535 supercharged first start up... Didn't go so well. thoughts needed?

[HawkRod]

Not to hijack the thread but need schooling on bushing of the lifter bores. What tolerance should be there etc. I guess I need to tear my engine apart and recheck everything as I had a shop do everything. I don't want any problems. Also what break in grease or not do I use for cam and rockers if any. I have always in the past put grease on the cam shift then drain after break in. Now back to the thread I see what dvw is saying and I agree those valves didn't just happen talk to the shop for some kind of fix.

Lube up the lifter with assembly lube and stick it in the hole. It should, just by gravity, fall out the bottom of the lifter bore. I put my finger below the bore, beneath the base circle of the cam. Then I let the lifter "fall" onto my finger. Push it back up, spin it and do it again. Do this several times and if it floats freely, you are fine. If you feel any little burr or something that catches the lifter that is bad.

If the cam is installed and you don't feel like removing it, I guess you could just let the lifter drop to the base circle of the cam and test them that way.

Bottom line is flat tappet cam lifters must spin. The spinning action helps create the oil film that the lifter rides on. The cam lobe is actually tapered to cause this. If a lifter doesn't spin, you'll have trouble in a hurry. Startup also requires zinc in the oil. The zinc gets embedded in the metal of the cam and creates a type of lubrication. But more zinc is not better. Go for 1500 to 2000 PPM of zinc. Too much zinc makes the oil acidic which is bad too. Any of the good break in oils should be fine.

 

[63dodge440]

Lube up the lifter with assembly lube and stick it in the hole. It should, just by gravity, fall out the bottom of the lifter bore. I put my finger below the bore, beneath the base circle of the cam. Then I let the lifter "fall" onto my finger. Push it back up, spin it and do it again. Do this several times and if it floats freely, you are fine. If you feel any little burr or something that catches the lifter that is bad.

If the cam is installed and you don't feel like removing it, I guess you could just let the lifter drop to the base circle of the cam and test them that way.

Bottom line is flat tappet cam lifters must spin. The spinning action helps create the oil film that the lifter rides on. The cam lobe is actually tapered to cause this. If a lifter doesn't spin, you'll have trouble in a hurry. Startup also requires zinc in the oil. The zinc gets embedded in the metal of the cam and creates a type of lubrication. But more zinc is not better. Go for 1500 to 2000 PPM of zinc. Too much zinc makes the oil acidic which is bad too. Any of the good break in oils should be fine.

I will be changing the cam and lifters going to a roller cam and roller lifters but I will check the lifter bore as you said. That was my plan that I was kind of concerned about. The valve stems in the past post has a little taper on it on just a couple of them and people who responded said that there's nothing that would have caused that it had to been already done at the machine shop

 

[bearman]

Lifter bushings are they a spiral groove or just straight cut oval.

 

[63dodge440]

Whatever factory is. When I got the block back from the machine shop he said everything was good to go using factory stuff

 

[not so famous bob]

I believe a stock pushrod link is 9.315. The ones I used are 9.250 maybe that could have been the issue..

get a pushrod checker and check them ur self , have those valves touched up by some one that knows what there doing...jmo

 

[63dodge440]

get a pushrod checker and check them ur self , have those valves touched up by some one that knows what there doing...jmo

Thanks

 

[63dodge440]

Here is a better picture. So what do you think caused that. The rocker arms don't have a scratch on them.

 

[HawkRod]

Is it just me or do the springs look too big for the valve spring retainers?

 

[HawkRod]

I will be changing the cam and lifters going to a roller cam and roller lifters but I will check the lifter bore as you said. That was my plan that I was kind of concerned about. The valve stems in the past post has a little taper on it on just a couple of them and people who responded said that there's nothing that would have caused that it had to been already done at the machine shop

Roller lifters won't spin, so you really don't have to check much. If you feel a burr when you install them take care of it. Otherwise, not much to worry about.

 

[63dodge440]

I'm using the factory stamp still rocker arm assembly. Do you think that? Bevel on the valve stem will cause an issue. I still don't know how it got there. I don't see how the rockers could have done it

 

[HawkRod]

I'm using the factory stamp still rocker arm assembly. Do you think that? Bevel on the valve stem will cause an issue. I still don't know how it got there. I don't see how the rockers could have done it

Hard to tell what will happen. The hardened surface on the rockers is actually very thin, so once you wear through that you will wear a hole in the rocker very quickly. Perhaps document what your rockers look like (take pictures of each that are opening valve stems with bevels). I'd assemble them but check them every few hundred miles, especially at first. If you notice the rocker surface getting chewed up then you will need to replace the rocker and fix the valve issue. But it may be fine too.

 

[63dodge440]

Hard to tell what will happen. The hardened surface on the rockers is actually very thin, so once you wear through that you will wear a hole in the rocker very quickly. Perhaps document what your rockers look like (take pictures of each that are opening valve stems with bevels). I'd assemble them but check them every few hundred miles, especially at first. If you notice the rocker surface getting chewed up then you will need to replace the rocker and fix the valve issue. But it may be fine too.

Any thoughts on what might have caused that. It's only on like three two on one side and one on the other side. I don't see how the stamp still factory rocker arms could have done that but I've been wrong before lol

 

[HawkRod]

Any thoughts on what might have caused that. It's only on like three two on one side and one on the other side. I don't see how the stamp still factory rocker arms could have done that but I've been wrong before lol

Like others said, I doubt that occurred from running the engine.

 

[63dodge440]

Like others said, I doubt that occurred from running the engine.

Thanks

 

[RemCharger]

Here is a better picture. So what do you think caused that. The rocker arms don't have a scratch on them.

View attachment 1474645

Looks like the put a bigger bevel on it when resurfacing the tip. Not really a deal breaker with a lower sized cam.
But more valve action with a roller cam and stamped rockers? Hard to say.

 

[63dodge440]

Looks like the put a bigger bevel on it when resurfacing the tip. Not really a deal breaker with a lower sized cam.
But more valve action with a roller cam and stamped rockers? Hard to say.

Thank you. I talked to my machine guy today and he said that those valves were like that when they put when they got them. They're stainless steel Chevy 202 valves. He said sometimes exhaust valves are like that

 

[007]

Ground off a burr on the stem.

 

[63dodge440]

The Big spring is my current spring. Does it look like a stock spring? The little spring is what I was told to add to the big screen to give me a total of a hundred and 25 lb on the spring. The little spring is 15 PSI

 

[65CopCar]

Do I understand that you have a 535 cubic inch motor? To me factory rockers are a bad idea for a motor that big. You want proper lash so in my book adjustable rockers is what I would be going with.

I don't know how mild or wild this motor is, but my experience with a hydraulic roller cam in a fairly mild 440 was not positive (car went low 13's at 4000 lbs). Problem is that mopar big block hydraulic rollers are heavy and have a hard time pumping up at any real rpm. The heavy roller necessitates a fairly heavy spring and heavy springs can hurt reliability. I learned that with the hydraulic roller you want to run as thin an oil that you can get away with.

I bought a Lunati kit that included the springs. I only ran the car down the track a few times before I put the original 383 back in it. Basically the motor wanted to rev and was quite happy going past 6000 rpm, but right around 6000 rpm I floated the valves. If I run a hydraulic roller again, I will limit rpm to around 5800 rpm.

On my street/strip 713 hp/707 torque GTX motor, I went with a mechanical roller.

 

[65CopCar]

Also with the roller lifters, expect to have to grind for pushrod clearance if the heads are not already clearanced. The roller lifter is much taller and changes the angle of the pushrod which causes interference. At least it did with my 906 heads - I had to do quite a bit of clearancing for the hyd roller install.