6 pack guru's please help

[polywideblock]

just purchased a complete 6 pack for the 440 in 71 charger steel "air grabber" air cleaner and all ,its the real deal cast iron intake etc even has the idle solenoid(broken) with a new in the box replacement centre carb because someone has removed the breather linkage ect off the centre one on the manifold and a repo solenoid . what I need to know is where to get info to set it up so it will run when I bolt it on. have the 6 pack primer(six pack tuning) but have since seen several people say its not accurate and to disregard it . so to put it simply need info for the mechanic to set it up so it will run . have already walked away from one who wanted to replace linkage with a "progressive" one . yeah he was a chevy guy
so where do I get info from if the info on the net is wrong ?
I know this is the A12 bit but seems all the 6 pack guys are here , please help

 

[493 Mike]

just purchased a complete 6 pack for the 440 in 71 charger steel "air grabber" air cleaner and all ,its the real deal cast iron intake etc even has the idle solenoid(broken) with a new in the box replacement centre carb because someone has removed the breather linkage ect off the centre one on the manifold and a repo solenoid . what I need to know is where to get info to set it up so it will run when I bolt it on. have the 6 pack primer(six pack tuning) but have since seen several people say its not accurate and to disregard it . so to put it simply need info for the mechanic to set it up so it will run . have already walked away from one who wanted to replace linkage with a "progressive" one . yeah he was a chevy guy
so where do I get info from if the info on the net is wrong ?
I know this is the A12 bit but seems all the 6 pack guys are here , please help

Hi Poly,
Is this a stock spec tribute project or is it a modified engine? If stock-the factory specs will work. The DC manuals have recommendations for modifying the carbs also.
Mike

 

[66Satellite47]

What year is the setup? My 70 carbs worked the best (I had 69, 70, 71 carbs over the years). Stock jetting, but pull the end carb idle plugs & adjust those (richened about about 1/4 turn) which made a real improvement in my launch. I used the aluminum intake, not sure if the iron setup likes something different. Keep the vacumn secondaries, just adjust the springs, with the available kits.

 

[lewtot184]

if your referring to the moparts 6pak tuning guide avoid it like the plague! don't try to re-engineer the carbs! keep the vacuum linkage,pods, etc. use yellow springs in the pods. use 64 jets in the center carb. open up the lead plugs covering the mixture screws in the end carbs, turn them clockwise until lightly seated and then back them off counter clockwise at least 1/2 turn and they may need 3/4 turn for smooth idle. the real problem with the carbs is lean calibration and the main culprit is the center carb main metering (easy jet change fix) and the idle feed tube orifice being too small in relationship to the idle air bleed (not an easy fix but doable).

 

[Car Nut]

Call Six Pack Performance out of New Mexico.


http://www.sixpackperformance.net/

Oh you know the drill

 

[polywideblock]

will get some better pics soon , yes will be a "stock" appearing set up . last pic is of it in the 71 charger that it came off ( owner didn't like it described it as "brutal" like a switch on or off ) 70 casting date on manifold, centre carb HAD the weird linkage to vent fuel bowl but has been modified(removed) that's why a "new in the box" replacement came with setup ,use new carb or use parts off new to fix original ?. and yes it is the moparts 6pack tuning guide says "put black springs in outboard carbs" . thanks for the replies please remember I'm in Australia and no-one that tunes cars has seen one!!! their as "in the dark as I am" ,that's why I'm trying to get as much info as possible to pass along when fitting it

 

[PurpleBeeper]

I have to basically agree with Lewtot184 & Car Nut. I've run six packs for 30+ yrs. and FINALLY figured out that they run best just about "stock", so I suggest you start out 100% stock (you can find info on the web pretty easy) and adjust MODERATELY & only as needed from there. It's definitely a good idea to remove the lead plugs at the base of the outer carbs so you can tune the idle mixture (basically like a 4 bbl. Holley with some minor differences), but be aware that most of the used carbs I've had (4 sets) have those little idle mixture screws stuck. In the past, I messed up several 6-pack carbs using the Direct Connection tuning suggestions....go stock for sure (or very, very close). I've been out to see the Six Pack Performance guys a couple times in Albequerque (sp?), New Mexico and they for sure know what they're doing. Also, Corvette Carburetor (or something like that) out of Chicago has a TON of six pack carb parts (very similar to 427 tri-power setups). You're right that progressive linkages should not be used unless you had a "triple pumper" set of race carbs (which you don't). That little vent/lever on the center carb is what most of them came with, but if you have the valve on the center carb fuel bowl (& don't have a California emission setup) you can just let it vent to the air.

 

[Daves69]

.......... Also, Corvette Carburetor (or something like that) out of Chicago has a TON of six pack carb parts (very similar to 427 tri-power setups). ..............

Also known as Chicago Carburetor and sells on Ebay too..........
http://www.chicagocarburetor.com/carburetor-parts.php?c=2354

 

[RestifiedBee]

just purchased a complete 6 pack for the 440 in 71 charger steel "air grabber" air cleaner and all ,its the real deal cast iron intake etc even has the idle solenoid(broken) with a new in the box replacement centre carb because someone has removed the breather linkage ect off the centre one on the manifold and a repo solenoid . what I need to know is where to get info to set it up so it will run when I bolt it on. have the 6 pack primer(six pack tuning) but have since seen several people say its not accurate and to disregard it . so to put it simply need info for the mechanic to set it up so it will run . have already walked away from one who wanted to replace linkage with a "progressive" one . yeah he was a chevy guy
so where do I get info from if the info on the net is wrong ?
I know this is the A12 bit but seems all the 6 pack guys are here , please help

http://a12mopar.com/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1398047559/0

 

[RestifiedBee]

go to the link I posted above. The A12 Playground. Follow what they've done. I bought the metering plates from Promax Peformance. They use Holley jets, the rear base plate is designed so you can adjust the idle mixture screws with carb installed and with their metering plate for the middle carb, you can't blow a power valve. I also had to get phelonic spacers from HotRodCarbs.com-the (pump)gas in the carbs was boiling out when I would shut it off

 

[Garys1969RR]

I am using a six pack set up I bought new from someone who had it sitting in original boxes for 12 years! I used everything just as it came out of the box, no jet or spring changes. It all works great! I am at 5200 feet, so the apparently lean center carb works fine up here. I do get a brief hesitation when the secondaries open, but I don't mind it at all. Actually I kinda like it! I think they come with the yellow springs, and some guys say to go to the black (slower opening) springs. I'm good with the way they came from Holley.

 

[Garys1969RR]

Also, I may have a new idle solenoid and bracket if you're looking for one. I didn't install mine. Message me if interested.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

My first suggestion is if you gotta tell the guy who you are paying to work on it how to set it up you may as well do it yourself. There's plenty of info out there including books. Clean fuel supply is very important. We always run either sintered bronze filters in the bowls or inline with the fuel supply to the carbs. Use new Holley parts only, gaskets, & Needle and seats, etc. if the motor is stock then it shouldn't be too hard. If you have a large cam, jacked up distributor, etc, it may take some work.

 

[oldbee]

In my limited experience the sintered bronze filters are the best way to go, Holleys dislike dirt/grit in a hurry.

 

[hashmaker]

I installed a six pack on my last build this year. The Promax base for the rear carb is an absolute, it allows mixture adjustment without removing the carb. I bought the metering plates as well but after reading all I can find in this forum the base jetting seems to work well as recommended, 66 in the center and 85 in the out boards. I am using the factory yellow springs. With Trick flow heads and a Lunati hydraulic Roller it has impressive zoom, zoom, zoom. Depending on your heads and cam you may want to start with 64's in the center carb.

 

[polywideblock]

thanks for the replies
motor is basically stock with a comp 268 h cam ,well that's what I was told anyway . came with cam card for the 268 h cam. has a new idle solenoid with it ,do I need this ? how to set it up ? went to link that's the 6 pack tuning tips that I have( recognised the use the black spring ,use the black spring ,use the black spring) people are saying not to use it ?

 

[66Satellite47]

Never used the solenoid. Near stock jetting worked for me, on my '69, '70 & '71 carbs. The '70's were the best for whatever reason. As I recall just bumped the center carb up two sizes, adjusted the end carb idle screws to get a smooth transition, tried the various end carb springs to find out which worked best. Mine was a drag strip only application.

 

[493 Mike]

The solenoid was used to prevent "after run/dieseling" on OEM systems. I don't need one either.

 

[biomedtechguy]

For my lightly modded 71 440 in my 70 V code Roadrunner, the biggest improvements in performance came when I got the center and outboard carbs idle mixture screws tuned correctly, the outboard linkage was a little sticky when I first got the car but a slight adjustment of the rods that are on the driver's side fixed that, went to #65 jets in the center carb (I'm at sea level) and I have a 509 lift 292° duration purple stripe cam with headers, 4 speed and a 3.54 Dana, and a FBO ignition system helped too vs the Chrysler electronic ignition.
Good luck!

 

[lewtot184]

thanks for the replies
motor is basically stock with a comp 268 h cam ,well that's what I was told anyway . came with cam card for the 268 h cam. has a new idle solenoid with it ,do I need this ? how to set it up ? went to link that's the 6 pack tuning tips that I have( recognised the use the black spring ,use the black spring ,use the black spring) people are saying not to use it ?

black springs are an absolute no-no. i think the black spring thing comes from the moparts rubbish. the only time to use the brown or black spring is when the kill bleeds are blocked, which is another no-no.

most folks are familiar with all the holley "tune-up/performance" books but there was one done by holley back in the late '60's; when holley was holley. they did a test on vacuum secondary opening rates on a hipo big block chevy with a vacuum secondary holley 4bbl, probably a 780vs. they gave the full opening of the secondaries by rpm. the single black spring never fully opened at wide open throttle and this was with an engine that can make power with a carb that only had about 6.25sqin's of venturi area. if one tries to use their head on this and apply it to a 6pak it's easy to see how stupid two black springs, with a pair of vacuum pods that are probably quadruple the volume of one 4bbl pod, will never work. i've tested different springs at the track. for every step heavier in spring rate than the yellows the car will slow down about a tenth in the 1/4 mile. anything heavier than purple springs is a true power loss. i also don't buy into any of the gadjet accessories marketed. don't try to re-enginneer the carbs. they are not race carbs but a true street/strip dual purpose set-up, and in my opinion the absolute best big block intake carb set-up for performance.