the lash is taken up. Ok for a stock stall and 9:1 to 9.5:1 compression. I wouldn’t go higher than 9.5, above 9.5 won’t gain much power with that cam.

We have a 9” J stalls at 5500 RPM. Extremely loose but it holds 700HP. If that is how your 9” is set up you need to go converter shopping
The back story on the car is I bought it in 1989 it was a old school bracket race car.It’s a real 69.5 a12 roadrunner original drivetrain was not in it. It had 4.88 8 3/4 with a ladder bar and 6 point cage. The engine in it is a 383 with 2293 trw pistons and cam dynamics sft.mild ported 906 I ran 2” primary super comp headers. From what I remember in 3rd gear rolling along the j converter would flash to about 3800-4000. I have been putting it back to more stockish condition roll bar is cut out, it has new leaf springs and a Dana 60 with 3.73 gear so this engine combo is going to be all new I told bullet what I had and goals for the cam. Wanting something fairly mild to eventually( when I can afford it) put a 6 pack back on. Going to run a rpm intake for now. I wanted a sft because I have adjustable rockers already and I can keep i eye on lifter wear by checking lash occasionally. I respect and appreciate all advice so I can end up with a car that runs good would be happy if it was capable of some high 12’s and look stock
 
From your description my thoughts are still go with the next size bigger cam. The cam they recommended won’t lope at all. Maybe you want a completely smooth idle and that is why they recommended it??? Nothing against Bullet, we run mostly Bullet cams.


If your 383 was pushing the J converter to nearly 4000, the mild 440 is going to be flashing it to 4200-4400.

The six pack intake is every bit as good as an RPM intake. Both intakes handle a LOT more cam if you desire. The HP manifolds are what I would be careful to not over cam the engine.

If it were mine I would ask them to jump up a size 239* on the intake and 247* on the exh on 112. It would lope some, still very mild though.
 
The combination you have described will get you to the high 12s @ about 110 mph with a stock converter and BFG street tires and a crappy 2.0 sec. 60 ft at an Ohio track in good air.

But I agree with DB, you could get more.

You just need to decide where you want to be between stockish street manners and performance
 
So I am building a 440 it’s going to be stock stroke .030 over with exhaust manifolds rpm intake manifold , car is a 69 roadrunner 3.73 gear auto this is the sft cam I was recommended what do you guys think and what compression ratio should a do ( stealth heads with checked and valve job redone).Car will just be street driven but looking for a little power want to run on 93 pump thanks for any advice

View attachment 1468849
mp resteration 440 Magnum / six pack cam it will work but u may need to use valve springs that r rated for upto a .500" lift
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top