Anyone experience with this collar to eliminate timming „ jumps“

[Moparjack 489]

Check that the advance plate is tight there is a clip under it that sometimes loses the tension. Also the gap on the reluctor, I set them at .008"

Today I get the “collar” from Hughes engines , they just have a set screw without drilling for a roll pin .
After the “ collar “ from”Halifaxhops” comes to me I will check the different between the two’s . Because Halifaxhops say the Hughes one stops the oil .

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

The bushing I shiped goes on the distributor shaft in place of the nylon one not by the oil pump gear.

 

[Fran Blacker]

If your worried about oil on the tip of dist. with a collar as in post #21. All you have to do is file a groove on the ID of collar.
On one of my electronic dist. had the roll pin come out an 1/8". Knocked it back in and wire though roll pin and twisted wire ends and soldered them.

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

Today I get the “collar” from Hughes engines , they just have a set screw without drilling for a roll pin .
After the “ collar “ from”Halifaxhops” comes to me I will check the different between the two’s . Because Halifaxhops say the Hughes one stops the oil .

View attachment 639626

Two different animals there I originally thought you were changing out the top thrust collar. I never got the reason for the bottom one all it does is add shaft weight since it only locks onto the shaft and not the oil pump drive.

 

[Officer Higgins]

Two different animals there I originally thought you were changing out the top thrust collar. I never got the reason for the bottom one all it does is add shaft weight since it only locks onto the shaft and not the oil pump drive.

Hello, you have thrust collars, mine was cracked got one from ebooger on ebay.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Two different animals there I originally thought you were changing out the top thrust collar. I never got the reason for the bottom one all it does is add shaft weight since it only locks onto the shaft and not the oil pump drive.

We are talking about an added bottom one to keep the oil pump drive in place.

For some reason ign time jumps +/- 2 to 3 degrees ( in my case, while iddling) and it seems to be due some gears play and dist shaft play into the slot.

I also made a diff way to what has being exposed to try, and fill the slot with a leather piece into the dist slot at pump drive. That should work the same than the ring or the hose section but UNLESS I needed a bigger leather piece, couldn’t notice really a more stable ign time, or not a big diff at least.

Another idea coul be install a shim washer between the block bushing and pump drive.

So we could get 4 ways to make this adjustment:
The mentioned ring
Hose on shaft from top to bottom
Fill the slot ( leather or rubber )
Shim washers down the pump drive

 

[Fran Blacker]

We are talking about an added bottom one to keep the oil pump drive in place.

For some reason ign time jumps +/- 2 to 3 degrees ( in my case, while iddling) and it seems to be due some gears play and dist shaft play into the slot.

I also made a diff way to what has being exposed to try, and fill the slot with a leather piece into the dist slot at pump drive. That should work the same than the ring or the hose section but UNLESS I needed a bigger leather piece, couldn’t notice really a more stable ign time, or not a big diff at least.

Another idea coul be install a shim washer between the block bushing and pump drive.

So we could get 4 ways to make this adjustment:
The mentioned ring
Hose on shaft from top to bottom
Fill the slot ( leather or rubber )
Shim washers down the pump drive

Did you check for a bent Dist shaft at both ends?

 

[Moparjack 489]

My fire core distributor is brand new and straight , but if I check the timming is not 100% stable in idle and also at full timming advance . It’s like a jumping about 2-3 degree ....
anywhere I try to fix this issue with the collar from Hughes racing and the it’s work’s like describe , or not ..,,,

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Using a Brand new MP dist here. The ONLY used piece is the pump drive itself, which it wasn't jumping before the engine build. Can't recall right now when began to jump.

 

[pro451bee]

I checked the slop in the oil drive bushing in my 451 and it was loose.
Moving around a lot the timing.
Put in a a new one with correct MOPAR tools, now rock steady timing .

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Loose up and dow, or side to side?

On a note appart, I think this timming issue could be related to backslash ( same backslash than ring and pinion on axles ) between pump drive and camshaft.

Althought I thought initially could come from the play between dist end and pump drive slot, since the slot is bigger than the dist shaft end

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

We are talking about an added bottom one to keep the oil pump drive in place.

For some reason ign time jumps +/- 2 to 3 degrees ( in my case, while iddling) and it seems to be due some gears play and dist shaft play into the slot.

I also made a diff way to what has being exposed to try, and fill the slot with a leather piece into the dist slot at pump drive. That should work the same than the ring or the hose section but UNLESS I needed a bigger leather piece, couldn’t notice really a more stable ign time, or not a big diff at least.

Another idea coul be install a shim washer between the block bushing and pump drive.

So we could get 4 ways to make this adjustment:
The mentioned ring
Hose on shaft from top to bottom
Fill the slot ( leather or rubber )
Shim washers down the pump drive

So it is to keep a bit of pressure on the oil pump gear? I get it now.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

yeap, I guess to save from the play all the moving parts got around...