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70 Road Runner project

finally tore into my carbs rebuilding them ,sanded down power steering pump and removed the pulley and painted it. installed the carbs and air cleaner just can't get the lid paint to come out even .The pump is a trw pump I think it is for older models but doesn't bother me it fits .

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I started up my 440-6 and broke it in,but I had to remove the cast iron bell housing because it was to wide and starter wouldn't engage, so I took a 727 with out a tail shaft or any guts and left the flywheel on engine and reworked the rear brackets on my run stand working great! Some reason I can't get video to play, I will try it live tomorrow
 
since I can't get a video to load, here's some pictures of my test stand using a gutted 727 with a manual flywheel and tail shaft removed . I used a piece of square tube and a piece of angle to get the car pan to clear k member, but if you can get a set of truck mounts you won't need to build it up as much

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Great project can’t wait to see the progress
 
finally got to see my car since the painter got it almost 3 years ago , gave him an ultimatum and said I was going to come and take the car and he has until June 30 to have it painted, it worked and I finally got to see the car and he had me bring some of the parts to get painted. hopefully he meets the deadline and I can assemble it.

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finally got to see my car since the painter got it almost 3 years ago
There's a local guy where I live, I was introduced to him by my best friend and Mopar brother. He does great work, and I had him paint match my AMD N96 hood with the existing "Lemon Twist" yellow and satin black stripes. Now the yellow on my car is very close to Lemon Twist, but it's actually some Dandelion yellow paint color. If it wasn't indistinguishable from Lemon Twist, I'd be unhappy, because I've seen other yellow Roadrunners and their yellow wasn't close. Regardless, he was able to match it.
The point I wanted to make is he is a genuinely good guy, and talented in his work, but he's also a fireman, AND he's been building an awesome new, really big shop to work in that's his, vs the shop he's been renting for years. The problem is that he can't really take any new work, and my best friend has been through hell trying to get his 70 Cuda body work and paint done.
At first, he brought it to a mutual friend of ours who has been doing body and paint for decades, and we've known each other since we were teenagers, so over 40 years. He had already gone through waiting years to get a Starion painted, because of the quality of work and a price that was really cheap. When he finally got it done, it was a trophy winner, but he went without for so long! Against ALL of our advice, he brought his Cuda to him. Not only did it sit for 2 years, our friend's shop had a fire, and that messed up some of the metal and other stuff on the Cuda, but it could have been worse.
So he brought it to the first guy I described, the one who did my hood, and it has sat, untouched, for at least another 2 years!! At 60 years old, that kind of **** is something that I think is foolish. I know, after going to 3 of our friends funerals in 3 years, the last was 2 years ago, that we just don't have that kind of time to piss away. Not just waiting for the car to be done, but all of the shows and events that we miss, with no guarantee of "I'll go next year" being a possibility.
It's CRAZY how long some shops take! Even Mark Worman takes years. I understand if you want factory correct, to the "T" there are limited choices, but if you die or miss a lot of events waiting, is it really worth it?
I know I'm going to have to get some paint work done eventually, with a few very small bubbles in a couple of small places starting to show, and I want it done right, which as nice as my car looks, obviously someone used filler or something is making these few tiny bubbles come up. If I get the rear wheelwells tubbed, I guess I'll have to get it painted, and I don't want some shitty paint job, but whoever does it is going to have months, at the most, or I'll have to keep looking.
 
Some more progress on my rr paint job and I'm going over on Sunday to help put in the front and rear glass
 
Well not much going on here with paint, but just ,trying to get parts ready to assemble my car. It has a narrowed 9" ford rear with 5:89 gears. I am looking for suggestions for what size gear to put in the car mostly a cruiser, with 727 auto and 29x18xr15 tires, I've seen some 3:50 & 3:40 gears that are available which would be best ?
 
Where is the top portion of your core support? Probably should have welded one back in before paint?
 
I've seen some 3:50 & 3:40 gears that are available which would be best ?
I had 3.54 gears in my Dana 60 and they weren't too bad for the highway, while still being high enough to get the Roadrunner moving from a dead stop.
My 17" drag radials are about 25½" diameter and I used to turn 3,500 at 72 MPH in 4th gear. I went to 4.10 gears when I put my 5 speed Passon transmission in, and dropped to 2,750 in 5th, but the Get Up and GO "should" be great once I get my traction aides dialed in. From a roll it's a BLAST, but my 572 is going to change all that again, yet I'm reluctant to go back to the 3.54s.
It all comes down to preference between highway driving vs acceleration and what you're comfortable with.
 
I had 3.54 gears in my Dana 60 and they weren't too bad for the highway, while still being high enough to get the Roadrunner moving from a dead stop.
My 17" drag radials are about 25½" diameter and I used to turn 3,500 at 72 MPH in 4th gear. I went to 4.10 gears when I put my 5 speed Passon transmission in, and dropped to 2,750 in 5th, but the Get Up and GO "should" be great once I get my traction aides dialed in. From a roll it's a BLAST, but my 572 is going to change all that again, yet I'm reluctant to go back to the 3.54s.
It all comes down to preference between highway driving vs acceleration and what you're comfortable with.
Have rosin tank with spray on both rear tires with a button to activate it.:lol:
 
I had 3.54 gears in my Dana 60 and they weren't too bad for the highway, while still being high enough to get the Roadrunner moving from a dead stop.
My 17" drag radials are about 25½" diameter and I used to turn 3,500 at 72 MPH in 4th gear. I went to 4.10 gears when I put my 5 speed Passon transmission in, and dropped to 2,750 in 5th, but the Get Up and GO "should" be great once I get my traction aides dialed in. From a roll it's a BLAST, but my 572 is going to change all that again, yet I'm reluctant to go back to the 3.54s.
It all comes down to preference between highway driving vs acceleration and what you're comfortable with.
Thanks
 
Painted! Hood stripe and side scoops which he forgot and final sanding and buff,supposed to be able to pick up end of the week! IT looks orange pictures but it is red in person, which is what I wanted, a little deeper red would have been better but finally out of paint jail. 3 1/2 years. Reassemble and drive.

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a little deeper red would have been better
Congratulations on your parole from paint jail!
It's obvious to anyone who has known me or read my posts that yellow and black are my favorite color combos, but I'll NEVER forget the time, before I had my Lemon Twist and Black 70 Roadrunner, I spotted a RED and Black 70 GTX, and I was beyond words stunned!! By RED, I mean real red, NO orange at all, no maroon, just REAL RED.
I believe the designation is E5 Rally RED.
IF I were to ever choose a red paint job, that would be my biggest concern: it may come out too bright or dark, when E5 is the goal.
Once you get your car dressed out, that may help "tone down" the perceived brightness, but I think it's going to look GREAT!
 
Congratulations on your parole from paint jail!
It's obvious to anyone who has known me or read my posts that yellow and black are my favorite color combos, but I'll NEVER forget the time, before I had my Lemon Twist and Black 70 Roadrunner, I spotted a RED and Black 70 GTX, and I was beyond words stunned!! By RED, I mean real red, NO orange at all, no maroon, just REAL RED.
I believe the designation is E5 Rally RED.
IF I were to ever choose a red paint job, that would be my biggest concern: it may come out too bright or dark, when E5 is the goal.
Once you get your car dressed out, that may help "tone down" the perceived brightness, but I think it's going to look GREAT!
I remember you had some done on your yellow interior car. They dirtied up the yellow seats, did they ever get cleaned up? You probably answered but I furgotski.
When I was younger thought red interior was garish now I think it's OK depending on body color.
 
I remember you had some (work) done on your yellow interior car. They dirtied up the yellow seats, did they ever get cleaned up? You probably answered but I furgotski.

Yes!! I used a spray can of Blue Magic Carpet Stain and Spot Lifter that someone at O'Reilly Auto Parts recommended, and it worked VERY well! I was dealing with stains from the WORST oil, axle grease, rear diff oil, and decades of "mechanics shop floor funk".
The only "trick" to using the Blue Magic is also in the directions IIRC, and that is to have a towel/rag/or similar to sop up or absorb the dirty wet areas as you use the product. Otherwise it "moves" the oil and grease to a ring or edge of the area being cleaned.
Don't mistake that as a problem, I don't think I'd use anything else! It works great!
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Congratulations on your parole from paint jail!
It's obvious to anyone who has known me or read my posts that yellow and black are my favorite color combos, but I'll NEVER forget the time, before I had my Lemon Twist and Black 70 Roadrunner, I spotted a RED and Black 70 GTX, and I was beyond words stunned!! By RED, I mean real red, NO orange at all, no maroon, just REAL RED.
I believe the designation is E5 Rally RED.
IF I were to ever choose a red paint job, that would be my biggest concern: it may come out too bright or dark, when E5 is the goal.
Once you get your car dressed out, that may help "tone down" the perceived brightness, but I think it's going to look GREAT!
Yes rally red is what I think my car was ,bye what evidence was still left on the car and it was the only info I had because no fender tag or broadcast sheet were available. Thanks for the positive input.
 
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