BearDodge67
Well-Known Member
Here's a question... what's the gearing in the car?
9 Month Wait For a Stock 440 Rebuild, and Then This
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I think it'll be good. Not exactly like Grumpy Jenkins pulling up to the stop lights 
BSB67
Well-Known Member
The factory cam LSA is 115*. The lunati cam you have there is noticeably larger than a factory cam, plus the fast rate design increases the likelihood of lifter or valve train issues.
Based on your stated goals, I would probably step down a level and use a less aggressive lobe profile.
Based on your stated goals, I would probably step down a level and use a less aggressive lobe profile.
steve340
Well-Known Member
IMO the one thing that you cannot get around is the stall speed of the converter. It is very tricky to tune around to much cam and not enough converter and compression.
Lets assume the stock converter is 1900-2000 RPM.
That cam with the 110 LSA will not idle well in gear at the traffic lights.
You will almost certainly have to go higher with the idle speed out of gear and when you drop it into gear it will get a bit funny at low RPM.
I looked at the factory service manual and they list a STD torque converter that measures 11 3/4 inches and a High Stall which measures 10 3/4 inches.
If you can - measure the converter diameter before you make a final choice.
Lets assume the stock converter is 1900-2000 RPM.
That cam with the 110 LSA will not idle well in gear at the traffic lights.
You will almost certainly have to go higher with the idle speed out of gear and when you drop it into gear it will get a bit funny at low RPM.
I looked at the factory service manual and they list a STD torque converter that measures 11 3/4 inches and a High Stall which measures 10 3/4 inches.
If you can - measure the converter diameter before you make a final choice.
#41
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It's 3.23. The car is meant to be a cruiser. It's reasonably quiet and has AC, PW, PB and PS.
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Never trust what 'dead on' is.....always degree the cam then you know exactly where things are. Heck, I've found 'stock' cams to be off enough to make a difference in performance. A buddy of mine did a performance cam using the 'dot' method and got screwed with all of his new exhaust valves getting bent.
My rule of thumb is don't go over .500 lift with the stock valve train. Over .500 lift you have to start worrying about spring bind, and valve train geometry.
If you keep the cam at least use the springs that Lunati recommends. I bought a Lunati cam kit one step down from yours, under 500 lift intake and exhaust, with their lifters, springs and timing set.
If you keep the cam at least use the springs that Lunati recommends. I bought a Lunati cam kit one step down from yours, under 500 lift intake and exhaust, with their lifters, springs and timing set.
Thrashingcows
Well-Known Member
With your stated expectations for the motor and with 3.23 gearing and options I don't think this is the right cam for you. I made the mistake of running to large a cam in a 383 with a 4spd and 3.23...the car was horrible below 3500 rpm....once over that it took off! But I wanted a cruiser and decided the next year to pull the cam and go with a MP stock HP cam and couldn't have been happier afterwards!
You just mentioned power brakes, now you may run into a vacuum problem there.
As a business owner, and a machine shop, I think the one question everyone seems to have missed is the fact that it was supposed to be a "Stock" rebuild. So, I have to ask the OP, was the price for the stock build quoted, and was that what was charged on what you picked up? Building an engine that was not requested by the owner is not proper business etiquette to me. The OP even said he was expecting to be called so that they could hammer out the details after initial cleaning and inspection...
BearDodge67
Well-Known Member
One thin
I did degree it... sorry, should have been more specific. Meant I didn't have to change it from straight up.
I did degree it... sorry, should have been more specific. Meant I didn't have to change it from straight up.
#41
Well-Known Member
It gets better: After concluding I could not trust anything verbal, I pulled the cam and it is not even what they said it was (10230703). It is 10230700... what Lunatti calls an improved HP, improved torque, ski-boat, towing cam. Specs are reasonably close to a stock 440 HP cam at:
208/213 @ .50, .454/.452 lift, 112 LSA, 0-5000 rpm range.
It'll work. I was even able to save the gasket. Done and moving on....
Thanks all.
208/213 @ .50, .454/.452 lift, 112 LSA, 0-5000 rpm range.
It'll work. I was even able to save the gasket. Done and moving on....
Thanks all.
lewtot184
Well-Known Member
don't even think about starting the engine if it has stock magnum springs. i believe the summit 6420 is a stock magnum cam.
That power range will give it some serious bottom end grunt ...
So....is that the cam that's actually in your engine? Or just the specs on some random cam card he didn't lose?
Is the cam degreed in?
Considering he didn't know what cam he'd installed I would be curious what pistons he used... A bore scope would tell you without having to do any disassembly beyond pulling a sparkplug... Look for four valve notches.... If they aren't there look deeper...
Geoff 2
Well-Known Member
'110 LSA' will not idle well. Complete BS.
Idle quality depends on overlap, which in turn depends on duration & LSA. A 104 LSA cam will idle very smoothly with 195 @ 050 duration.
The 383/440 engines have large rod/stroke ratios which means they do not tolerate big cams as well as a 454 Chebby [ for idle purposes ].
I would use an Isky 264 Mega cam, much better suited for the intended use.
Idle quality depends on overlap, which in turn depends on duration & LSA. A 104 LSA cam will idle very smoothly with 195 @ 050 duration.
The 383/440 engines have large rod/stroke ratios which means they do not tolerate big cams as well as a 454 Chebby [ for idle purposes ].
I would use an Isky 264 Mega cam, much better suited for the intended use.
Beep Beep Dave
Active Member
I would recommend getting a Bob K....Mr Six Pack cam for that engine. Give him a call and he will set you up.
Dave
Dave
That's good to hear. That will work well with what you have. How do the pistons look?
And I always chuckle when I read through these threads, guys read the first couple posts, then respond, even after you said what camshaft the engine actually has and you are going to run it. Sounds like a good cam that will idle smooth, have good vacuum and work well with stock valvetrain, but using the springs they recommend might not be a bad idea
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