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Another cam selection thread.

I think what you're planning is almost exactly what Ron (383Man) did with his previous motor. I think it went 11.50s at 116 regularly, or something like that.

Hope he posts.

Yes your right as my old 906 headed 440 ran a best of 11.49 @ 116 using the MP .557 cam and Hedman 1-3/4 headers. You can click my link in my sig and it tells of my old 440 build and my 493 build. Thanks BSB67. Ron
 
You can get a custom ground cam for about the same price as over the counter cam from Dwayne Porter. I run one of his sloid flat tappets in my 63 that is 26 & 270 @ .050 with .585 & .592 lift on o 110 LSA and I also use EDM lifters. And I love it in my 440/493 combo. As for ditching the dual plane...…..to me it depends allot on how you use the car. I run the Indy dual plane and I like it since I do mostly street driving and my street car has run 10.70's @ 125 mph. We can all recommend a cam for you and many on here are very good but guys like Dwayne Porter do it everyday for a living and he dyno's the engines to see what works and what does not. You can call Dwayne if you like at 802-951-5074 and just tell him 383man told you to call. He is a very nice guy to work with and he knows cams as good as anyone I know of. I am very happy with the flat tappet solid he speced for my combo. Ron

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Ron, isnt his planned car/engine combo very much like your previous set up? Exceptions being heads (ported 906 vs E-Street), intake (SD vs RPM) and gear (4.30 vs 3.73)?
 
Well, thank you 383man, finally someone that can give me a good suggestion on a solid camshaft.
Read all about your car and I'm very impressed with your old and new setup.
Switching to a singel plane intake on my engine will never happen sinse I street drive mine for 90% of the time and I know my intake kan handle more airflow then my combo needs.
What I need is more in real life suggestions on solid cams like the one you posted. Thanks
 
I do also agree with 383man regarding a cam though a builder that talks to the "back room guys", not the phone answering guy or the printed page. Also I have always run solid cams in my race motors, FT or roller. I still believe the correct single plane manifold will work fine on the street if it is a good match for the heads & cam combo. An old TM7/850 DP should work very well on the street with a cam like Ron's. Runner volume/cyl head/camshaft combination gives the response and power.
 
I think that Lunati cam would work pretty good.

Those are Harold Brookshire designed lobes.

The Hughes 4650 that was mentioned would also be a good choice, or a Howard’s 721262-08.
 
We run a 65 Belvedere full interior street car. Old Wiend 2x4 w/2 600 Eddys, box stock Eddy RPM heads, .557 mopar solid, true10.0-1, cheapy headers, 4.10, good converter, 9x28 slick. 11.30s@117 in good air, 11.40s anywhere. I'm sure there are more modern cams but this one works pretty good.
Doug
 
We run a 65 Belvedere full interior street car. Old Wiend 2x4 w/2 600 Eddys, box stock Eddy RPM heads, .557 mopar solid, true10.0-1, cheapy headers, 4.10, good converter, 9x28 slick. 11.30s@117 in good air, 11.40s anywhere. I'm sure there are more modern cams but this one works pretty good.
Doug
Thanks, do you by any chance know the lob sep on that 557?
I like the fact that the Lunati has a 110 deg lsa.
 
Ron, isnt his planned car/engine combo very much like your previous set up? Exceptions being heads (ported 906 vs E-Street), intake (SD vs RPM) and gear (4.30 vs 3.73)?

Yes its very close to my old 906 headed 440 combo. I ran the Single Plane Holley SD but the RPM is a great street/strip intake and should work great for him. I run 4.30's as you said but I do run 30" tall tire. Ron
 
Well, thank you 383man, finally someone that can give me a good suggestion on a solid camshaft.
Read all about your car and I'm very impressed with your old and new setup.
Switching to a singel plane intake on my engine will never happen sinse I street drive mine for 90% of the time and I know my intake kan handle more airflow then my combo needs.
What I need is more in real life suggestions on solid cams like the one you posted. Thanks


Thank you for the kind words. The RPM you use a very good intake and I would stay with it also. Ron
 
Duration @ .050 is a really missed spec of cams...especially in a street/strip car. With street type gearing and a street friendly converter. My quick guess on a combo like yours.... duration @ 050 would be in the 235-250 range
 
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Duration @ .050 is a really missed spec of cams...especially in a street/strip car. With street type gearing and a street friendly converter. My quick guess on a combo like yours.... duration @ 050 would be in the 235-250 range
Duration @ .050 is a really missed spec of cams...especially in a street/strip car. With street type gearing and a street friendly converter. My quick guess on a combo like yours.... duration @ 050 would be in the 235-250 range
My current hydraulic lic is 240/246 at 050
The lunati I'm looking at are 251/259 at 050,not that much bigger than my hydraulic when you remove the lash.
 
Found this, very interesting.
Pretty close to my combo
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-0312-solid-vs-hydraulic-lifters/

I usually use 8° for normalizing hydraulic verse solid flat tappet cam profiles.
I'm a big big fan of solids. I personally don't understand the use of a hydraulic FT in an application where the person is truly interested in power out put. Maybe people think they are getting their cake and eating it too with fast rate hydraulics. As that article demonstrates, that is likely not true in many cases.

The other negative compounding effect of the fast rate hydraulic is that power usually goes really really south after peak. This can matter a lot depending on your converter and rpm potential of your combination. If you're really into power and performance, you'll be shifting your car several hundred rpm past peak power to minimize et, and maximize mph. This is completely logical as it is the average hp (area under the hp curve) between shift rpm and shift recovery rpm that determines the et/mph, not the peak hp. So using that article to demonstrate, the hydraulic will likely be shifted at 5800, the solid at 6300. The corresponding shift recovery rpms will be about 3400 and 3700. Horsepower is climbing fast in that rpm range. The shift recovery hp difference between the two cams (3400 vs 3700) will be 40 to 45 hp. So when comparing the true hp relationship between the two cams, you need to shift the curves to account for the different operating rpm ranges.

Said differently, the actual performance increase realized at the track might actually be better than the 30 hp peak difference would suggest, using the article as an example.
 
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For me, hydraulic cams are normally used where you want to retain the stock non-adjustable rocker arm setup to save money, and even then, the stock rocker system is not that dependable when using stiff valve springs and lifts over 0.500".
 
Off topic a bit, but my favorite cam is still my General Kinetics mushroom cam. 634/645 w/ 276*/280*. Made equal power to my Comp 660 280* roller and very close to my Lunati 690 284* roller. Also a ton more than my Comp 720 274* roller.

Old stuff, but worked.
 
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Afr around 12.8
Total timing 35 deg
Old cam degreed
Timing mark I check every now and then. (old damper)
I have a feeling that the lifters don't t keep up.
Tried different preloads as well.

Man this post/thread is almost identical to the same exact issue I am having with the XE 275HL in my 383/432 Stroker

E Street Heads 75cc

Been thru everything fuel related and ignition related , everything

Mine is closer to 5200-5400 RPMs falling off flat almost like a rev limiter

Fast68plymouth over on Moparts was talking to me about valvetrain and hydraulic lifters with these fast rate cams and gave me a link to this article

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-0510-440-engine-dyno-test/

I either have to live with it or change cams

Those RPMs come up fast especially with 3:91 gears on the highway
 
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