Advice Appreciated: Before I begin restoring my trunk lid

[TT from NH]

I've been restoring my 68 Coronet and enjoy the challenge. Now I'm moving on to my trunk lid and would appreciate advice/insights from those who've gone before me. As you can see from the pictures, there's significant rust-through in the back corners, the latch area, and the back. I've already cut the latch area out since one of the bolt/nut fasteners had rusted through. And I've cleaned down to bare metal so I could detect if there are any other problem areas (there are none). Aside from general advice, I have some questions:

1. How does one remove the debris between the top and bottom pieces?
2. Do you recommend spraying something (like rust reformer or rust reformer) in between the top and bottom pieces?
3. Has anyone put a glob or three of sealant that will join the top to the bottom to stop the tinny sound when the trunk lid closes?

Thanks!

Terry

 

[pnora]

I would be looking for a better trunk lid.

 

[#41]

I also would try and find something else. But, if you wanna do it, you should separate the top and bottom by prying up the fold on the edge (carefully) with a chisel. This is a lot of work and you have to be very very careful or you will spend more time on this than you would imagine. I have done some door skins but never a deck lid. Knowing what I know from the doors, I would do everything within my power to find a more solid piece to start with!

 

[eldubb440]

I have a decent deck lid I've been sitting on for 20 years........on a scale of 1-10, I'd give it a 6.5; in comparison, that thing is a 1

 

[Jerry Hall]

I sold an entire 68 Coronet project because of a trunk lid about 10 years ago. The trunk lid on that car was better than what I've seen of yours. Good ones are pricey and rare. Best of luck on the repair of yours. Keep posting updates as you go, I would love to see you succeed.

 

[WileE]

See post #4.

 

[RJ Squirrel]

That one would be a challenge to fix! It would need the halves separated for sure. If you take the plunge this is the urethane dampener that goes in between.
I would try sweet talking Dubb first tho----

 

[dvw]

Fabbing the inner corners will be the toughest. My bet is it needs the entire rear vertical portion replaced. Can it be done? Yes, but it'll be pretty tough for a first timer. If you are not pretty good at welding sheet metal and are willing to learn hammer forming I'd say it's going to be very very difficult.
Doug

 

[68-500]

I myself would not even try to repair that. But I not a sheet metal guy. But you won’t be out nothing but some time and a little new metal. Giver hell.

 

[oldbee]

My rear lower edge was Swiss cheese hidden by my chrome trim edge(‘68). Thankfully, my body guy fabbed in a new fitted panel up to above the lock cylinder. He looked for a better lid for over a year, no luck.
I’d go with’eldubb’. Spray everything you can reach with ‘fluid film’ when it goes back together. Good luck.

 

[dadsbee]

69, but same deal...

 

[dadsbee]

 

[oldbee]

Kinda what Wayne went thru. Lid off and upside down.

 

[TT from NH]

View attachment 1940076View attachment 1940077

Thanks for the pics!

 

[TT from NH]

Fabbing the inner corners will be the toughest. My bet is it needs the entire rear vertical portion replaced. Can it be done? Yes, but it'll be pretty tough for a first timer. If you are not pretty good at welding sheet metal and are willing to learn hammer forming I'd say it's going to be very very difficult.
Doug

I don't have my 10,000 hours in yet having started only two years ago, but with eldubb's encouragement, I'm fearless. (Okay -- more confident than I likely have the right to be ) My tail panel was in much worse shape and I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out.... I agree with your assessment about fabbing the inner corners.

 

[TT from NH]

I have a decent deck lid I've been sitting on for 20 years........on a scale of 1-10, I'd give it a 6.5; in comparison, that thing is a 1

Challenge accepted. Let's see how I do with my deck; I may be back, Dave! (As you used to have in your tagline, "More miracles than Jesus!")

 

[TT from NH]

That one would be a challenge to fix! It would need the halves separated for sure. If you take the plunge this is the urethane dampener that goes in between.
I would try sweet talking Dubb first tho----

View attachment 1940019

Thanks for the tip about the dampening material, RJ. Help me understand why I would decide to separate the pieces. I know that the edges are rusted, but I believe that I can easily grind that out. The rear panel and edge will definitely need separation/replacement but I want to avoid separating the rest of the lid but will if I know why I should. I appreciate your (and others') insights on this point.

 

[BMosely]

I had the same issue on my ‘68. Close the lid and listen to the rust cascade down to the drain holes. I went fiberglass and solved a couple hundred hours of labor.