torredcuda
Well-Known Member
Back to cutting spot welds, this time on the front floor pan.
`70 road runner, FC7, 383, 727 It`s waited long enough, finally time to get it done.
- Thread starter torredcuda
- Start date
Ahhh... the joy of cutting spotwelds.
torredcuda
Well-Known Member
Mostly out, a little more to remove and clean up. Torsion bar cross member looks nice and solid.
6PKRTSE
Well-Known Member
I had to do the same to my 70 Roached Runner.
torredcuda
Well-Known Member
Finished removing the rest of it and got most of the clean up done, almost ready for the first test fit.
torredcuda
Well-Known Member
Dropped in pretty nicely although not fun trying to get it in the door opening by myself. Just needs a little fine tuning with hammer and dolly and a little trimming along the edges to fit better then it's on to drilling lots of holes for plug welding. Of course I'll clean up and coat inside the rails before final install.
Nice work! I did the same to my car. If it's in the budget, I would suggest purchasing a punch tool for the plug weld holes. I put a slice in the head with a grinder so that I could place the holes a bit more in-board.
torredcuda
Well-Known Member
A hole puncher would save work along the edges but most of the holes are too far inboard for it to work.
torredcuda
Well-Known Member
Holes drilled and sanded, scuffed the underside, next I'll flip it over and prep the top side. I coated the inside of the cross member and as much as I could get of the frame rails and I'll spray some weld thru primer on the any areas that I can't get to once welded in.
torredcuda
Well-Known Member
Had to plug two holes and drill them with a 1" hole saw as they are not in correct location for '70. Got the seat belts brackets and cable bracket bead blasted and welded on.
torredcuda
Well-Known Member
Welding has started! Passenger side cross member has a slight gap coming down the hump, other than pulling it down with self tapping screws anyone have any tricks to get it tight?
torredcuda
Well-Known Member
Got the passenger side tight to the crossmember using self tapping screws and continued working outward.
torredcuda
Well-Known Member
compressor! My air compressor made some horrible screeching noise when I fired it up today and then tripped the breaker. I tried it a couple more times but it`s obvious the motor is cooked - again! I replaced the motor on it about 6 years ago and now have to again but I might just buy a new one - there goes $1000 worth of car road runner parts money I had saved. Anyone have recommendations for a 60-80 gallon upright?
torredcuda
Well-Known Member
Compressor issue resolved and work continues but nothing exciting to show. Floor pan is about 75% welded in and got some grinding done, need to finish welding one corner and along rear seam then hours of grinding - yay! Once I finish that I`ll bolt the rear back onto the rotisserie and spin it 90 degrees to clean up the bottom side. Pics to keep me motivated.
torredcuda
Well-Known Member
Getting there, about 95% welded and 75% ground. Once I finish the grinding I'll go back over any voids or blow thru and weld them up and grind down. Hoping to have it bolted back up on the rotisserie some time next week to start working on the underside.
torredcuda
Well-Known Member
I forgot I had to go back and finish smoothing the top side of the trunk pan and get some epoxy on it before it gets bolted back up to the rotisserie as it is easier access now. It hit 50 degrees today so it was perfect for spraying with fan in the doorway. Next is clean the shop a bit from all the grinding and sanding and bolt the back up to the rotisserie, spin it on it's side so I can get underneath and touch up the screw holes and a few other spots with the welder.
torredcuda
Well-Known Member
Rear of car is bolted back onto the rotisserie and I rolled it on it's side. First job is to fix the caved in areas on the frame rails - drivers front and rear and passenger side rear - all done by jacking I'm guessing. I have an issue with my stud puller - the pins are not holding at all and almost fall off, metal is clean and I cleaned the tip and still won't hold. Any ideas why?
torredcuda
Well-Known Member
Front drivers one is done, rear is caved in pretty good "get the big (slide) hammer Vern!" The bottom of the spring perch is also bent up a bit right on the bend and will probably need some heat along with the big slide hammer to straighten it out.
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torredcuda
Well-Known Member
Thought I would show one of the ways I pull thicker metal when the weld pins aren't strong enough. I have a bolt welded onto one of the attachments for the big slide hammer and usually use a small piece of metal strapping, for the even thicker metal I have a 1/4" thick scrap that already had holes it it. I just tack weld the piece on, slide hammer, cut off, reposition and repeat.
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torredcuda
Well-Known Member
I know most of us have limited budgets for our Mopars whether buying done or building, mine probably being smaller than most. I take pride in doing all the work myself especially the metal, body work and paint as that is one of first things people see when checking out a classic car and for the most part enjoy it. But - one of things I would have liked to have paid to have done was to have everything sand blasted as doing it all by hand is time consuming and not at all fun.
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