B Body starter problem

[Dodge 340]

Working on a 1970 Superbird. I had the motor and transmission rebuilt. Owner wanted headers so I installed a mini starter from Summit. Fired the engine to break in the cam but had to shut it down due to the starter bendix not returning, stayed engaged with the flywheel/torque converter. I have checked a multitude of things but can't figure out why the starter gear will not return. Ordered another starter from Summit thinking it was faulty, no, same problem. Installed original 1970 starter, same problem. New Converter seems to be correct, 130 teeth. Any suggestions?

 

[toolmanmike]

Welcome to FBBO. The Welcome Wagon forum is to introduce yourself and tell us about your car. I will move this thread to another forum where you may get more action.

 

[snakeoil24]

Check to see if flywheel is bent or properly mated to crank

 

[pnora]

Are the dowels in the block?

 

[RemCharger]

Usually the problem is at the u in the block not allowing the starter to sit flat and proper.
Grind it out with a die grinder.
Welcome aboard

 

[pnora]

Usually the problem is at the u in the block not allowing the starter to sit flat and proper.
Grind it out with a die grinder.
Welcome aboardView attachment 1549174

He said same problem with original stock starter.

 

[RemCharger]

He said same problem with original stock starter.

No, he used 2 different minstarters in a row.
Both the same problem.

 

[Don Frelier]

No, he used 2 different minstarters in a row.
Both the same problem.

Read it again, maybe it was edited?

 

[493 Mike]

Are you using the tin seal plate?
Mike

 

[Don Frelier]

Perhaps it has something to do with how far back the teeth are from the back of the block/bell housing?
Kind of related to mike's question.

 

[RemCharger]

Ahhh, yes. 2 minis in a row,,, and then the original...
I did glance over that.. thanks pnora and Don

 

[kiwigtx]

I had sticking starter once....just a small adjustment in clearance between flywheel and starter when bolting the starter in position relieved it for me.

Sometimes people just bolt them in while holding them hard against the block.

Try it.

 

[pnora]

Make sure the relay is releasing. If for some reason the little wire on the starter is staying hot the starter will be engaged all the time.

 

[Fran Blacker]

See posts #5 and #9.

 

[Dodge 340]

The dowels are in the block. Cleaned up the U area with a grinder. I think the tin seal plate that you are referring to is the plate that goes between the starter and the bell housing and yes it is in there. The relay is releasing. When you engage the starter with the flywheel, the bendix will return like 1 out of 5 times. It is like the teeth on the flywheel aren't correct or something.

 

[kiwigtx]

The dowels are in the block. Cleaned up the U area with a grinder. I think the tin seal plate that you are referring to is the plate that goes between the starter and the bell housing and yes it is in there. The relay is releasing. When you engage the starter with the flywheel, the bendix will return like 1 out of 5 times. It is like the teeth on the flywheel aren't correct or something.

Back off the fixing bolts to the starter, and just nudge it off the block a bit, then re-tighten.

 

[Dodge 340]

I had sticking starter once....just a small adjustment in clearance between flywheel and starter when bolting the starter in position relieved it for me.

Sometimes people just bolt them in while holding them hard against the block.

Try it.

How do you make an adjustment between the flywheel and the starter? The nose of the starter fits back in the hole in the bell housing and two bolts for the starter. I even elongated the mounting holes in the starter a little to see if that would help but it didn't.

 

[Dodge 340]

Are you using the tin seal plate?
Mike

Yes

 

[Dodge 340]

Make sure the relay is releasing. If for some reason the little wire on the starter is staying hot the starter will be engaged all the time.

Working properly. I have checked the voltage.

 

[Dodge 340]

Perhaps it has something to do with how far back the teeth are from the back of the block/bell housing?
Kind of related to mike's question.

I'm not sure how you can adjust that.