american autowire harness
- Thread starter redman
- Start date
ckessel
Well-Known Member
Engine bay gets hit with the high heat which causes issues but if you are diving in, you need to do bumper to bumper. Insulation still gets hard/stiff even out of the heat, wire corrodes, connections corrode, chaffing etc. BTW: get a pair of their crimpers for our and [cough cough] gm connectors. I picked some up as I needed a better setup for making the crimps on our connectors and I give them a two thumbs up. Way better than the Pertronix unit I normally used or the universals from others.
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been working on the wiring again have to say it seemed very overwhelming when you first open the box with all the packages but, the blue print style directions have helped. I read ahead and think about it and read again a couple times then actually do it. there is an extra plug for accessories off the fuse box that controls power windows locks, electric fuel pump etc. since i have no power stuff on my car i will be using this for some extra stuff throughout the car. just about finished up the tail lights of the rear body wiring, this is where the crimper comes into play (works very good, you absolutely have to have this.) because you have to custom cut, fit and crimp the connectors on, everything.
specs a ground wire that loops through all the tail lights so no more fked up systems for not grounding, it took me about 6 hours with sleeving everything in cloth shrinkable braided sleeving, gives it a close to factory style look, covers the colors up and adds some protection. after messing with old wires on cars, this is system is definately worth purchasing if your doing a complete resto that is not factory correct.
ckessel
Well-Known Member
While you are stringing spaghetti, add in some extra grounds even beyond what the new stuff comes with. Can't have enough return paths.
rlem1977
Well-Known Member
Was thinking about this option. Does AAW provide all of the bulb sockets in this kit? Or do you have reuse/buy new ones? Thanks.
new sockets are supplied for dome, tailights, side running lights. did not have some like for glove box, ash tray, and map light.
thanks, and yes i was hesitant to do this, also nearly a grand for this system, but after installation started, worth every penny. i can see years worth of trouble free electrical on this car. suppling power to everything i can dream up.
VitaMeVas
Well-Known Member
Hey Don....I've ordered the same kit and am in the middle of putting some sound deadener in the interior first. I've been reading over the installation instructions and I'm curious where you mounted the megafuse 175 it comes with? I have a 68 Satellite with a stroked 318 and will be upgrading to a one wire alternator also. Also, what kind of braided wire sleeve did you use rather than the cloth tape?? Thanks.....Jeremy in NW Iowa
mine did not come with the megafuse, bummer, if I had one it would be close to the battery for maximum effectiveness. the sleeving is similar to this link, comes in different sizes. I got a variety used mainly small diameter for under hood. looks like this it now comes in different colors too. I also stowed an extra wire in each main harness areas, for future use. I used a heat gun to shrink it. cut it a little long it will shrink in length also heat evenly on all sides it turns out better to shrink it evenly and a heat gun will cook it if you heat it too long makes it stiff. https://www.amazon.com/All-Sizes-Colors-5-100-Polyolefin/dp/B0773ZGQQV
after the starter of course, probably before the relay.
451Mopar
Well-Known Member
VitaMeVas
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the suggestions. I decided to go with Alex Tech braided/open from Amazon. I want to be able to add/remove wires if needed without tearing it all apart.
yes those are nice, I was going for the look of the old wire looms, shooting for more original looking, not as shinny as those, good luck
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