Prep for epoxy primer
- Thread starter TrackPack
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SEM Etch primer i a professional product, not some cheap ****! It is designed to spot prime
bare metal "spots" only where you accidently sand through. The G2 is a polyester primer that
you use to fill and block. It will seal whatever is underneath and prevent any lifting.
bare metal "spots" only where you accidently sand through. The G2 is a polyester primer that
you use to fill and block. It will seal whatever is underneath and prevent any lifting.
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Dennis still not catalyzed so I it should not be used under expiry. I’ve used sem products also all aerosol primers are to fragile
Read the directions from the manufacture of the paint product you want to use!!! Use all the same brands of paint products. Any question should be asked of the paint supplier and follow their directions NO RATTLE CAN !
Evercoat G2 is similar to featherfill, but is a high build product with less shrinkage. SEM Etch Primer
is ONLY for spot priming bare spots! It was developed so you didn't have to go mix a cup full of
product for a small spot or two. It's not supposed to go over any coatings.
is ONLY for spot priming bare spots! It was developed so you didn't have to go mix a cup full of
product for a small spot or two. It's not supposed to go over any coatings.
Here ya go!
TrackPack
Well-Known Member
Yup, that's the entire problem, what product to use?
One thing for sure, I am not stripping the entire car to bare metal. The panels are too nice, and require only minimal spot repairs. Sure wish that someone hadn't covered the entire care in lacquer primer, but that's the way it was done back in the day.
TrackPack
Well-Known Member
After a ton of research I decided to take the engine bay all the way down to bare metal and then coat with SPI epoxy.
As for the panels I think I'll work on one at a time, sand off the lacquer primer and see what I have to work with. Thanks to all that replied!
As for the panels I think I'll work on one at a time, sand off the lacquer primer and see what I have to work with. Thanks to all that replied!
slimt
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Your familiar with the 30 minute induction time? It just means once its mixed 1to 1 It has to sit for 30 minutes in its mixed state prior to application
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PROFORM says in the instructions "No induction period necessary". That's the brand that I use.
TrackPack
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Yes, 30 minute induction time and then 72 hour pot life.
I think you’re doing the right thing. Cutting corners when you have the car completely blown apart will come back to haunt you. It’s ultimately cheaper and easier to do it right the first time than it is to go back and fix it later.
moparmusclecars
Well-Known Member
Epoxy r
Reduced as a sealer is a better sealer than just a standard 2k sealer. For rock chips, sealing up metal, etc.
Looks Fantastic!
Nice job. Good luck with the project. Keep us posted on your progress.
moparmusclecars
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Because epoxy reduced as a sealer is better to be using than a standard 2k sealer or 1k sealer. It resists rock chips much better, plus adhesion of your paint or base coat is much better. Epoxy sticks to the undercoat much better, too.
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It seals the 2k from stains and moisture migration. 2k primers are pourus
Hmmm, don't think so ! That's the whole point od a 2k primer - the damn stuff is like a complete plastic coating. Sealers are generally not to keep stuff "out" but rather to keep stuff "in". In other words, it prevents anything from bleeding though into the topcoat.
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