Finally decided... Well guys I have noodled back and forth over whether I'd rather convert the car to a four (or five) speed overdrive or bolt on a Gear Vendor. In the end it came down to cost. No matter how you slice it, it's $4,000 to $5,000 to convert an automatic 727 car to a manual overdrive transmission. I was able to get a good deal on a Gear Vendor,and it came highly recommended by a reputable speed-shop I work with here a lot. It's a bolt on two-speed transmission which replaces the tailshaft of the stock 727. The two gears are one-to-one and .78 to one, thats a 22% overdrive, or a 22% reduction in RPM at any speed from my current. If shifted correctly, it allows either an automatic overdrive which comes in at around 47mph, or a full "6 speeds" with first, first-over; second, second-over and third, third-over. You guys probably already know all this, but since I've had trouble locating a good Gear Vendor build thread, I'm going to try to do one here for the next guy considering it. You may remember, my goal is road racing with long high-speed runs like the Silver State, so I need the sustained high speed the overdrive will allow. So here we go: What's in the box The tailshaft is nearly 20" and replaces the stock 17" tailshaft. The Gear Vendor goes behind that. The two together are about 29". That's 12" longer than the stock setup, which means a new (or cut factory) driveshaft. For now it looks like the Gear Vendor literally just hangs on the back of the new tailshaft, supported by the tailshaft to transmission connection and the transmission support crossmember. You can see the machined "flat" with the two bolts where the new tailshaft bolts to the factory crossmember. It looks like a lot of weight cantilevered off the back of the new tailshaft, but we'll see. It's certainly a robust looking casting. And I'm sure this is not their first time. The little "digital box" in the center of the picture is their computer, which keeps track of the position of the transmission (overdrive on/off), the position of the in-car controls and the speed of the vehicle. I started working on the removal of the factory parts tonight but ran into a roadblock when I found I needed a 45-degree or 90-degree snap ring pliers to get the factory tailshaft off. I'll try to locate one tomorrow and keep pushing forward. You can see the digital signal generator for my Dakota Digital speedometer with the transmission crossmember and the driveshaft removed. I moved the right side exhaust pipe slightly away to get the crossmember out. I held up the transmission with a floor jack to get the crossmember out, and then lowered it about an inch to make it a little easier to get to the upper tailshaft mounting bolts. The bottom two, which look like nuts which would thread off of the studs coming out of the transmission case, are in fact studs with a fixed nut. When you "loosen the nut", the whole stud comes out. I am not sure what the purpose of that is, but it is... After I lowered the trans (should have checked first) I put an angle-finder on the air filter just to make sure I could tell if the jack moved. Interestingly, it was perfectly level. Don't forget to check your fan to radiator clearance as lowering your transmission will tilt your engine and move your fan forward at the bottom a little. I had plenty of room but was glad I thought to check.