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'70 GTX front end upgrade

1970GTX

Well-Known Member
Local time
6:54 AM
Joined
Nov 13, 2012
Messages
614
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Location
Osoyoos, B.C.
I'd like to improve the handling on my '70 GTX, 440 4bbl, 727, 8 3/4 3.55 rear axle, stock rear springs. Nothing too drastic. This is strictly a street car, but I like to to some "spirited driving" from time to time, so some decent handling would be nice.
I'm thinking of a firm feel stage II power steering box, stiffeng plates on the lower control arms, and new .960 torsion bars. Any worn parts will be replaced and all new bushings etc. So for the suspension Gurus out there, any other suggestions for me? Bigger sway bar? Shocks? This is a numbers car so i want to maintain a stock appearance. Thanks in advance guys. DSCN3636.jpg
 
Thinking along the same lines for mine. One of the first things I'm looking at is a rear sway bar so the front doesn't have to try to do all the work.
 
first thing is first is that your car is BADASS. looking sexy.....i know its not cheap but i saw a show where they put a hotchkis setup front and rear on a older mopar and they said it was night and day. it did say there was different packages, of how much you wanted to spend. hope this helps. usarr
 
first thing is first is that your car is BADASS. looking sexy.....i know its not cheap but i saw a show where they put a hotchkis setup front and rear on a older mopar and they said it was night and day. it did say there was different packages, of how much you wanted to spend. hope this helps. usarr

Thanks usarr. I looked their stuff at Summit Racing. In reading through old threads, a lot is mentioned about rubber versus poly bushings. Some say new rubber ones work great and that with poly you feel every bump in the road. Around here the roads have room for improvement so I'm leaning towards rubber at the moment. Any body bought the front end tool kit from Mancini Racing. That will probably be my first purchase.
 
Subframe connectors and torque boxes supposedly do a lot to help these cars become more rigid and better handling. I plan to add these to my car when it gets restored, but can't speak from personal experience...
 
Thanks, Sub-frame connectors are on my list. Problem is that my car was undercoated from new, I love the way the weld in ones from U.S. Car Tool look after they are installed.
 
So the work has begun and laying on cold concrete for a couple of days makes me long for a hoist. I need to win the lottery so bad. The front end has been torn down and the parts are ordered. I already installed MP bolt on sub frame connectors, and road tested the car and the difference was amazing. I plan to have them welded in when the car goes in for alignment and is on the 4 post Got over $550.00 in parts coming from our friends at PST. Poly strut rod bushings and end links, new lower control arm shafts, ball joints upper and lower, 11/16" inner and outer tie rod ends and solid sleeves. I'm going with rubber lower control arm bushings and rubber offset upper control arm bushings. Having my LCA stiffened with PST's stiffening plates. Also new upper and lower bump stops. Think that's it for now. New torsion bars after Christmas. I'm planning on .960 torsion bars unless any one has a better idea. Time for a rum and coke, cheers.
 
Well she's done.
Firm feel stage II power steering box stock pitman and idler arms
New upper and lower ball joints from PST
New 11/16' inner and outer tie rod ends with solid sleeves from PST
LCAs stiffened by PST and my welder
New HD steel strut rods from Mancini Racing
MP .960 torsion bars from Summit Racing
All bushings replaced with moog rubber, including offsets in upper arms, LCA, strut rod, sway bar and end links
MP sub frame connectors
.75* neg. camber, 3.5* pos. caster, 1/8" toe in

What a difference. The ride is tight and stiff up front, less sway all around, car goes around corners like it's on rails. Really nice at highway speeds. The firm feel box is the biggest plus.

I'm not a mechanic, just a car guy who wanted to do this myself. I did with help from this forum, Mancini Racing's suspension tools, Firm Feel, PST, CBSA and some pain from lying on concrete all winter in Canada. Time to drive. see ya.
 
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Far too few details and photos in between your last two posts. :)

But it's good to hear that your car is back together and the steering and handling are what you like.
 
I'm restoring my 69 Coronet and will be upgrading the front suspension and brakes. Your post is a big help.
What kind of suspension tools did you need?
 
Well she's done.
Firm feel stage II power steering box stock pitman and idler arms
New upper and lower ball joints from PST
New 11/16' inner and outer tie rod ends with solid sleeves from PST
LCAs stiffened by PST and my welder
New HD steel strut rods from Mancini Racing
MP .960 torsion bars from Summit Racing
All bushings replaced with moog rubber, including offsets in upper arms, LCA, strut rod, sway bar and end links
MP sub frame connectors
.75* neg. camber, 3.5* pos. caster, 1/8" toe in

What a difference. The ride is tight and stiff up front, less sway all around, car goes around corners like it's on rails. Really nice at highway speeds. The firm feel box is the biggest plus.

I'm not a mechanic, just a car guy who wanted to do this myself. I did with help from this forum, Mancini Racing's suspension tools, Firm Feel, PST, CBSA and some pain from lying on concrete all winter in Canada. Time to drive. see ya.
What shocks did you use?
Factory sway bar still?
I am wanting to upgrade mine and always looking for ideas and feedback
 
Factory sway bar, original shocks but going to get some Bilstein's as soon as the budget allows. (property tax time coming up)
 
cool, I am thinking I need bigger torsion bars, i put new leafs and rear shocks in and that helped a bit, but the front end still rolls hard with its small block torsion bars trying to support the 440. I know a better sway bar would help too, but just don't have the money for both right now.
 
in that case I'd probably do the torsion bars first. Mp .960 bars are around $230.00 at Summit racing and free shipping
 
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