The engine/trans will be test fit this weekend and I'll find out. SST sent me the trans with rear shifter position along with a shifter and instructions for installing in the front position. The neutral safety sw doesn't work in the front shifter position.
And So It Begins - Tremec TKX Conversion Into A 64 Polara
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Charlie Brown
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Different cars will have different shifter locations. What car do you have? In regards to the neutral switch, you are correct that the forward mount does not have one, but that's easy to overcome. I just mounted a brake light switch to the clutch pedal. If you have an early B body, the rear shifter position will likely not work very well.
Charlie Brown
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2000
Perfect sweetspot. Nice roll on.
I dropped in a Gen III with the TKX this weekend and the trans is too low by over inch. The floor hits first. That's easy for me to resolve by cutting and welding in new sheet metal or pounding clearance. The frame above the TKX shifter location will interfere next. I'm not sure how to resolve without causing structural weakness. Any experience or advice?
The car is a 1964 Dodge 330. Was a 727.
Good luck on the install..
The Tremac is a great transmission.
Keep us advised of ur progress...
Just my $0.02...
The Tremac is a great transmission.
Keep us advised of ur progress...
Just my $0.02...
Nevermind the guys at SST figured out the problem. They machine the tailpiece and install a recessed cover for the rear two shifter locations. Photo attached. I do that to my trans.
Charlie Brown
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After about 200 miles of dirving on my new TKX, I'm pretty happy with the results. I've yet to "lean" on it though. Break in reccomendations say to put 500 mules on the trans and 1200 - 1500 cycles on the clutch / pressure plate combo. The one thing I have noticed is that I can feel what seems to me is some vibration under power (half throttle) via the shifter handle. I'm not sure if this is normal or not. I'm new to manual shift transmissions, so I'm not sure what to feel / expect. Perhaps others could offer their experience in this regard. All components are installed within specs. I am however, going to re-measuer driveline angles.
So here a few observations about the TKX swap journey.
- This kit was sold as a "Perfect Fit" install (For early B Bodies) - it's not. As sold, the biggest issue is the hydraulic clutch mounting system. It's supposed to work with factory pedals. It doesn't. Without considerble modifications to the factory pedal / firewall mods, the kit as supplied will not work - not even close. I suppose if supplied literature told you about these issues, at least you would know. Better still, the supplied kit should be upgraded to fit properly.
- my communication with SST at the beginning went very well. Prompt replies and some suggested remidies to the clutch pedal issues. They even made proto type master cylinder mount. In the end, this part did not work. After this, and trying to work with them to find an alternate soulution, SST went silent - no response to my ongoing enquires. Some of this group may think I'm one of those PITA kind of person, but I just wanted a correct solution for an incorrect install kit and I would think this would benefit future clients.
- If modifications to the factorty pedal assembly are not addressed in the supplied install kit, I would stongly look into an after market pedal kit.
- There are tunnel mods to be made. The biggest area of concern is the transmission crossmember "reinforcement bumps" on the floor pan. There's work to be done in this area to get the trans high enough. The supplied trans cross member is a bit flimsy and in my opinion, should be reinforced.
- make sure you check all flywheel threads - mine needed all the threads chased.
- The shifter handle supplied works perfectly for me - as noted in my posts, all that was needed was a slight tweek where it mounted to the trans.
- The supplied clutch allignment tool is junk. Buy, borrow or steal a proper unit - steel preferred. You'll be a happier camper. For a few extra dollars SST could have supplied a better option. The plastic one supplied is total junk.
- In regards to clutch pedal height and throw. I was very carefull to insure that I had the required clutch master cylinder travel, which is spec'ed out at 1.4 inches. At present, my clutch pedal is proud / higher than the brake pedal by several inches - which is not a big deal, but I'm noticing that I've got a lot of free play before clutch engagement. So after the break in periods, I'm sure I'll be able to shorten up the pedal travel. At that point, I'll also install a pedal stop.
Hopefully by mid summer I'll be able to make some full power shifts and see what that brings.
As a final note, at highway speeds (70 mph), my tach shows 2000 rpm. This is with 3:55 gearing, 28 inch tall tires and .68 overdrive.
So here a few observations about the TKX swap journey.
- This kit was sold as a "Perfect Fit" install (For early B Bodies) - it's not. As sold, the biggest issue is the hydraulic clutch mounting system. It's supposed to work with factory pedals. It doesn't. Without considerble modifications to the factory pedal / firewall mods, the kit as supplied will not work - not even close. I suppose if supplied literature told you about these issues, at least you would know. Better still, the supplied kit should be upgraded to fit properly.
- my communication with SST at the beginning went very well. Prompt replies and some suggested remidies to the clutch pedal issues. They even made proto type master cylinder mount. In the end, this part did not work. After this, and trying to work with them to find an alternate soulution, SST went silent - no response to my ongoing enquires. Some of this group may think I'm one of those PITA kind of person, but I just wanted a correct solution for an incorrect install kit and I would think this would benefit future clients.
- If modifications to the factorty pedal assembly are not addressed in the supplied install kit, I would stongly look into an after market pedal kit.
- There are tunnel mods to be made. The biggest area of concern is the transmission crossmember "reinforcement bumps" on the floor pan. There's work to be done in this area to get the trans high enough. The supplied trans cross member is a bit flimsy and in my opinion, should be reinforced.
- make sure you check all flywheel threads - mine needed all the threads chased.
- The shifter handle supplied works perfectly for me - as noted in my posts, all that was needed was a slight tweek where it mounted to the trans.
- The supplied clutch allignment tool is junk. Buy, borrow or steal a proper unit - steel preferred. You'll be a happier camper. For a few extra dollars SST could have supplied a better option. The plastic one supplied is total junk.
- In regards to clutch pedal height and throw. I was very carefull to insure that I had the required clutch master cylinder travel, which is spec'ed out at 1.4 inches. At present, my clutch pedal is proud / higher than the brake pedal by several inches - which is not a big deal, but I'm noticing that I've got a lot of free play before clutch engagement. So after the break in periods, I'm sure I'll be able to shorten up the pedal travel. At that point, I'll also install a pedal stop.
Hopefully by mid summer I'll be able to make some full power shifts and see what that brings.
As a final note, at highway speeds (70 mph), my tach shows 2000 rpm. This is with 3:55 gearing, 28 inch tall tires and .68 overdrive.
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