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A833 Four Speed Transmission Fluid Recommendation

Perhaps, these "guys" will be willing to share the cost of the transmission rebuild/repair due to seal failure, synchronizer failure (especially the ones on the main shaft) and actual gear tooth wear. "Great" is a subjective term that means nothing, unless documented...IMO. What is being compared: cost, temperature, MPG, ease in shifting-cold vs hot, MTBF (Mean Time Before Failure) lower ETs?. Maybe this is a "they said" rule.
ATF has totally different lubricating properties, and coefficient of friction level to promote long clutch friction disc life. The gear separating forces in a 4 speed transmission are totally different than those on an automatic transmission's planetary gear train as these gears are contained by the ring gear and tend to be cancelled out. Manual transmission lubricants contain an EP (Extreme Pressure) additives, a viscosity and film strength high enough to prevent actual metal to metal contact of the counter shaft and main shaft gearing during extreme loading conditions....like 1/4 mile contests. For my application, I'll continue to use a synthetic 80W-90 gear lubricant like a Mobile1 product, but to each his own....
BOB RENTON

Hello Bob, since it sounds like you're experienced/knowledgeable regarding this issue, I have additional questions.. I'm going to be servicing my A833 soon, with plans to use Sta-lube SAE 80W90 API GL-4, as recommended by Brewer's. I use Mobil 1 engine oil in my daily driver (not the car I'm asking about, here), and I'm happy with it; many trouble-free miles. So, I like Mobil 1.. you say you use Mobil 1 Synthetic 80W90. Do you like it better than Sta-lube and, if so, why? Do you use the same product in your differential? I have a bottle of Mopar Limited Slip additive (4 ounces), to add, as well, when I change the differential fluid (changing because of many years sitting idle). Thank you, Bob! If you have any other information to answer my questions, I'm all ears! I look forward to hearing from you! Thanks Again!
 
Hello Bob, since it sounds like you're experienced/knowledgeable regarding this issue, I have additional questions.. I'm going to be servicing my A833 soon, with plans to use Sta-lube SAE 80W90 API GL-4, as recommended by Brewer's. I use Mobil 1 engine oil in my daily driver (not the car I'm asking about, here), and I'm happy with it; many trouble-free miles. So, I like Mobil 1.. you say you use Mobil 1 Synthetic 80W90. Do you like it better than Sta-lube and, if so, why? Do you use the same product in your differential? I have a bottle of Mopar Limited Slip additive (4 ounces), to add, as well, when I change the differential fluid (changing because of many years sitting idle). Thank you, Bob! If you have any other information to answer my questions, I'm all ears! I look forward to hearing from you! Thanks Again!
THANK YOU for your email.....as mentioned, I like Mobil 1 products. I also use Mobil 1 lube oil in both vehicles...my Yukon Denali (5W-30) and wife's Buick Envision (0W-20) and in the '70 GTX (10W-30) in the 4 speed transmission and Dana 60 (4.10:1 gear) rear (with 1 pint Sure Grip additive).

GL-4 is API (Americian Petroleum Institute) classification of gear oil or gear lubricant.
Automotive Gear Oil GL-4 is a multipurpose, extreme-pressure, API GL-4 automotive gear lubricant specifically designed for use in select manual transmissions and in drive axles with spiral bevel gears or with hypoid gears operating under moderate speeds and loads.
From Mobil 1 site:
Mobil 1™ Syn Gear Lube LS is a supreme performance, synthetic, multi-purpose, SAE 75W-90 automotive gear lubricant designed to help meet the highest level performance requirements of modern passenger vehicles in all types of operating conditions including limited slip applications, as well as, deliver outstanding power transfer performance.

Compared to conventional hypoid gear lubricants, Mobil 1 Syn Gear Lube LS 75W-90 performs exceptionally over a wide range of temperatures. Mobil 1 Syn Gear Lube LS 75W-90 achieves this through a unique proprietary formulation, that deliver optimized viscosity-temperature properties together with the highest level of inherent formulation stability and helps to protect against thermal and oxidative degradation, wear and corrosion, viscosity loss associated with premature shearing. It also can be used in extended service and for aiding in fuel economy performance.
Ive not used the exact brand you mentioned, I'm sure its just fine....I just like the synthetic lubricants and have had great luck with them....but its your choice. The proponents of no sulfur in their lubricants as they degrade brass parts, isn't entirely accurate as the "brass" parts are not the easily recognized soft brass alloys (80-20 copper tin) but are a heat treated aluminium silicon bronze alloy noted for their strength for the intended duty. I use the 75W-90 gear lube....I miss spoke previously....sorry.
BOB RENTON
 
THANK YOU for your email.....as mentioned, I like Mobil 1 products. I also use Mobil 1 lube oil in both vehicles...my Yukon Denali (5W-30) and wife's Buick Envision (0W-20) and in the '70 GTX (10W-30) in the 4 speed transmission and Dana 60 (4.10:1 gear) rear (with 1 pint Sure Grip additive).

GL-4 is API (Americian Petroleum Institute) classification of gear oil or gear lubricant.
Automotive Gear Oil GL-4 is a multipurpose, extreme-pressure, API GL-4 automotive gear lubricant specifically designed for use in select manual transmissions and in drive axles with spiral bevel gears or with hypoid gears operating under moderate speeds and loads.
From Mobil 1 site:
Mobil 1™ Syn Gear Lube LS is a supreme performance, synthetic, multi-purpose, SAE 75W-90 automotive gear lubricant designed to help meet the highest level performance requirements of modern passenger vehicles in all types of operating conditions including limited slip applications, as well as, deliver outstanding power transfer performance.

Compared to conventional hypoid gear lubricants, Mobil 1 Syn Gear Lube LS 75W-90 performs exceptionally over a wide range of temperatures. Mobil 1 Syn Gear Lube LS 75W-90 achieves this through a unique proprietary formulation, that deliver optimized viscosity-temperature properties together with the highest level of inherent formulation stability and helps to protect against thermal and oxidative degradation, wear and corrosion, viscosity loss associated with premature shearing. It also can be used in extended service and for aiding in fuel economy performance.
Ive not used the exact brand you mentioned, I'm sure its just fine....I just like the synthetic lubricants and have had great luck with them....but its your choice. The proponents of no sulfur in their lubricants as they degrade brass parts, isn't entirely accurate as the "brass" parts are not the easily recognized soft brass alloys (80-20 copper tin) but are a heat treated aluminium silicon bronze alloy noted for their strength for the intended duty. I use the 75W-90 gear lube....I miss spoke previously....sorry.
BOB RENTON

Thank You Bob.. for taking the time to reply, and for the information you supplied! I appreciate it!
 
There are now GL-5 lubes that are made for older manual boxes with synchros and Royal Purple-or is it Red Line- makes a lube specifically for A-833 boxes.
And synthetic oils are not thinner than dino oils. They flow better than dead dinos.
 
There are now GL-5 lubes that are made for older manual boxes with synchros and Royal Purple-or is it Red Line- makes a lube specifically for A-833 boxes.
And synthetic oils are not thinner than dino oils. They flow better than dead dinos.

Yes...Im aware that synthetic oil viscosities are not thinner than "dino oil" (if you mean derritives of crude oil) but rather than specific brand names, perhaps the comparisons should include blend components, viscosity index numbers including the SAE grades, temperature ratings, defination of the various API GL (Gear Lubricant) specifications and their characteristics from one grade to another. I guess one could always use mashed bananas or as some unscrupulous used car dealers use to use was oil soaked saw dust to quiet a noisy transmissions or rear ends......then the debate would need to include what type of saw dust soaked oil used and how much per car. I'm not suggesting those methods, but, I've had good results with the synthetic oils I use in my vehicles and plan to continue their use. I guess the old addage "you pay your money and take your choice" applies.....
BOB RENTON
 
The stuff Jamie Passon sells.:thumbsup:
I switched to that and have been happy rowing 4 ever since.
 
This is what I use. Synchromesh
It holds almost 3 1/2 quarts I believe.
How about aluminum 833 / Drive. It's a be body unit I think but I don't know what year. When I had it rebuilt the Builder told me he used to newer synchros because they were better than the older ones whatever that means. I believe that in the early 2000s./ATTACH]
 
Hi guys Im chasing a leak in my A833
I replaced my speedometer cable, also the little seal for the speedometer pinion. I then added lube to the trans to the point where my I could feel lube with my pinkie finger.

Went for a ride and lost a bunch of lube - I fogged the neighborhood for mosquitoes
Question: Did I overfill the gearbox? I looked at the speedocable and adapter- they are dry. I dont lose any lube when the car just sits… Any ideas ?
 
Is the tail shaft seal and bushing still good? Where is it leaking from?
 
Is the tail shaft seal and bushing still good? Where is it leaking from?
Hi 5.7
Tailshaft is good- no leaks at all there
I originally had a speedometer cable leak at the pinion adapter- since fixed.
Lube runs down from the top of the trans in the back just over the speedo pinion adapter
I think theres a vent up there?
 
Sounds like the breather isn’t doing it’s job.
 
Sounds like it’s coming out the vent. So it it too full (doesn’t sound like it) or is the oil foaming and coming out the vent?

Is there a gasket leaking up high so it only leaks when oil is getting; thrown around from driving?
 
Hi R413
I checked the gaskets and they look good.
I can reach the vent and I can spin it freely but cant see it.
Any ideas on how to check that vent?
 
Remove the fill plug, blow 10psl air into the case and air should come out the vent.

did you have the trans out of the car?
 
Remove the fill plug, blow 10psl air into the case and air should come out the vent.

did you have the trans out of the car?
Hi R413
No sir havent had the trans out- at least not by me.
Ill try that next weekend. Is 10 psi the threshold? I mean should it hold air below 10psi ?
 
No it shouldn’t hold air, but you don’t want to put in too much air pressure and blow a seal.

you want enough air to feel or hear it coming out the vent. I don’t know if you can reach to the top with your hand.
 
If the gearbox has been rebuilt they could have left out the baffle protection plate for the vent in the tail shaft housing.
 
It’s either the breather or the gasket on the tail shaft at the top.
 
Hi guys Im chasing a leak in my A833
I replaced my speedometer cable, also the little seal for the speedometer pinion. I then added lube to the trans to the point where my I could feel lube with my pinkie finger.

Went for a ride and lost a bunch of lube - I fogged the neighborhood for mosquitoes
Question: Did I overfill the gearbox? I looked at the speedocable and adapter- they are dry. I dont lose any lube when the car just sits… Any ideas ?
My friend, you created your post UNDER the heading of my original post, and now I’m receiving answers to your post! Please create your own thread. Thanks!
 
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