Asking for help block sanding a "fuselage" styled Plymouth

[Dibbons]

It's been a few decades since I performed any body work. I have some reddish primer laid down covered by a light mist of white from a spray can as a guide coat. Before I begin the block sanding (I think it's called block sanding) I wonder with the fuselage styling of this 1972 Satellite Sebring Plus if using one of those common rubber sanding blocks is going to be too flat to use on the very rounded shaped fenders, doors, quarter panels, and trunk lid? Should I try something more flexible to back up the sand paper? I want to get this right the first time, materials cost a small fortune! Thank you. (the picture below does not show the primer that's applied now)

 

[Pistol Pete]

There are many, many different sanding blocks being put to use by those of us foolish enough to do our own bodywork, but in answer to your question, a flexible block (with steel rods) will cover the compound curves and the flatter areas as well. I wouldn't try to do every area on the car with these, but they will get you started. Use rolls of psa paper and change it often as well.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/...Default&SortOrder=Ascending&autoview=SKU&ar=1

 

[Dibbons]

Well, for the hood and trunk my helpers today at first insisted on using their bare hands. I finally talked them into at least using different types of kitchen sponges. They did not want to accept the fact that fingers and sandpaper alone would not provide a flat surface.

 

[1967coronet]

A 12 to 16 inch hard board / hard block with 220 grit will do 90 % of that car. A flex block will follow the contours of and highs and low areas. It will dig the guide coat out of lows
On the sides of fenders ect the hard block should pointed front to back and pushed top to bottom and bottom to top while changing angles every few strokes.
The longer the block / board the less panel flex you will get on the hood , roof , and trunk.

When blocking those areas take your time and let the paper do the work, If the hood ect is bowing your using to much pressure.
Use a narrow block for wheel archs and other small areas.

 

[moparmarks]

A 12 to 16 inch hard board / hard block with 220 grit will do 90 % of that car. A flex block will follow the contours of and highs and low areas. It will dig the guide coat out of lows
On the sides of fenders ect the hard block should pointed front to back and pushed top to bottom and bottom to top while changing angles every few strokes.
The longer the block / board the less panel flex you will get on the hood , roof , and trunk.

When blocking those areas take your time and let the paper do the work, If the hood ect is bowing your using to much pressure.
Use a narrow block for wheel archs and other small areas.

Yep this is the way I was shown how to do it. In the process of sanding my Dart. I hate body work but want it laser straight.