• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Ammeter decision

moparjohnny

Well-Known Member
Local time
11:45 AM
Joined
Jan 26, 2011
Messages
2,141
Reaction score
552
Location
ga
I know there are a few fixes for this problem out there,but i want to hear from people who have tried robs version of the fix he is also known as crackedback on the forum,he has two cables of different gauges and one has the fuse link attached depends on what amp battery you use,his seem to be much quicker does his give the results of releiving most power going thru bulk head? Thanks to everyone for responce.
 
Last edited:
I looked at this mod and came to the conclusion that the only detriment to the ammeter thing was mainly at the bulk head connector where there does not exist a positive contact point. Arcing is the real problem. I see nothing wrong with ammeters except when you exceed 60 amps or have any kind of connection joint in the wires to and from the gauge. To this end, if new wires were run like Rob does ( of heavier gauges ) I would think that this would suffice. I run a 130 amp G3 alternator so the ammeter deffinitely had to go. Remember that back in the day Mopars weren't burning to the ground by the hundreds because of the ammeter, it was only a problem after a good number of years when joint contacts started to corrode and arc, and, even a low amperage charging system could produce a very hot arc at the bulkhead connector. IMOO I would bypass the gauge and opt for a voltmeter especially if the vehicle is of high value.
An once of prevention means a smaller fire extinguisher.
 
I went with a modified version of the M.A.D. electrical ammeter bypass. I ran the alternator charge wire directly to the starter relay VIA a fusible link, then powered up the interior of the car with a 10ga wire from the starter relay. No ammeter wiring inside, no charging current inside, only 12v battery power. I'll add that this was done at the same time as when I changed to a new guage cluster that had a voltmeter.
 
I did the same thing as Kern Dog, basically a modified version of the M.A.D bypass and added a volt meter. I also use a simple battery post switch and cut off the 12v to the car if it's going to be sitting any length of time, no sense in taking any chances with 50 year old wiring.
 
Ammeter is dead. Zero anything. No connection. Based on the horror stories. If it is not charging, it won't start. Don't care. Have enough fire risk without this. I'll bump start it.
 
Most importat,,,,reroute that power wire that goes through the bulkhead,up to the ignition switch,then back out the bulkhead. That's the one that also goes across the ammeter.

That's the one dozens of us have fried,,,LMOL:blob1:
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top