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Alternator Output Spec?

Moparfiend

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Trying to find the alternator output spec on my alternator. The Excide number is 192064. Can’t find any web information.

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yOU ACTUALLY HAVE TO TEST IT WHO KNOWS WHAT IT IS INTERNALLY? 35-60-100?
 
yOU ACTUALLY HAVE TO TEST IT WHO KNOWS WHAT IT IS INTERNALLY? 35-60-100?
Yeah since I can’t find anything on it I’ll pull it and bring it in. Wonder what shop can actually test is acceptably. Is there an RPM range that I need to give? Meaning is the current proportional to the RPM or does it hit max current at idle or just above idle rpm?
 
Welp I’ve found a good old alternator shop near me. Thats all they do. We plopped it on the tester and the guy said the same thing. Its a reman and probably no more than 50A if that. He controlled the regulator and spun it up. 35A then 50A then 80A and peaked at 109A we both looked at each other like wow. This is the first good luck thing I’ve I think I have had with this car lol. He said there is no way he could build a Mopar alternator with that power. A Delco yes but a Mopar nope.
 
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What accessories are you running that require a 100+ amp alt?
 
Welp I’ve found a good old alternator shop near me. Thats all they do. We plopped it on the tester and the guy said the same thing. Its a reman and probably no more than 50A if that. He controlled the regulator and spun it up. 35A then 50A then 80A and peaked at 109A we both looked at each other like wow. This is the first good luck thing I’ve I think I have had with this car lol. He said there is no way he could build a Mopar alternator with that power. A Delco yes but a Mopar nope.
see halifaxhops was right testing did show i was wrong :lol:
 
What accessories are you running that require a 100+ amp alt?
I am running duel fans on an AC car. I never said I needed a 100A alternator. What I do understand is that many factory alternators are not very powerful and are the weak link in the system along with the single black line to the amp gauge.
I am planing to run an additional line from the alternator to the load side of the amp gauge.
 
I am running duel fans on an AC car. I never said I needed a 100A alternator. What I do understand is that many factory alternators are not very powerful and are the weak link in the system along with the single black line to the amp gauge.
I am planing to run an additional line from the alternator to the load side of the amp gauge.
Running (2) fans and incadescent headlights the total load will be > 50AMPs continuous...
I would recommend that U double-check and possibly upgrade the complete OE wiring system..

Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:
 
Trying to find the alternator output spec on my alternator. The Excide number is 192064. Can’t find any web information.

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The alternator should be load tested per FSM specs. Most ofvtge time, the alternator is a three phase full wave bridge rectifier circuit. But The actual amperage is determined by: stator windings (and their winding wire gauge, per slotand corresponding impedance and how their connected EITHER in star or delta configuration), capacity of the diodes, the rotating field windings and the excitation voltage and the ALTERNATOR's RPM (not engine RPM's) at test conditions. From the pixs, its a remanufactured unit that has all the original factory IDs sand blasted off. Just my opinion of course.......there are the usual expert's that will likely disagree.......
BOB RENTON
 
Running (2) fans and incadescent headlights the total load will be > 50AMPs continuous...
I would recommend that U double-check and possibly upgrade the complete OE wiring system..

Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:
Done!

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Welp I’ve found a good old alternator shop near me. Thats all they do. We plopped it on the tester and the guy said the same thing. Its a reman and probably no more than 50A if that. He controlled the regulator and spun it up. 35A then 50A then 80A and peaked at 109A we both looked at each other like wow. This is the first good luck thing I’ve I think I have had with this car lol. He said there is no way he could build a Mopar alternator with that power. A Delco yes but a Mopar nope.

first, that’s a revised squareback alt version which is a bit wider than earliers including a wider stator, from late 70s and up to late 80s. Laters were able to provide up to 80 amps from factory on some setups althought most of them rated on 60-65 amps on standard equipments cars.

Interesting it reached up to 109 amps! But how much at 1800-2000 rpms? If you got around 55 amps or even more at that speed you got a winner! More capacity at the lower speed as posible makes to keep the car up more from alt than from the batt to feed the more accesories as posible without discharge on regular street use...

A regular stock 80 amps alt is able to give around 40-45 amps at that speed, which is approximately iddle speed depending on pulleys.
 
first, that’s a revised squareback alt version which is a bit wider than earliers including a wider stator, from late 70s and up to late 80s. Laters were able to provide up to 80 amps from factory on some setups althought most of them rated on 60-65 amps on standard equipments cars.

Interesting it reached up to 109 amps! But how much at 1800-2000 rpms? If you got around 55 amps or even more at that speed you got a winner! More capacity at the lower speed as posible makes to keep the car up more from alt than from the batt to feed the more accesories as posible without discharge on regular street use...

A regular stock 80 amps alt is able to give around 40-45 amps at that speed, which is approximately iddle speed depending on pulleys.
Thanks Nacho was waiting to hear from you on this post! Yeah even though it hit 109 Amps peak I would nominally de-rate this at least 20% for thermal dissipation under steady state load. That would put it at around 70A-80A.
 
The alternator I took off my car had a double pulley for A/C on a non A/C 383 car. It was rated at 60 amp, that’s getting replaced with a 55 amp single pulley non A/C alternator.
 
Testing an alt is kind of like dynoing an engine. The printout is awesome .
 
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