pearljam724
Well-Known Member
Interested in installing a valley pan in a small block to block crossovers and helping with vapor lock. I can only find them for big blocks. Ebay, Jegs and Summit doesn’t appear to have them for a small block.
I have a 1/2 spacer and it has helped dramatically. I want every bit of vapor lock help I get. I really don’t want insulation around my lines as it will look hideous. I don’t want to use gaskets blocking the holes alone. Exhaust and heat will rip right through it, in ten minutes. Im afraid if I use metal tin, etc. The gaskets may not seal right ? Somehow to cool the mechanical fuel pump would be nice.Small blocks weren't designed for pans, as you know the intake bolts to block as well as the heads, that's why you aren't finding any. (Just blocking the crossover isn't the way to combat vapor lock anyway IMO) Wrap your lines with heat shielding anywhere they run close to heat sources. Use a phenolic carb spacer, if you've got hood clearance. Even a 1/2" helps. There's the vapor separator/return line setup, like the factory did on some cars, but that's a lot more involved and you might be okay with insulation and a spacer. My carb no longer bubbles after shutdown, no hot start issues & I drive my modified 440 around town in some hotass weather! Try cheaper & easier first. If you really want to block the crossover (a good thing if it doesn't get real cold where you live) you just pick gaskets that don't have the holes for them, like a 1243 FelPro or the like..
I have one also. But, no return line. I may do that, if I decide to replace an old tank. But, it doesn’t leak. You’re right, fuel not moving enough is a big factor. How did you attach the return line to the tank ?My vapor lock problems went away right after I installed a fuel regulator with a return line. The fuel is always moving in my car...From the tank and back to it. Fuel that sits and waits to be used seems to boil much faster today.
Gaskets that block the holes is your only option...besides running an aftermarket head or intake that doesn't have them to begin with....they don't make a SB pan similar to a big-block pan for a reason. I wrapped my fuel lines only in the sections near the exhaust, and only before the short rubber line that feeds the pump; nothing visible unless you're under the car. The return line setup works good, just swap your fuel sender with one that has a return barb, they're typically 1/4".I have a 1/2 spacer and it has helped dramatically. I want every bit of vapor lock help I get. I really don’t want insulation around my lines as it will look hideous. I don’t want to use gaskets blocking the holes alone. Exhaust and heat will rip right through it, in ten minutes. Im afraid if I use metal tin, etc. The gaskets may not seal right ? Somehow to cool the mechanical fuel pump would be nice.