• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Battery relocate questions...

Look up electric enclosures online. There are lots of different styles & sizes available. Something like this.

Enclosure.JPG
 
You can buy liquid tape at any electric supply house, it simply brushed on. We used it in the plants all the time, especially in underground splices....
 
I'm not sure if you could find a piece big enough in diameter, but how about a short piece of PVC pipe with 2 caps and notched for the wires/cables. Bolt one cap to the trunk floor with the solenoid in it and slide the short pipe with the notches and cap over the top as a cover.
 
If I were you, I'd try to get the solenoid up off the trunk floor. Perhaps a piece of 14ga metal bent 90 degrees that went under the box and used the same mounting holes would provide a good mounting spot almost flush to the top of the battery box. This would keep it up out of harms way, ensure wrenches don't ground to the trunk pan when working around it and ensure moisture and condensation did not become an issue. It would mount neatly behind the battery box, on the verticle leg of the metal angle, flush to the top for easy access and away from stuff you toss in the trunk. The bent metal piece would only have to be about 4 inches wide. If the top of the verticle leg were bent over at 90 degrees, this would allow a plastic box cap to be fastened right over the solenoid with the wires dropping straight down under the protection of the cover.Just a thought.
 
Vacuum Line Rubber covers

Go to Auto Zone or O'rileys.
They have an assortment of vaccum line soft rubber covers in different sizes and colors'
I used the red ones to cover circuit breaker terminals that I used for My elec. fuel pump, work great ,if the terminal are a little large just split the rubber caps a little before putting on.

- - - Updated - - -

Also I used heat shrink on My battery lug terminals before assembly, all the way on the terminal so just leaving the flat face of the terminal exposed for good connection on terminals.
 
I've used this system for two years and really like it. Nice job. Love the Battery box. You could use the master cut off switch that mounts inside the trunk and is activated with a steel rod with a small T handle. Only needs a small hole to run through and you can remove the T when not at the track. I can't wait to see the box for solenoid. Maybe there is room behind the Battery Box for both the switch and the solenoid. That would use space not accessible by golf clubs or baby carts.. Dave
 
I did a pretty decent search, but I didn't come up with much that caught my eye, though that's a pretty cool one.

I found that one on http://www.polycase.com/ . Just my opinion but I'd rather deal with a box than tape or coatings. Especially if you have to work on it after you've put all that crap on it.
 
I found this on waking up the beast thread.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_2016-03-18-21-31-17-1.jpg
    Screenshot_2016-03-18-21-31-17-1.jpg
    22.5 KB · Views: 297
I found this on waking up the beast thread.

What can I say, great minds think alike (and so do we). Hmmm, I like what you did there, bringing it out above bumper.....

- - - Updated - - -

I found that one on http://www.polycase.com/ . Just my opinion but I'd rather deal with a box than tape or coatings. Especially if you have to work on it after you've put all that crap on it.

I think those are just what I was looking for. Thanks.

- - - Updated - - -

I've used this system for two years and really like it. Nice job. Love the Battery box. You could use the master cut off switch that mounts inside the trunk and is activated with a steel rod with a small T handle. Only needs a small hole to run through and you can remove the T when not at the track. I can't wait to see the box for solenoid. Maybe there is room behind the Battery Box for both the switch and the solenoid. That would use space not accessible by golf clubs or baby carts.. Dave

Yeah you guys really got me thinking. I think you are 100% correct - one box for both the solenoid and cut off, with a detachable t-bar and linkage all located behind the box. I purposely left the 1/0 cable nice and long so I could adapt to something like this...

And like bob's, I'll put one small hole above the bumper for the t-bar - nice and clean.

Thanks fellas!
 
I mounted mine up on the wheelwell. I put alot in my trunk also and I have never hit it or damaged it being there where it is. I like the idea of the cover but I just thought I would show you where I put mine and that its been fine there. You can also see my kill switch a little as its mounted on the battery box and the push-pull rod goes out through my taillite lens. Ron

410904488.jpg


- - - Updated - - -

Heres it is coming out the taillite lens. I did it like this so the only thing I put a hole in was the taillite lens which can be replaced if I ever want to take the switch out. Ron

404486778.jpg
 
Your kidding, is that your positive battery cable plastic tied to the exhaust pipe and drive line?
Sure hope you don't have a major short when that battery cable melts threw.
 
I think this is the funniest photo I have ever seen on this site!!!!!!!!!!!!
Mike
 
Your kidding, is that your positive battery cable plastic tied to the exhaust pipe and drive line?
Sure hope you don't have a major short when that battery cable melts threw.

I don't think there's any melting danger from the exhaust. Unless you warm up the car for a REALLY long time, the driveshaft will tear the cable away from the exhaust long before the insulation starts to melt. No Problem!
 
Back in the early 80's there was a marine style box made just for ford type solenoids. I have also seen a few that were similar in RV's It was hinged but sealed up tight when closed. prevented sparks as well as anything shorting it out. Might try that avenue.
 
I don't think there's any melting danger from the exhaust. Unless you warm up the car for a REALLY long time, the driveshaft will tear the cable away from the exhaust long before the insulation starts to melt. No Problem!

Just need to get the extra strong welding cable. Hard to find, but worth it. :)
 
HT413

"We" use non conductive RTV on the terminals underneath (weapons bay) of the the F-XX
Some carry up to 270V

1. RTV the terminals
2. Check with multi-meter, verify no leakage
3. Cover with a aluminum "cover-plate"


QUOTE: "Your kidding, is that your positive battery cable plastic tied to the exhaust pipe and drive line?
Sure hope you don't have a major short when that battery cable melts threw."


I concur...
Run the cable along the side body rails...
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top