It was not a factory AC car, but the wife does want it so at some point I'll have to look at adding it. I've seen others post about getting a classic air system to add on, but not sure how they work as far as what is needed under dash just yet.
69 Roadrunner - For the Boss
- Thread starter EJL
- Start date
They are self contained. No, that is not a factory bolt for that, it looks more like a ground or mounting bolt into sheet metal
Haven’t worked on the car for a while. Joined two golf leagues so that will take up some free time this summer.
I did pull off passenger fender as I saw some rust bubbling through the e coat. Come to find out there was a previous repair that wasn’t as clean as it should have been. Had to remove fender to radiator support bracket, but I was able to remove and patch rotted area.
All in all I think it turned out pretty good. Most of it gets hidden when the bracket goes back on, but I wanted it to look somewhat professional, LOL.
I did pull off passenger fender as I saw some rust bubbling through the e coat. Come to find out there was a previous repair that wasn’t as clean as it should have been. Had to remove fender to radiator support bracket, but I was able to remove and patch rotted area.
All in all I think it turned out pretty good. Most of it gets hidden when the bracket goes back on, but I wanted it to look somewhat professional, LOL.
I put the car on the back burner for a while. In addition to playing a lot of golf this summer, I’m also working to get the floor poured in my other building. I built the 60x80 building almost two years ago and the boss finally gave me the green light to put the floor in.
Since I’m putting radiant heat in the slab it’s requiring a lot more prep work. Got my brothers to help get the stone to grade.
Then I started putting down plastic sheeting for moisture barrier and then 2” foam. Fortunately I have a family friend who does commercial roofing and was able to get me some used foam sheets to save some money. I did have to buy some new sheet, but every little bit helps.
I just finished putting all the foam down and will put down mesh next to hold the tubing in place. If all goes as planned the floor will be poured by the end of July.
Since I’m putting radiant heat in the slab it’s requiring a lot more prep work. Got my brothers to help get the stone to grade.
Then I started putting down plastic sheeting for moisture barrier and then 2” foam. Fortunately I have a family friend who does commercial roofing and was able to get me some used foam sheets to save some money. I did have to buy some new sheet, but every little bit helps.
I just finished putting all the foam down and will put down mesh next to hold the tubing in place. If all goes as planned the floor will be poured by the end of July.
Man has the summer flown by. With getting the floor in the new building, two different golf leagues and totally replacing the deck on the back of the house the warm days are pretty much gone.
Here’s some pics of the finished floor in the new building. Already starting to fill the space with the cars my brother and I are hoarding.
I finally got back into the other building to start on the roadrunner again. I got the engine and tranny put together and mounted on k member. Also mounted the swap cross member bracket.
Then we started to install in car to see what floor pan interferences we have to deal with. Before install, I did grind off unneeded tabs on top of tranny case for clearance.
Surprisingly, the only interference is the vent tube on top of the tranny and the stock cable bracket. There’s plenty of room between engine and firewall as well.
Based on what I’ve read I assumed I would have to cut out a large section of the tunnel but that’s not the case at all. I’m assuming I’m not going to be able to use the stock cable anyway due to it being too long so I probably can fabricate a new bracket that will clear the floor pan.
I need to make clearance for vent tube and then it should bolt the rest of the way in. Once confirmed I can start working to get the car on rotisserie to start finish bodywork.
More updates to come…..
Here’s some pics of the finished floor in the new building. Already starting to fill the space with the cars my brother and I are hoarding.
I finally got back into the other building to start on the roadrunner again. I got the engine and tranny put together and mounted on k member. Also mounted the swap cross member bracket.
Then we started to install in car to see what floor pan interferences we have to deal with. Before install, I did grind off unneeded tabs on top of tranny case for clearance.
Surprisingly, the only interference is the vent tube on top of the tranny and the stock cable bracket. There’s plenty of room between engine and firewall as well.
Based on what I’ve read I assumed I would have to cut out a large section of the tunnel but that’s not the case at all. I’m assuming I’m not going to be able to use the stock cable anyway due to it being too long so I probably can fabricate a new bracket that will clear the floor pan.
I need to make clearance for vent tube and then it should bolt the rest of the way in. Once confirmed I can start working to get the car on rotisserie to start finish bodywork.
More updates to come…..
It’s been slow pr as of late, but I’m trying to get back on the project.
We ended up making a custom 90 degree vent tube fitting for the top of the trans to solve the clearance issue. I also believe the trans cable isn’t used so removing that along with bracket resolves that issue.
we moved onto mocking up a bracket for mounting the electronic gas pedal. It’s tricky trying to figure out the best angle for it without limiting the travel of the pedal. Here’s a few pics of our first pass on that.
Im also working on mocking up what needs to be done to mount the electronic shifter. The OE center console bracket can’t be used as it interferes with the position of the new shifter. I’ll have to make another custom bracket for that as well so more pics to come once that is figured out.
Im still looking for better ideas on where to run engine and trans wiring harness through firewall. Been reviewing multiple threads on this site trying to confirm what others have done and most don’t really show where they punched a hole that doesn’t interfere with under dash components. I don’t want to mount everything in engine bay as I believe it makes things look a little cluttered, just my opinion.
We ended up making a custom 90 degree vent tube fitting for the top of the trans to solve the clearance issue. I also believe the trans cable isn’t used so removing that along with bracket resolves that issue.
we moved onto mocking up a bracket for mounting the electronic gas pedal. It’s tricky trying to figure out the best angle for it without limiting the travel of the pedal. Here’s a few pics of our first pass on that.
Im also working on mocking up what needs to be done to mount the electronic shifter. The OE center console bracket can’t be used as it interferes with the position of the new shifter. I’ll have to make another custom bracket for that as well so more pics to come once that is figured out.
Im still looking for better ideas on where to run engine and trans wiring harness through firewall. Been reviewing multiple threads on this site trying to confirm what others have done and most don’t really show where they punched a hole that doesn’t interfere with under dash components. I don’t want to mount everything in engine bay as I believe it makes things look a little cluttered, just my opinion.
Wow now that was a bit of metal work! After the rusted parts were removed all you had left was a roof. I got off easy with mine, a few patch panels and fixing a bent frame rail. Huge difference in what state the car lived in for sure.
Good job look forward to seeing the finished product.
Good job look forward to seeing the finished product.
I was messing around with gas pedal mount again to see if I could improve position so I cut another piece and trialed some new bend positions. I think I like this one better. I had the wife come out and sit in the seat. She gave me the thumbs up so now I just need to box it in and weld the stubs in prior to welding it in permanently.
I also worked on welding and adjusting the center console brackets back into place since we had to replace floor pan. I had to make concessions for the electronic shifter along the way. The original console that came with the car had the *** end broken off, but good enough for aligning mounting holes. After seeing how much new consoles are I just might make a custom one and use the original mounting brackets to lock it down.
I also worked on welding and adjusting the center console brackets back into place since we had to replace floor pan. I had to make concessions for the electronic shifter along the way. The original console that came with the car had the *** end broken off, but good enough for aligning mounting holes. After seeing how much new consoles are I just might make a custom one and use the original mounting brackets to lock it down.
Bit more progress as of late. Boss gave me the green light to buy the new HVAC system so I could mock that up and see where I have clearances on firewall to route engine harness.
With that in place now we know where we can mount ECU between dash, HVAC and firewall.
Since I want to hide the engine harness as much as possible we decided to route it through the firewall right behind the intake. The connectors on the wire harness are rather large requiring a 2” grommet and hiding it was my goal.
A friend came up with the idea to modify the firewall so it’s close enough to engine that the injector and coil connectors reach inside passenger compartment. This reduces the amount of main harness that has to go inside the engine bay. So we cut out a section below wiper motor and bent & patched in a new piece.
Just need to punch the hole for the grommet now and then reinstall engine to test out harness fit.
I also bought the frame stiffeners. Starting to get them fit and welded in place.
With that in place now we know where we can mount ECU between dash, HVAC and firewall.
Since I want to hide the engine harness as much as possible we decided to route it through the firewall right behind the intake. The connectors on the wire harness are rather large requiring a 2” grommet and hiding it was my goal.
A friend came up with the idea to modify the firewall so it’s close enough to engine that the injector and coil connectors reach inside passenger compartment. This reduces the amount of main harness that has to go inside the engine bay. So we cut out a section below wiper motor and bent & patched in a new piece.
Just need to punch the hole for the grommet now and then reinstall engine to test out harness fit.
I also bought the frame stiffeners. Starting to get them fit and welded in place.
Made a little progress. Got the grommet put in and harness pulled through.
We put the engine back in and everything seems to marry up to engine connections. Only issue is oil pressure and MAT sensors don’t match plug connectors on harness. Had to order a different sensor for oil pressure as well as a different plug connector for MAT to splice into engine harness. Not sure why these are different but it’s slowing me down a bit.
We put the engine back in and everything seems to marry up to engine connections. Only issue is oil pressure and MAT sensors don’t match plug connectors on harness. Had to order a different sensor for oil pressure as well as a different plug connector for MAT to splice into engine harness. Not sure why these are different but it’s slowing me down a bit.
Getting back to the car now that summer activities are winding down. Engine and trans fitment is complete. Last item I wanted to confirm was if fresh air intake would fit without cutting a hole in inner fender. I had to modify K&N kit I bought, but it cleared without removing sheet metal.
We pulled engine and trans and set aside for later. I also test fit the condenser for classic air system and added holes that were needed in radiator support. I want to avoid adding holes after paint.
We moved onto test fitting trunk lid, quarters and extensions as I knew there was some extra work needed there. Trunk lid was tweaked at some point making it sit higher on one side versus the other. We had to adjust that and the ends of the quarters to get everything to line up better.
I ordered a new set of rear window trim clips so I can test fit the trim to ensure it looks right. Figured it would be easier to do that now before it goes on the rotisserie. Need the trim on to know where to put holes for trim that covers vinyl on top of quarter panel.
We pulled engine and trans and set aside for later. I also test fit the condenser for classic air system and added holes that were needed in radiator support. I want to avoid adding holes after paint.
We moved onto test fitting trunk lid, quarters and extensions as I knew there was some extra work needed there. Trunk lid was tweaked at some point making it sit higher on one side versus the other. We had to adjust that and the ends of the quarters to get everything to line up better.
I ordered a new set of rear window trim clips so I can test fit the trim to ensure it looks right. Figured it would be easier to do that now before it goes on the rotisserie. Need the trim on to know where to put holes for trim that covers vinyl on top of quarter panel.
Bought the Holley mid mount system for the engine. Decided to get everything swapped out to make sure I got everything. Didn’t want to wait and find out something was missing and it’s 6+ months after purchase and find out I’m screwed. Instructions were pretty straightforward and assembly was painless.
Intake didn’t need to come off for Holley system, but it was cracked when I bought engine so I replaced with new at the same time.
Intake didn’t need to come off for Holley system, but it was cracked when I bought engine so I replaced with new at the same time.
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