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67 Charger Exhaust...Question...Best Method

mr carl

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Hello All.....ready for exhaust for my 67 Charger. I have read several pieces on the TTI exhaust system and am wondering if this is a better way to go versus a custom exhaust that is approx. $1200 in my area. I do have ceramic coated JEG's headers. If I can save $400 bucks and do the install myself I am up for it........just wanted some advise from the guys who have done it. Please advise.

carl

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IF this is a street car, how loud do you want the exhaust to be? Pick your mufflers & determine how stock you want the exhaust to be. Unless this is an all-out track car, I'd bet your Jegs headers are just fine (assuming they fit without too much issue).

I'm personally not concerned about "being original", but you can get 2-1/4" reproduction tail pipes & mufflers from Walker pretty cheap. They're quiet-ish & what I'm running now. I put the headers on myself & had a muffler shop make a couple pieces of pipe to connect the headers with the Walker tailpipes/muffers.

Before that, I ran "pigtail" exhaust with Hush Thrush (or any brand) of "turbo mufflers" which are pretty loud. The pipes bend out (preferably at a 45-degree angle instead of 90-degree) right in front of the back tires. This is the cheapest street-legal exhaust. Cherry Bombs are super loud & would fit in there too.

There are more "up-scale" mufflers out there (cost more, but "might" perform better). You can buy or have a muffler shop build you a cross-over pipe. If you don't sit in traffic (exhaust fumes), don't care about noise & don't have to pass inspection, then "dumps" (aka header mufflers with just about 6" of turn-down pipe) is the cheapest.

As for installing headers, get the car WAY UP in the air, even higher in the front, and expect to have to unbolt the motor mounts (normally just one side at a time) to wiggle the headers in from underneath. Header bolts instead of the studs help with clearance to get the headers in. Also, with headers, you can cut down the exhaust manifold studs about 1/2" which also helps with clearance getting them installed.

Hope This Helps.
 
Custom exhaust, is all I use on my cars.
 
Carl,

I read some of your other posts on the loss of your son, a terrible tragedy.
I’m sure you miss him every day.
I don't think you mentioned if it's a small block or a big block?
If it is a big block with power steering it's not an easy job particularly on the driver’s side.
I just did it on a 66 satellite and it had clearance problems, not fun.

If you have a big block, I would suggest 68-69 high performance cast iron manifolds, an H-pipe and hemi mufflers. It will sound nice have good flow, be fairly quiet inside and you won’t have any problems with headers leaking etc… I think you can order the h-pipe and everything back from Accurate and specify the 68-69 flange orientation. Make sure to specify if it’s a 383 or 440 because it makes a difference on the head pipe (about ¾” taller on the 440).

I have stainless super bee square tips on mine they were custom I cut off the turn downs. You can get them fairly cheap on E-bay.

The tailpipes need to be correct because there is little room between the frame rails and the big flat gas tank. Othewise they will clatter on the springs or somewhere else. I have tailpipes from Accurate and they are aluminized I think. Look great and I think they are at least 15 years old. My only complaint was the turn downs were ahead of the bumper (I think that was the stock arrangement).

Headers on the small block it might not be quite as bad but if it’s a poly 318 “A” engine they are fairly wide. Never worked on one so I really can’t offer much there.


Best of luck with your project. That is a beautiful charger, love the red.
 
The engine is a 383....complete rebuild .030" over...performer intake. The engine and drive train were all installed late last year.....and getting the headers on in this car was a real experience. I can tell you I had the engine bolted in place and removed a minimum of three times before getting it all together. Headers fit fine. This install was nothing like my SB 73 Cuda.

I was leaning toward the 3" exhaust. And my concern here was the fit of the pre-bent tubes versus the custom exhaust. As stated, there is not much room. Looking for a not to loud rumble, but know it is a MOPAR when going down the road...lol

Funny thing about my son....if he were here he would just put shorty mufflers on the headers with turn downs and the louder the better.....lol...and yes I do miss him.

thanks guys for the inputs....very much appreciated.

Carl


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I did the tti header and exhaust install in my A body a ‘67 Cuda w/a 360/904 combo. The 2-1/2 pipes fit very well and according to others that have done the 3 inch system, while tight, it did fit well.

My particular kit was the X pipe which needs a trim for perfect fit only at the X pipe. The pipes off the headers collector were trimmed to the shortest possible length and it fit great.

If you yourself go this route, don’t be afraid of the 3 inch exhaust pipes and muffler as to loud. The mufflers with these kits are from Dyno Max and there super turbos. The 3 inch exhaust system kit uses the slightly longer mufflers.The X pipe knocks down the exhaust note and tone a shade and the actual dB level makes even be a shade quiter. I can only compare this next to my Cuda of a similar engine set up in my ‘73 Cuda.

I suggest a helping hand with the headers with someone with experience behind them. Also the exhaust pipes, while I did this job myself, would help if there was a second set of hands.

The extension pipes off the header collector in your case will have to be thought about before cutting.

Get the nose of the car as high as possible for the headers, use a hoist to move/tilt engine,
I Use 2 jack stands to support the front of the car and the rear tires on a ramp to install the exhaust. The rear tires on the ramps help simulate the car at rest on the ground. This help a lot with pipe placement/ clearance.
 
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Did a 3" TTI on my 65 Dodge Coronet fit no problem. Mufflers That is where you need to look at carefully. I put Dronemaster 50 series they are noisy. Ins
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tall from back of car and don't fully tighten until finished. I did an H-pipe and because I didn't use TTI headers had a little length of pipe to connect crossover pipe. I didn't want pipe clamps all over the place ( 2 on crossover pipe and 1 one each reducer so I tack welded all that together on the car. Removed h-pipe and welded the joints. The pipes will need trimming as you go but it wasn't hard.
 
Yes! The instructions tell you to start from the be rear of the car and work forwards to the header. I have found this the best and honestly the easiest way to install an exhaust system. I have done it this way on several cars.
 
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