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535 supercharged first start up... Didn't go so well. thoughts needed?

63dodge440

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So after the normal break in procedure. This is where I'm at. Only one lifter collapsed. I have decided to try again only with roller hydraulic lifters and a roller cam and the other details to make that work. My question is I am unsure why a couple of the valve stem tips have a taper on them. See pictures. Also, I thought I had the rocker arm assemblies in the proper orientation. See picture also. Thoughts appreciated

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The first picture is the lifter that is mated with the valve stem in question with the taper.

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This is the cam specs that were used for the flat. Tap it... My installed spring height was 1 and 7/8. I was also towed. It was good for 110 lb. My cam guy is sending me a roller. Camshaft and lifters and a inner spring of 25 lb to put with the springs that I have to make it 125 lb which he said is needed to run hydraulic roller lifters

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Looks to me like the lifter that failed was not spinning in the lifter bore. I have found out how critical the lifter bores are to ensure survival of flat tappet cams during break in. A burr in the lifter bore can cause this. I'm not saying definitively that was your cause, but that is my guess. Also, anymore, I feel like you need junk, weak springs for flat tappet cam break in so the cams/ listers survive.

By switching to a roller cam, these issues will essentially all go away. You do still need to make sure your valve spring coils will not bind with whatever cam lift you go with. You will also need to clean and check your engine for debris from the failed cam/lifters.

You said the valve stem tips have taper on them? This is hard to see in the pictures. Did you check your valve train (especially pushrod length) to be sure the geometry is right?
 
In general I'm at a complete loss why mopars wipe out cams and lifters at break in I did some schooling. I guess it's the cheap metal etc that we have to buy these days.
 
It was only that one lifter that was bad and it was just two of the valve tips that had slight tapers to them. It was stock pushrods and stock rocker arm assemblies. In post number three, that is the cam specs of the cam that I used..
 
With the pics of the valve stem and the rockers... Anyone see any reason it would have did that? It's only on two valve stems
 
Those valve stems didn't wear like that at start up. They were like that from install. Who did the valve job?
Doug
 
Those valve stems didn't wear like that at start up. They were like that from install. Who did the valve job?
Doug
A machine shop I've used many times. I didn't pay much attention because it's they set for several months before I decided to use them. I didn't see or think of any way those rocker arms would have done that. If you look at one of them, you can see where the rocker arm was riding right in the center where it should. They're stainless steel valves
 
A collapsed lifter is a different issue than one that wasn't spinning and flattened out the cam lobe....and did you look at the rockers before this all started? Rockers (and push rods) are a wear items too and need to be inspected if they are to be reused. These days you got to inspect every little detail on all the parts....shouldn't be that way but it is. I've seen new lifters right out of the box that looked like garbage.
 
A collapsed lifter is a different issue than one that wasn't spinning and flattened out the cam lobe....and did you look at the rockers before this all started? Rockers (and push rods) are a wear items too and need to be inspected if they are to be reused. These days you got to inspect every little detail on all the parts....shouldn't be that way but it is. I've seen new lifters right out of the box that looked like garbage.
I guess I didn't pay much attention to detail as I should when I bouldered the rocker assembly on was too worried about getting the rocker arms oriented in shaft and the proper orientation. Does anyone see any reason it would hurt to run those couple of valves that look like that the tops are flat was just a little mark where the rocker arm is
 
Also, the cam that he will be sending me will be close to the one and the above picture except the tolerances that are allowed for the roller lifters. As stated above he said to measure the push rod length as needed and add 0.15 to the push rod for the preload will be using those factory rocker arm assemblies again
 
Not to hijack the thread but need schooling on bushing of the lifter bores. What tolerance should be there etc. I guess I need to tear my engine apart and recheck everything as I had a shop do everything. I don't want any problems. Also what break in grease or not do I use for cam and rockers if any. I have always in the past put grease on the cam shift then drain after break in. Now back to the thread I see what dvw is saying and I agree those valves didn't just happen talk to the shop for some kind of fix.
 
I believe a stock pushrod link is 9.315. The ones I used are 9.250 maybe that could have been the issue..
 
Don't know about what the lifter preload is supposed to be these days but not too long ago, it was around .060,,,,,and I usually went for less. IMO, you need to tear into that engine if you rounded off a cam lobe and check the bearings and get rid of the fine particles that circulated throughout the engine because of the failed lifter and rounded cam lobe. Have you cut open the oil filter to see what's in it?
 
I believe a stock pushrod link is 9.315. The ones I used are 91/4

Don't know about what the lifter preload is supposed to be these days but not too long ago, it was around .060,,,,,and I usually went for less. IMO, you need to tear into that engine if you rounded off a cam lobe and check the bearings and get rid of the fine particles that circulated throughout the engine because of the failed lifter and rounded cam lobe. Have you cut open the oil filter to see what's in it?
See the pictures in post number one. That is a camera that shows the lobe on the cam. It's not completely rounded off at all, just a little metal transfer and it's only on one lifter
 
See the pictures in post number one. That is a camera that shows the lobe on the cam. It's not completely rounded off at all, just a little metal transfer and it's only on one lifter
Metal in the engine even if a little needs to be investigated.....taking off a main cap or two isn't that much work to see what's what. I like to start in the rear mains.
 
Those valve stems didn't wear like that at start up. They were like that from install. Who did the valve job?
Doug

Those valve stems didn't wear like that at start up. They were like that from install. Who did the valve job?
Doug
Does everyone agree that my setup didn't put a bevel on a couple valve stems?
 
In general I'm at a complete loss why mopars wipe out cams and lifters at break in I did some schooling. I guess it's the cheap metal etc that we have to buy these days.
I resent that remark! Cheap metal-whatever that is- has been around forever, the problem is that many companies go abroad without specifying exactly what they want and settle for inferior products. A little internet research is needed on their lazy butts.
 
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