68 RM23 Roadrunner, The rebuild of an old friend

[hunt2elk]

Not sure what you mean by direct replacement Elk. Everything bolted up just fine.
Here's the part, "up to 11" QuickTime RM-6073 QuickTime Bellhousings | Summit Racing

Wow, I just noticed that the price went up by $150 since I bought mine maybe 6 months ago. Crazy **** these days.

Both my B Bodies have motors putting out about 600hp. I'm using stock 11 inch cast bellhousings with 143 tooth flywheels. I know this is my weak link and should probably look at doing something different. I was just wondering if the QT was a direct bolt and go using stock clutch fork, pivot bracket, z-bar, starter, and driveshaft. I see it wouldn't fit my flywheels however.

 

[blue69runner]

Smart looking motor. Should look quite well in the car.

 

[Runner 68]

Have you indicated the bore yet? If not you should...

I just posted this in another thread but it belongs here too...

Did you get the standard bell housing? Or the Quick Time bell?
Local guy bought the Q/T bell & it wound up being over .060 out of alignment... I machined custom offset dowels to get if in the ballpark... Then the bolt holes needed to be opened up... He scrapped the Q/T & bought a regular bell, it was within .006 out of the box..

Yes, it's a Quicktime, we indexed it. .004" out of the box as stated earlier. The pic of few posts above that has the back covered with tape so I could mark and write measurements. I had to make a small steel plate to mount over the center of the flywheel as the dial indicator magnet doesn't work too well on aluminum. I had read that they were better than the Lakewoods out of the box. This one didn't disappoint.
Actually I think Holley owns Lakewood too now. Some of the paper work had Lakewood logos on it. Maybe they always have, I don't know.

Both my B Bodies have motors putting out about 600hp. I'm using stock 11 inch cast bellhousings with 143 tooth flywheels. I know this is my weak link and should probably look at doing something different. I was just wondering if the QT was a direct bolt and go using stock clutch fork, pivot bracket, z-bar, starter, and driveshaft. I see it wouldn't fit my flywheels however.

The only thing I had to do was bore out the hole for the z-bar ball stud. The hole was in the correct location just not big enough and not threaded like a stock BH. Had to cut the threads back then nut it on the backside. I contacted Holley about it. I'm not the first to run into this issue. Time will tell if the Z-bar will line up but all of my measurements say it will. We'll see. So far no other problems. They come with two different adapter rings depending on the size of the tranny input bearing and two different clutch fork brackets. The only thing I don't like about it is that if you need to replace the clutch, you have pull the whole unit off the motor. Pain in the @ss. I suppose it's a minor inconvenience compared to cutting the car in half or my legs off. I didn't use the hardware that came with it, I put ARPs all the way around. Can't speak to using a stock driveline until the whole mess is in the car. I plan on having one made anyway. No concern there.

They seal up pretty tight. I bored a 1/4" hole in the very bottom so I could detect a rear main leak more readily rather than have oil pool in the bottom of it. No clutch fork boot. Holley said it's better to leave it open for cooling. In my research I haven't found where anybody has run into getting excessive debris inside. No gravel roads for this car. Again, time will tell.

 

[CudaChick1968]

Too fabulous not to share! The Powder **** fans dig it already too. Be proud Brian!!

 

[Runner 68]

Too fabulous not to share! The Powder **** fans dig it already too. Be proud Brian!!

View attachment 1532256

Do you remember when we were debating the powder color for the valve covers? You sent me three samples and I picked one while we were on the phone in about 5 minutes.
I said it was close enough. You said, "Are you sure?"
I don't think we could have matched the UU1 Frost Blue any closer with powder. Were we wrong?

I had BAER coat the calipers in the same color. Perfect.

Thank you for the assist Leanna and great service!

 

[Runner 68]

The Passon 833-18 spline showed up last Thursday. Jaimie is a great guy to work with. It stabbed in like a Lego.
All prepped to shove the whole mess in this Saturday. Wish us luck.

 

[Runner 68]

It was a milestone day last Saturday. We were able to stab the engine and tranny without incident. I was a little nervous to be sure.


.

 

[HawkRod]

It was a milestone day last Saturday. We were able to stab the engine and tranny without incident. I was a little nervous to be sure.


.View attachment 1545507View attachment 1545508View attachment 1545509View attachment 1545510View attachment 1545511View attachment 1545512View attachment 1545513View attachment 1545514

Awesome! That's a major milestone for sure. That is such a nice way to install (or remove) a driveline, because it is nice and controlled AND you can mount engine accessories without fighting the tight confines of the engine compartment.

Looks great!

 

[Runner 68]

Awesome! That's a major milestone for sure. That is such a nice way to install (or remove) a driveline, because it is nice and controlled AND you can mount engine accessories without fighting the tight confines of the engine compartment.

Looks great!

Thanks Hawk. I agree. I have never done that before it went as smooth as silk.
The good friend of mind that designed the specifics of the engine build, 73 years old and still races a 10 second wheel standing 65 Belvedere, had never done it that way before either. He is super intense about staying on top of the modern innovations of engine design. When we started this project he said "As long as you're writing the checks, I'll tell you what to buy". He didn't disappoint.

After the install he said thanks for letting me participate in the "proper" installation of a Mopar engine. Quite a compliment from a man of his experience. Always the gentleman and a well of knowledge with our cars. A Sage I suppose.

He's the wise looking one running the picker in the pic below.

 

[HawkRod]

^^^ This is what classic cars are all about: A bunch of guys getting together to wrench and enjoy some time together. Hopefully you guys shared a cold beverage when you were done as a reward for a job well done!

 

[Runner 68]

^^^ This is what classic cars are all about: A bunch of guys getting together to wrench and enjoy some time together. Hopefully you guys shared a cold beverage when you were done as a reward for a job well done!

Not that we haven't in the past. I typically shut down around 4:00, drink a frosty beverage or 6 and put tools away.
We started the install at 9:00 and finished at 10-10:30, a little to early for a beer this day.

 

[ckessel]

Just checked out your project. Awesome!

 

[Runner 68]

Got back to it after a few weeks. Life always seems to get in the way.
Transmission wiring as well was the engine compartment wiring buttoned up. I need to tighten up a little wiring inside then the dash goes in.
A 1.5" drop air cleaner base won't cut hood clearance with a 3" filter on the Trick Flow manifold. It just touches. A 2" filter will solve the problem.
Things will start happening quickly at this point.

 

[Runner 68]

Merry Christmas everyone.
Got the 26" radiator fitted into the 22" original support with relatively minor modifications and a little fabrication. The fans are tight but should work well. Dual 13 inchers. Note the stagger between the two fans for clearance. Will finish wiring them in after I enjoy a few days with the family.
Putting the dash in this week while my extra help is home for the Holidays. Once I get that all wired in, looking forward to firing the 500 in the car for the first time.
Happy Holidays all.

 

[whayden2003]

Merry Christmas sir. Looking good.

 

[Runner 68]

Inching away. Dash back in, hopefully for good. Testing every step of the way. All systems go so far.

Second pic below on left side of dash, left to right, electric trunk popper, electric header cut out switch, stereo subwoofer control.

Third pic below on the add on panel below the ignition switch, left to right, Dakota Digital manual interface switch, Memphis Audio headless stereo manual interface, line loc indicator light.

I should have the Dakota boxes wired up tomorrow. Stay tuned.

 

[Runner 68]

Pretty much buttoned up today.
The Dakota boxes took some time. Many wires but should be slick if I didn’t screw anything up. I need to repaint the under column cover to match the pad. The dash and pads are two slightly different colors by design. Not sure what I was thinking. The lower pad is original. The crack in the pad below the wiper switch is from my hand slipping off the shifter in a hard third gear bang and slugging the dash years ago.

The coil of wire on the floor is for the header cut outs. Cant wrap that up until the exhaust system is in.

**** below.

 

[HawkRod]

The crack in the pad below the wiper switch is from my hand slipping off the shifter in a hard third gear bang and slugging the dash years ago.

Oh my, an imperfection!!!

Seriously, I think small things like this actually add to a car rather than detract from it. The crack has a story, as does the car, and in my opinion it's cool to retain a bit of that when restoring a car.

Can't wait to see it on the road. Not sure where you are located, but if close enough, the old runner may have to make a trip to check it out when it's done!!!

 

[Richard Cranium]

What's the Pioneer knob for?

And this one next to the ashtray...

 

[Runner 68]

Oh my, an imperfection!!!

Seriously, I think small things like this actually add to a car rather than detract from it. The crack has a story, as does the car, and in my opinion it's cool to retain a bit of that when restoring a car.

Can't wait to see it on the road. Not sure where you are located, but if close enough, the old runner may have to make a trip to check it out when it's done!!!

Yes, my friends give me **** about that stuff too. Crap like that bugs me. I can't help the way I'm built. Part of the car's history I suppose. Your jab helps me accept it, thank you.

What's the Pioneer knob for?
View attachment 1581497


And this one next to the ashtray...
View attachment 1581496

Post 316 above RC.

"Second pic below on left side of dash, left to right, electric trunk popper, electric header cut out switch, stereo subwoofer control.

Third pic below on the add on panel below the ignition switch, left to right, Dakota Digital manual interface switch, Memphis Audio headless stereo manual interface, line loc indicator light."