Alignment numbers to look for?

[70ChargerRT]

All the old school alignment guys have retired I’ve used in the past and Im kind of Leary of these new guys and new machines lol. I’m going to install my Baer 13” brakes this week and take it to an alignment shop in a couple weeks and a question for the suspension gurus. I’m just wondering what numbers I should be looking for in the front end? I’m using Qa1 upper tubulars that have 3 degrees of caster built in them and I also have Qa1 adjustable strut rods. I’d just want to see if my alignment guy gives me a similar answer to what you pros on here tell me. Thanks for any help

 

[Cranky]

How much negative camber can you get and what are you expecting from the car?? I'm one that likes a lot of negative with a lower than factory ride height......as far as numbers go, I like what feels good to me!

 

[ruffcut]

I can't speak to any #s but had both my cars set up on them new fangled machines and had good results. The '63 goes 130+ MPH and drives great. JMO ruffcut

 

[70ChargerRT]

How much negative camber can you get?? I'm one that likes a lot of that with a lower than factory ride height......as far as numbers go, I like what feels good to me!

I don’t have a clue about numbers. It’s probably 2” lower than factory ride height. The last time I had it aligned I had off set bushings and everything was stock and the older old guys did a dang good job but I may be overthinking it with this newer generation. Maybe they’ll do a good job?

 

[Cranky]

I can't speak to any #s but had both my cars set up on them new fangled machines and had good results. The '63 goes 130+ MPH and drives great. JMO ruffcut

Drag race car?

 

[70ChargerRT]

I can't speak to any #s but had both my cars set up on them new fangled machines and had good results. The '63 goes 130+ MPH and drives great. JMO ruffcut

I don’t know if I ever want to stretch my T-56 Magnum out but I do want it to feel good. I know the Borgeson Steering made it feel a lot better despite the damn leak that just started at the pitman arm seal that Borgeson says never leaks that has under 1000 miles on it.

 

[Cranky]

I don’t have a clue about numbers. It’s probably 2” lower than factory ride height. The last time I had it aligned I had off set bushings and everything was stock and the older old guys did a dang good job but I may be overthinking it with this newer generation. Maybe they’ll do a good job?

Well, after having a couple of different 'alignment' shops tell me what I needed and it not doing what I wanted, I 'learnt' how to do my own alignments. The tools are out there and there is some trial and error involved. It's not all that hard once you learn what's what.

 

[70ChargerRT]

Well, after having a couple of different 'alignment' shops tell me what I needed and it not doing what I wanted, I 'learnt' how to do my own alignments. The tools are out there and there is some trial and error involved. It's not all that hard once you learn what's what.

Good lord. Just what I wanted to hear, lol.

 

[RemCharger]

The toe and camber are fairly easy if you have a good eye for level. The caster is challenging with out anything to measure with

 

[Cranky]

Good lord. Just what I wanted to hear, lol.

The car in question was a 66 Belvedere (still is) with a /6 with working factory AC so I figure it was the same front end weight as a small block with no AC. It eventually ended up with a 4.10 rear end but still had the 'hard' numbers in the front end which didn't seem to hurt on the 1/4 mile. Even with no sway bars, it acted like it had them. The car was lowered to within 1" of the stops on the front end and the rear had original worn out flat springs. Nuts eh. It had 235-75-15 all the way around on 15x7 cop car wheels. In theory, that combo should never have worked but it did. I'm one that goes for the odd combos mostly because I use what I have on hand and the odd combos continue to surprise me. Keep in mind that with a lot of negative camber, you need to add a bit more toe in to compensate a bit for tire wear....depending on the size tires you run on the front. Imo, wider tires won't need or like much more toe in over stock....

 

[gtxdana]

You pretty much can never go wrong with .5 degrees negative camber and as much positive (3-6+) degrees caster as you can get for something that handles decent and won't eat the tires. Depending on the steering type, tire width, etc., 0-3mm toe-in will get you in the ballpark.

 

[ruffcut]

Well, after having a couple of different 'alignment' shops tell me what I needed and it not doing what I wanted, I 'learnt' how to do my own alignments. The tools are out there and there is some trial and error involved. It's not all that hard once you learn what's what.

Yes, back in the olden days, we did our own alignment without high tech equipment.

 

[toolmanmike]

All the old school alignment guys have retired I’ve used in the past and Im kind of Leary of these new guys and new machines lol. I’m going to install my Baer 13” brakes this week and take it to an alignment shop in a couple weeks and a question for the suspension gurus. I’m just wondering what numbers I should be looking for in the front end? I’m using Qa1 upper tubulars that have 3 degrees of caster built in them and I also have Qa1 adjustable strut rods. I’d just want to see if my alignment guy gives me a similar answer to what you pros on here tell me. Thanks for any help

Here's what you need! Following the SKOSH chart - your experiences?

 

[Cranky]

Here's what you need! Following the SKOSH chart - your experiences?

I know my specs weren't too close to those except maybe for the toe in lol

 

[#41]

You have a lot of fancy suspension parts for just going on ice cream runs, but it sound like this is a street car. Assuming so, and that you have power steering, go for 3-4 degrees of caster. Camber set to zero. Toe set at zero assuming your suspension is newer. If the suspension is a little worn a 1/16 to an 1/8th of toe-in can help.

 

[Kern Dog]

Come on, man…ZERO camber ???

Radial tires can handle negative camber and still wear normally.
I’ve run 3/4 degree (.75) of negative camber with low profiles for going on 20 years and my tires wear evenly.
That “ Skosh Chart” is a bit stingy on caster. I run 5.5 degrees on the left, 5 degrees on the right. 1/8” toe in.
Why?
Negative camber allows the tread of the outside front tire to remain perpendicular to the pavement as the body leans during hard turns.
Positive caster aids in straight line stability. It makes the steering want to remain straight. It helps the steering return to center after turning. The only real drawback to high caster numbers is additional steering effort.
You want some toe IN especially with wide, sticky tires. The drag of the tires tends to push the toe out so by setting the toe IN a slight amount, it is like walking and leaning into the wind.

 

[toolmanmike]

Come on, man…ZERO camber ???

View attachment 1455768

Radial tires can handle negative camber and still wear normally.
I’ve run 3/4 degree (.75) of negative camber with low profiles for going on 20 years and my tires wear evenly.
That “ Skosh Chart” is a bit stingy on caster. I run 5.5 degrees on the left, 5 degrees on the right. 1/8” toe in.
Why?
Negative camber allows the tread of the outside front tire to remain perpendicular to the pavement as the body leans during hard turns.
Positive caster aids in straight line stability.it makes the steering want to remain straight. It helps the steering return to center after turning. The only real drawback to high caster numbers is additional steering effort.
You want some toe IN especially with wide, sticky tires. The drag of the tires tends to push the toe out so by setting the toe IN a slight amount, it is like walking and leaning into the wind.

What chu' talkin bout Willis!

 

[70ChargerRT]

You have a lot of fancy suspension parts for just going on ice cream runs, but it sound like this is a street car. Assuming so, and that you have power steering, go for 3-4 degrees of caster. Camber set to zero. Toe set at zero assuming your suspension is newer. If the suspension is a little worn a 1/16 to an 1/8th of toe-in can help.

Ice cream runs?? Hell yeah imma going to do that also lol.

 

[69L48Z27]

0-.25* camber
6-8* caster
1/8” total toe in.

Caster and camber will chase each other depending on your aftermarket parts.

Old school tech will adjust caster a smidge for road crown.

 

[70ChargerRT]

Come on, man…ZERO camber ???

View attachment 1455768

Radial tires can handle negative camber and still wear normally.
I’ve run 3/4 degree (.75) of negative camber with low profiles for going on 20 years and my tires wear evenly.
That “ Skosh Chart” is a bit stingy on caster. I run 5.5 degrees on the left, 5 degrees on the right. 1/8” toe in.
Why?
Negative camber allows the tread of the outside front tire to remain perpendicular to the pavement as the body leans during hard turns.
Positive caster aids in straight line stability. It makes the steering want to remain straight. It helps the steering return to center after turning. The only real drawback to high caster numbers is additional steering effort.
You want some toe IN especially with wide, sticky tires. The drag of the tires tends to push the toe out so by setting the toe IN a slight amount, it is like walking and leaning into the wind.

Thanks for that info. I’m running 245/45 17r tires on the front. Everything is new again in the front, Qa1 upper and lower tubulars, 1 1/8 Sway Arm, Qa1 adjustable strut rods, 1.03 T Bars, Vikings Dual Adjustable shocks and the Borgeson steering.