A833 trans help - fork not pivoting on the pivot point and keeps the TO bearing touching the diaphragm

[dasol7172]

Is this a indication of not enough grease inside the TO bearing or a worn fork? Clutch pedal feels good when pressing it down in the cabin, however the fork does not pivot backwards beyond i would guess is the midway point? Like instead of see saw action it just acts like a lever and stops mid way? Looking for ideas on what my next step should be. At the point of pulling it all apart again and greasing the TO bearing some more and maybe run some sand paper on the input shaft or replace the fork? Fork is pretty rough on the backside with that metal piece that goes through the pivot window.

I did put some grease in the pivot of the fork there that's an older picture. Just looking for a tip or idea on what next. Would rather not order a new fork if its not needed or if im messing something up. The spring is from a new clutch adjustment kit and is on the fork.

TO bearing did have grease on the inside from the factory.. maybe not enough? Really trying not to pull this all back out again after it was put all back together again and has oil and everything attached haha.

vid below

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Do you have a return spring?

 

[gkent]

The fork moves forward because you haven't taken the slop out with the adjustment rod ! Turn the nut on the rod till the throwout just contacts the diaphram then back it off so you have about 1/8 of slop at the pivot end of the fork - which will give about the same at the diaphram.

And you need the spring from the fork to the bellhousing !!

 

[dasol7172]

Do you have a return spring?
View attachment 1916144

As stated in my post. yes.

 

[dasol7172]

The fork moves forward because you haven't taken the slop out with the adjustment rod ! Turn the nut on the rod till the throwout just contacts the diaphram then back it off so you have about 1/8 of slop at the pivot end of the fork - which will give about the same at the diaphram.

And you need the spring from the fork to the bellhousing !!

Not at all what I'm talking about.

 

[TallGuy71]

Not at all what I'm talking about.

Hey man, do you get this figured out? I just went through a similar nightmare myself and may be able to offer some advice.

 

[AR67GTX]

Is the fork hitting the back of the bell housing opening? Wondering if that’s the clicking I hear.

 

[AR67GTX]

If the flat spring on the underside of the fork is “sprung” and isn’t keeping tension on the pivot bracket, it will introduce a sloppy fork when the clutch is let out. The return spring pulls the outer end of the fork forward but since the fork isn’t secured to the bracket it can fall forward and let the TO bearing bounce off the pressure plate fingers. I have mine out and it was sprung. I drilled out the rivets, straightened the spring , tapped the rivet holes in the fork and secured it with 2 machine screws and red Loctite. The spring on the fork needs to hold the fork firmly to the pivot bracket so the linkage and return spring can pivot the TOB away from the clutch fingers.

May not apply to what you are asking about. Not sure.

 

[Bird 426]

What was the purpose of taking it apart? Was this the reason that you took it apart? Or was there something else and now this popped up?

 

[Daves69]

Pretty clear in the video when the fork is being pushed rearward it's not riding on the pivot.

 

[dasol7172]

Hey man, do you get this figured out? I just went through a similar nightmare myself and may be able to offer some advice.

No i did not. Just left it and now the motor has rod knock so have to pull it all back out most likely unless i can get to the crank bearings without removing the motor.

 

[dasol7172]

If the flat spring on the underside of the fork is “sprung” and isn’t keeping tension on the pivot bracket, it will introduce a sloppy fork when the clutch is let out. The return spring pulls the outer end of the fork forward but since the fork isn’t secured to the bracket it can fall forward and let the TO bearing bounce off the pressure plate fingers. I have mine out and it was sprung. I drilled out the rivets, straightened the spring , tapped the rivet holes in the fork and secured it with 2 machine screws and red Loctite. The spring on the fork needs to hold the fork firmly to the pivot bracket so the linkage and return spring can pivot the TOB away from the clutch fingers.

May not apply to what you are asking about. Not sure.

This is exactly what I was seeing! By spring you mean the metal tang that goes into the pivot ? Because it was not staying in the pocket on the back side of the fork I thought that it could be the reason.. but wasn't really sure how to correct it.. Will doing what you did get me to the point i need to be? The fork is old.. so I kinda was thinking that metal tang is worn out so not sure how I could fix that without replacing.

 

[dasol7172]

What was the purpose of taking it apart? Was this the reason that you took it apart? Or was there something else and now this popped up?

Clutch in there acted like it was worn out so replaced it all and now that the new one is in there and it almost seems like its acting the same.. I think this problem has existed quite a while on this car.

 

[AR67GTX]

This is exactly what I was seeing! By spring you mean the metal tang that goes into the pivot ? Because it was not staying in the pocket on the back side of the fork I thought that it could be the reason.. but wasn't really sure how to correct it.. Will doing what you did get me to the point i need to be? The fork is old.. so I kinda was thinking that metal tang is worn out so not sure how I could fix that without replacing.

As I described up above you can fix the spring to hold the fork securely - or just buy a new fork from Brewers. My fork looked good other than the spring being sprung and the fork kind of loose on the pivot. It fits tight now. I think it may fix what you are observing but can’t be 100% sure. The springs on the TO bearing also need to be in good shape.

I drilled out the two rivets holding the spring tang and straightened it out and bent it slightly to apply some pressure to the fork when put back in place. I found 2 round head machine screws slightly larger than the old rivet holes and tapped the holes with a tap matching the screws. It tough going getting a tap through the fork, it must be some sort of tool steel. I screwed the tang back on with the screws and some red Loctite then trimmed most of the excess length of the screws off. It now securely holds the fork on the pivot.