advice on front suspension options?

[68 Sport Satellite]

l

the reason I highly suggest tubular control arms, and really that and good shocks is what I would call the bare minimum for a great driver, is because the factory alignment specs are completely garbage.

You don’t really understand or feel until you can change those specs. I’m not an expert by any means, but based on my experience the biggest positive change is your caster. The caster if im not mistaken not only helps keep the car stable at speeds , but it also helps keep your camber where it needs to be through all motions, which helps steering. And the more camber you run, the more it improves.

IMO for what they are, they don’t handle bad from the factory. But you make this change, it will completely change your opinion on how these cars drive, and if you don’t take your car out much, it’ll make it more enjoyable and you’ll probably drive it more

speaking of camber, what camber do you like to run on the street? I'm running +4.5 caster and -1.0 camber. Should I go more negative camber? Not sure at what point camber starts eating tires or looking silly...I don't want to be able to see the camber when looking at the car, but open to suggestions on camber setting...

 

[Kern Dog]

I have idea.
Best answered by the person who raised the question in the first place and noted the conclusion of why C body Tie Rod upgrades are useful?
I only attempted to help clarify what action putting what strain on what item, the strain not being primary concern, but more its result.

If you were to compare the guys that change to the 11/16" C body tie rods to people that took unproven and pointless vaccines, (Under the impression that... well, it can't hurt so why not).... I would be immediately convinced and agree 100%.

 

[j-c-c-62]

Not a solid analogy, people have died from the vaccines targeted objective, and proof in either direction may still be developing and incoming, but there has been zero proof off track that in our street driven cars 11/16" TR provide ANY example of failure (or deaths) w/o 11/16" TR in typical use or show any improvement beyond bragging rights and as a benchmark to be able to join the herd that often quotes "well, it can't hurt so why not".

Shared with my guiding principle being, even if unrealized:

CRITICAL THINKERS* » Are aware their thinking is flawed » Think about how they think » Are curious and inquisitive » Separate their identity from their beliefs » Welcome criticism from others » Use evidence to arrive at conclusions and maintain a healthy level of skepticism » Avoid black and white thinking and are comfortable with ambiguity and uncertainty » Are humble

 

[j-c-c-62]

speaking of camber, what camber do you like to run on the street? I'm running +4.5 caster and -1.0 camber. Should I go more negative camber? Not sure at what point camber starts eating tires or looking silly...I don't want to be able to see the camber when looking at the car, but open to suggestions on camber setting...

For a street car with wide tires, I would say you are at the sweet spot regarding "aggressive" alignment. On the track even more negative camber is often beneficial.
Regarding looks just being able to spot any negative camber is a telltale the owner is handling oriented IMO. We are not talking here about the ridiculous negative ricer slammed crowd stuff. You will know when you start eating tires, and then have to decide, what fix you want, and if giving up that great turn response negative camber you gained is worth it.

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

l

speaking of camber, what camber do you like to run on the street? I'm running +4.5 caster and -1.0 camber. Should I go more negative camber? Not sure at what point camber starts eating tires or looking silly...I don't want to be able to see the camber when looking at the car, but open to suggestions on camber setting...

i can’t remember where exactly it landed but I shot for -.75 - 1 degree and got pretty close to -1 degree .

 

[Budnicks]

not sure how much it will help but;

QA1 & SPC minus the brakes & spindles
on my 68 RR

weight of all parts suspension stuff combined with an single *

*all parts below
*shipped weight are 38#s combined, including hardware
click on photos says part #s, a few misc. parts

explanations, ramblings
my Last Silver/Black 68 RR alum headed 479cid lowdeck,
I was doing 2 cars, mine & another friends car
to offset the expense of buying & building mine
suspension in/on both & I got stuck with the bill for & all the parts below,
(his wife pulled the plug)
among a couple other parts like 7 qt 7" deep Milodon oil pan & pick up
remote 2 Oil filter system, & Front & rear sway bars
(Sway bars & remote filters now on my current 68 RR)
a few others too more then just QA1 suspension parts
haven't decided what to use them on yet...

I have no idea what all
the take off OE stamped steel/flexy flyer parts
& org. K-member weights were
but;
all OE stuff were heavier for sure, maybe 30#s or so heavier, combined
more then the sum of the tubular parts alone, it's not 1/2 the weight, like some say it is
but;
when I weighed/scaled the car
the nose of the car was nearly 70#s lighter,
Win Win for handling
& racing (weight transfer), tire wear, suspension/shock wear
or un-sprung or sprung weight alike etc.

but;
I did a couple other things & added weight back,
7" dep 7 qt Mildon Oli pan & HP/thicker HV oil pump, remote 2 Oil filter system
thicker 3 core MRE custom radiator, but still alum,
w/2 electric fans & electric motor water pump, considerably heavier,
big sway bar, 1-3/8" solid 'heavy' Summit brand, front & 1" adj. rear
(water pump stuff)
some maybe a wash with the factory steel non-clutch heavy 5 blade fan ? deleted,
for the org. brass core 22" rad, replaced with 22" MRE custom 3 core alum.
&
when I forced to use the org. but now Ported/smoothed off HP 68-70 Cast Iron,
OE style heavy exhaust manifolds, w/3" head pipes
added like 20#s
2 times the weight of the Heddman mid-length headers I had

anyway;
because the headers wouldn't fit, because of the Unisteer "bolt in Rack & Pinion"
was in the way of the collectors, $1,000, I'll figure something else out
was gathering parts for a custom set of up swept & back style S/S headers

*Tubular K-member QA1, to be able to use the torsion bars still, not coil over

*QA1 Tubular & adj. dynamic strut rods

*2 Tubular LCAs QA1,
w/front sway bar attachment welded on already & pivots/bushings installed

*Tubular UCA are heavy, are not QA1's (QA1s are lighter) fixed lengths/or adj. too see bottom
they are 2 SPC dbl adj. on the car, R & L
easily get what ever angles & degrees you want
w/replaceable greaseable upper ball joints

***the Adjust. old QA1' were lighter, not included in the 38#s
I'm sure they are lighter then the SPC's

*Unisteer 5-1/2" long tie-rod ends for more adj. with my Bolt in Unisteer rack & pinion
I wouldn't recommend the rack & pinion, really limits Header/s choice/s
they are heavy but good addition, deeper threads

*& stock new Moog lower ball joins/steering arms for a B-Body 68 RR
not shown