That’s great.. So I should loosen all my lug nuts and re-torque them at 65 ft lbs like I was doing?
This “idiot” told me the “correct” way to determine if a rear end has a Sure-Grip in it without having to unbolt the casing and look inside it.
The method: With rear wheels off the ground, put transmission in neutral, rotate driveshaft by hand, if both wheels turn in the same direction, it has a Sure-Grip. This test confirmed I have a Sure-Grip differential..
Later today, I talked to a man local to me that professionally restores classic muscle cars including many Mopars. He confirmed this as being the most accurate Sure-Grip test. As opposed to just rotating one wheel by hand and checking if the other wheel rotates in the same or opposite direction.
In the case of my car, when rotating one wheel by hand, the other wheel rotates in the opposite direction. Which made me think my 8 3/4 rear had an open differential.
Two black marks on the road and both of the old rear tires being worn down equally to the point of almost being bald told me Sure-Grip. But I wasn’t convinced because of the rotate one wheel and watch what the other one does kind of test (Nick’s Garage claimed this rotate one wheel as being an accurate test by the way).
It becomes difficult to know who to believe? It’ll be interesting to see, on here, which one of those two tests you guys think is more accurate..
