71 charger rebuilt 727 question

[velrob]

i just finished rebuilding my 727 and notice the shaft is pretty hard to turn

should the shaft spin easily?

new frictions and steels and seals. using thinnest steels and frictions available. the tolerance was in the middle of the acceptable range but what i did notice was on some spot the feeler gauge slid in easily and some spots it did not. what does this mean? should i replace the wavy ring?

also should i be using gasket sealer on the tail along with the paper gasket or the paper gasket alone?

thx

 

[moper]

If the unit is on a bench or supported in a fixture, it will be hard to turn. When it's full of pressurized oil, and the input is in the convertor's stator, it's easier. As long as endplay is good and the air checking was good, it will be fine. IMO - no sealer. The surfaces should be perfectly clean and dry, and use only the paper. Silicone can break off and get caught in bad spots in an automatic.

 

[velrob]

yea it was on a bench

sorry what air checking do you mean? do u you mean pumping air into the rear and front servos?

thanks alot.

 

[71SandbugCharger]

i just finished rebuilding my 727 and notice the shaft is pretty hard to turn

should the shaft spin easily?

new frictions and steels and seals. using thinnest steels and frictions available. the tolerance was in the middle of the acceptable range but what i did notice was on some spot the feeler gauge slid in easily and some spots it did not. what does this mean? should i replace the wavy ring?

also should i be using gasket sealer on the tail along with the paper gasket or the paper gasket alone?

thx

If you don't mind me asking....
1) How hard was it to rebuild yourself, and was it cheaper than $800 to do?
2) If you had it over to do again, would you spend $800 or do it yourself?
3) Did you use a book, a video? Details?
4) I have a connection with a rebuilder (can you tell by the $800 reference), do you want me to ask him your question?

Thanks!!!

 

[dvw]

parts are usually less than $200. very few special tools. A good book will teach you. Yes they turn hard. I use no sealer. If your clearance was in the middle you'll be fine. Clutch air check can be done at the pump inlets or at the case itself. It verifys that the clutches operate under pressure. Bands are tested the same way at the servo feed ports.
Doug

 

[miller]

If you have any doubts about it, once you get things going, just check the fluid every once in awhile. The fluid will let you know if anything's wrong.
First run, suggest only at idle, shift slowly through all the gears.

 

[AR67GTX]

You definitely need this book if you are a novice to rebuilding an A727.

https://www.barnesandnoble.com/p/to...d=Google_&sourceId=PLGoP3038&k_clickid=3x3038

I rebuilt mine last winter as a novice if you want to look at my thread.

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/first-questions-on-my-727-rebuild-journey.123796/

The only tool I somewhat lacked for at the start - other than a transmission jack - was a set of seriously HD snap ring pliers. Most everything else can be improvised. You will probably need access to a 12 or 20 ton press a couple times although I think my gears could have been tapped off the output with a brass drift.

If all the hard parts inside the transmission are good then the cost is pretty reasonable for a rebuild. But if you find stuff inside worn it can go up. Pretty sure your rebuilders quote of $800 doesn't include replacement of any major parts though so it's all relative. Things I ran into were a worn hub on my torque converter, slightly scored pump impellor and a worn planetary. I did a few other things just because I could such as a mild valve body kit.

 

[velrob]

$800 usd? lol definitely less. I paid $270 for a complete rebuild kit 2 years ago which included the repair manual. i re-used all the parts except for bands, frictions, steels and seals etc.

i will definitely do it again it wasnt hard at all. i installed a shift kit as well. i took alot of videos on my phone as well. it was fun and i learned alot. im doing my diff next.

i will test the air to ensure the bands are working.

 

[miller]

sorry what air checking do you mean?

He's talking about the fluid ports, front and rear of the shift body. Should show in your manual. Valve body would have to be pulled. Air checking those ports simply let you know the servos are working right. Normally done during the build.

Yeah on the $. $250ish about average for a good kit.