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axle removal

jr64sportfury

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Can anyone tell me how to pull the axles out of my 64 sport fury, I know about the drums, but I was looking in my manual and they show a special tool needed to pull the axles out, I'm hoping someone out there knows how to remove them without that tool. I'm putting in a sure grip unit. Thanks j.r.
 
Once the drums are off, loosen the the 5 retaining bolts and pull the axle out.
 
there will be a hole in between the studs for you to put a socket through ...
 
there will be a hole in between the studs for you to put a socket through ...
There is no axle flange on the older tapered axle rears and yes, you need the special tool to remove the drum. The studs are incorporated into the drum similar to the way the front drums are made and comes off as a unit. I've heard of people driving the car once the castle nut was loosened and the drum would become loose but I've never done it. Either way, do not remove the nut completely as it'll act as a stop for when the drum finally pops loose. Once the drum is off, then the axle can be removed.
 
Tapered axle

It's easy, remove the axle key and use the brake drum as a slide hamer with the nut on the axle a few threads.
 
Save yourself lots of time, energy and hassle.

If it's not a "restoration" needing to be correct, pull the whole axle out and throw it away. I replaced mine with one out of a '70 Charger.
 
wow!!!!!!!! Thanks for the quick response, sounds easy enough, I will be trying it pretty soon.
 
There is no axle flange on the older tapered axle rears and yes, you need the special tool to remove the drum. The studs are incorporated into the drum similar to the way the front drums are made and comes off as a unit. I've heard of people driving the car once the castle nut was loosened and the drum would become loose but I've never done it. Either way, do not remove the nut completely as it'll act as a stop for when the drum finally pops loose. Once the drum is off, then the axle can be removed.


i agree, i got that special miller tool. only way you'll get it off the correct way. i've seen it done different ways but i like using the hub puller tool.
 
Save yourself lots of time, energy and hassle.

If it's not a "restoration" needing to be correct, pull the whole axle out and throw it away. I replaced mine with one out of a '70 Charger.


I agree with this method..... Find a complete rear from a 65 or newer B-body... It'll fit right in. Those tapered shaft axles are a weak link and a bear to work on.
 
Now now, those lived behind Max wedges all day. The upgrade to the later axle housing is going in the right direction, but stregth is not compromised if you use the tapered axle, just doing any work on the brakes or brgs. is a pain.
 
You really want the correct puller, in my opinion. It's just so much easier and less damaging than without it. My drums were all messed up from years of people yanking them off without the proper tool. I bought one...then I swapped in a later model rear, so now I don't need it. It was still worth it to buy it for the few times I used it.
 
The easiest way

If you have an old rim that fits, some 3" pipe, some scrap iron and a welder, you can make your own tool, just weld the pipe on the rim to make two uprights, then weld a piece of steel across the pipe to connect them. You remove the tire, bolt this rim on, put a hydraulic bottle jack with the bottom on the steel, place the nose of the jack on the loosened castle nut and just start pumping, pulls the drum and your not beating on anything or destroying anything with a puller. My Dad made this setup 35 years ago to pull the drums off his '63 D-100 truck...



Can anyone tell me how to pull the axles out of my 64 sport fury, I know about the drums, but I was looking in my manual and they show a special tool needed to pull the axles out, I'm hoping someone out there knows how to remove them without that tool. I'm putting in a sure grip unit. Thanks j.r.
 
If you have an old rim that fits, some 3" pipe, some scrap iron and a welder, you can make your own tool, just weld the pipe on the rim to make two uprights, then weld a piece of steel across the pipe to connect them. You remove the tire, bolt this rim on, put a hydraulic bottle jack with the bottom on the steel, place the nose of the jack on the loosened castle nut and just start pumping, pulls the drum and your not beating on anything or destroying anything with a puller. My Dad made this setup 35 years ago to pull the drums off his '63 D-100 truck...

Is there any way you have a picture of this home brewed tool. I love making homemade tools and have wrecked my share of drums unnecessarily.
 
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