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Air compressor wiring

Robliepse

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I'm finalizing my shop wiring and adding the 220v circuit for the yet to be purchased air compressor. I understand the baisics of AC wiring and load ratings but I'm unclear if I should install a 3 prong outlet or a 4. I'll most likely purchase the 5A Ingersol compressor from Northern took andctheir specs are not very clear. Any advice will be appreciated
 
3 ( 2 hots and a ground) are typically whats required unless you have one that has an intergrated 110v dryer, tank blowdown ect...
 
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Thanks, I'm going around 100", will 10 gauge be enough ?
 
If it's 3-phase, you would use the 4 prong, but doubtful your house is wired for 3 phase. Also, I've always seen 3 phase wired directly into a fused safety switch.
 
#10 would be the correct size for a 30 amp circuit. That will work great for the compressor. Use 10-3 with ground romex ,2 hots a neutral and ground
 
I would use 8 on a 30 amp, theres a lot of inrush current at start up. Also something to consider depending on the size of the motor you may need a motor starter with heaters ( thermal overload motor protection). Breakers protect the wire not neccassarily the equipment...
 
Most modern compressor motors have built in overload protection. If not it would need overload protection.
 
I wired mine with a 3 prong and 6 gauge just incase I ever go really big but also because that's what I was running for welding outlets. 10 gauge and a 30amp circuit will handle most typical shop compressors.
 
Most modern compressor motors have built in overload protection. If not it would need overload protection.
Our IR 80gal 5 Up didn't, I don't have my code book in front of me ends its been a while since I've looked at 430, but I think anything over 7.5 requires it. You can get free access to NFPA and look up 70.430...
 
I have a code book. Have had since 1989 when I started as an IBEW apprentice
 
Sounds like we have some good expierenced electricians here. Final question 10 or 8?
 
If the compressor you buy has overload protection built in secondary protection isn't needed.
If not you will need overload protection for the motor.
You really need only 3 wires to the compressor 2 hots and a ground having a neutral there is
optional. You may want a tank heater there or some type of automatic tank drain if so then you would need the neutral. #10 will do the Job and do it well #8 would be
a un needed expense.
 
As has already been said, 10 AWG will meet code for a 30 amp circuit.
You are only going 100', so voltage drop will not be an issue.
 
I know Bee is disagreeing but my opi ion if your compressor is rated for 24 amps or greater you need to run #8 which isn't really all that more expensive. Remember the code is the minimum requirement.
30 x 80%( % of the allowed loading of the breaker) = 24 amps. Or your breaker has to be sized 125% of the nameplate basically.
Also if the compressor you are choosing has marginal c.f.m rating for the the work you are going to be doing its going to run longer.
Ya I still have my NJATC Book from 93...I'm a Master Electrician from Tx LU 512 Austin, transfered my ticket to 716 before I retired from the field...whatever that's worth..:D
If you have a true 240volts at the panel & nameplate amperage of 24 and 100' distance, you are allowed a 7volt drop (3%), with a #10 you will have a 6volt drop, #8 you will be less than 4 volts...
 
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at this point, we really need to know what the OP is buying.
It would have to be a monster to require more than a 220v, 30 amp feed.
 
Just saw this thread...got some sparkys in fbbo land nice! Local 100 Fresno CA here..OP, probably a little overkill but if you can swing it use #8 it will avoid any issues later on..but yep motor full amps should determine.
 
IBEW Local 3 -----23 year member.... Dont know much about wiring as i was just a millwright/welder in power generation. I do know A card holders union journeyman electricians are top skilled in there trade. Nobody else comes close
 
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