Alternator upgrade

[Coronet R/T 68]

I have a 68 coronet that I upgraded the distributor to electronic ignition and I run into issues of not having enough juice to fire the coil after it runs for awhile and I shut it off. Looking to upgrade my alternator to a 86 diplomat that runs at 75 amp. Also going to the solid state regulator. Just a general question. If I was to go higher I hear about possible issues with frying my wires. My question is, wouldn't the regulator monitor and restrict how much amps went back to my gauges?

 

[WileERobby]

In all my years I've never heard of having to upgrade the alternator for an electronic ignition conversion.

 

[mopar 3 B]

After a cold start what is the voltage to the coil? Also alternator output will do nothing to aid starting a hot engine as it does nothing till the engine starts.

If it needs more juice go to a larger amperage battery.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

I have a 68 coronet that I upgraded the distributor to electronic ignition and I run into issues of not having enough juice to fire the coil after it runs for awhile and I shut it off. Looking to upgrade my alternator to a 86 diplomat that runs at 75 amp. Also going to the solid state regulator. Just a general question. If I was to go higher I hear about possible issues with frying my wires. My question is, wouldn't the regulator monitor and restrict how much amps went back to my gauges?

Uhhhh..... I don't think it's your alternator. The ignition system requires almost no voltage at all to operate. Once the car is started, you could almost run the ignition on flashlight batteries.

What exactly makes you think the ignition is not getting enough power? What does the engine do? We will help you work this out.

 

[69a100]

In all my years I've never heard of having to upgrade the alternator for an electronic ignition conversion.

Because you just got's to do it or it just won't work right!
To the OP, I don't know what the solid state unit is? If it's the little black box, that won't cut it!
http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Electrical/charging.htm

There are a number of reasons one might want to upgrade a per-1970 system to a transistorized voltage regulator. The list of reason include

• Chrysler recommends you switch to a transistorized VR if you upgrade to an electronic ignition from a points style ignition.
• If you have to buy a new voltage regulator, the difference in cost is only about $5-10 more for the transistorized unit. Not to mention, the quality of replacement early style VR's is spotty.
• The transistorized VR will have a longer life.

 

[Coronet R/T 68]

I agree, the alternator does nothing for the ignition till it starts but I don't think it's giving enough amp to the battery while it's running to maintain a sufficient charge. Voltage at the battery when car is running doesn't go over 12.4 volts. Lights are dim at a idle. Switched to a top street performance electronic distributor and coil and it requires so many volts to operate correctly. It fired right up when I jumped it off another car. The solid state style voltage regulator is from the 70 and later style, flatter and wider. Its supposed to be much better than the old mechanical relay. Hot rod did a article on the switch over, I'd post a link if I can figure out how.

 

[Coronet R/T 68]

Here it is
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-0112-electronic-voltage-regulator-and-alternator/

 

[mopar 3 B]

If you are going to upgrade get a 60 amp alternator wiring diagram and do it right the first time. Alternator juice goes to battery. Amp load is monitored between fuse box and battery.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Amp load is monitored between batt and main splice on underdash harness. Fuse box is just part of that splice.

Alternator juice feeds firtst that splice, then If batt demands for recharge, this load will be monitored. If batt is full then load won't run throught the amm, but will keep juicing the main splice

 

[WileERobby]

Because you just got's to do it or it just won't work right!
To the OP, I don't know what the solid state unit is? If it's the little black box, that won't cut it!
http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Electrical/charging.htm

There are a number of reasons one might want to upgrade a per-1970 system to a transistorized voltage regulator. The list of reason include

• Chrysler recommends you switch to a transistorized VR if you upgrade to an electronic ignition from a points style ignition.
• If you have to buy a new voltage regulator, the difference in cost is only about $5-10 more for the transistorized unit. Not to mention, the quality of replacement early style VR's is spotty.
• The transistorized VR will have a longer life.

Done many & NEVER changed the alternator. Hmmm. Better check my car, has the stock alternator & electronic ignition. For 20 years, now.

 

[Coronet R/T 68]

I've decided I want to replace my ammeter with a voltmeter in my dash. If I do that, does that free up the option to run a higher amp alternator without risking frying my wires? I'm currently working on redoing the bulkhead wiring.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

You can run a higher amp alt still on stock ammeter, trust me. And in fact a bigger capacity alt is SAFER to the amm than a stock capacity alt. Search around what Inhave explained about and why. Couple of extra wires to save the bulkhead and done

However its at your own, but will be nice try to learnt about first, before take the decission