Bellhousing runout question

[Fran Blacker]

Can one be turned down?

 

[wasco]

Can one be turned down?

I've read of people having the bushing turned down on a brake lathe?

 

[Fran Blacker]

If you could have them made cheap enough sale them here? Ebay?

 

[4406bbl]

Yes, anyone with a lathe could do it.

 

[4406bbl]

Thanks for bringing this up - I haven't been able to locate the bushing I'd purchased from JEGS yet (found the invoice, not Brewers like I thought), but I have a feeling I'll be needing to order the undersized bushing and I found one online. I don't have anything to measure the hole in the crank, but once I find the standard bushing I'll know if it fits or not.

If it turns out that you need the smaller bushing you will also need to check how deep the hole is drilled in the crank, sometimes the end of the input shaft will touch the crank, just cut about 1/4" off with a whizzer wheel and regrind the chamfer, have seen that a few times over the years.

 

[wasco]

If it turns out that you need the smaller bushing you will also need to check how deep the hole is drilled in the crank, sometimes the end of the input shaft will touch the crank, just cut about 1/4" off with a whizzer wheel and regrind the chamfer, have seen that a few times over the years.

I'd planned on measuring the depth/length of everything to be sure, but thanks for the reminder!

What's the majority opinion of using one of the bearings instead of the bushing? Brewer has the standard bushing for $5, and the roller bearing for $20, so I figured I'd order both. If the bushing fits, and the crank hole is the proper depth, I'll go with that, but if not, I'll have the bearing - but I'll still confirm the depth of the hole to make sure the trans doesn't make contact. The undersize bushing is the same price as the bearing from a different vendor - is that preferred over the bearing? They both have their supporters, it seems.

 

[biomedtechguy]

...What's the majority opinion of using one of the bearings instead of the bushing? Brewer has the standard bushing for $5, and the roller bearing for $20, so I figured I'd order both. If the bushing fits, and the crank hole is the proper depth, I'll go with that, but if not, I'll have the bearing - but I'll still confirm the depth of the hole to make sure the trans doesn't make contact. The undersize bushing is the same price as the bearing from a different vendor - is that preferred over the bearing? They both have their supporters, it seems.

Well, the crank in my 440 6bbl is factory ready for the input shaft, and there was a bushing in it, so I replaced that with a bushing, as part of my initial ownership "fixing things" routine. The 18 spline "Hemi" 4 speed behind my 440 6bbl had a mixed bag of wrong parts and fasteners that made up the Hurst Competition Plus shifter that came in the car when I bought it. Per Wayne at Brewers, it was the wrong year, I found regular hex bolts holding the mounting plate to the trans where tapered bolts belong, and this all started because shifting was an ambiguous experience similar to stirring a bag full of wet soupy diarrhea filled with nuts and bolts....
Back on topic, if I was forced to choose, maybe the bearing would be less resistance?

 

[70chall440]

Well on my 346 EFI 6 BBL I just used a sock Bellhousing and bolted everything up without issue.

 

[4406bbl]

There is nothing wrong with the roller bearing as long as the input shaft is in good shape. Sometimes you see pitting right where the rollers would run. They did make that roller bearing style with a bronze bushing in it also. Any style works good, roller will like good bellhousing alignment, and you have that.

 

[biomedtechguy]

my 346 EFI 6 BBL

EFI 6BBL?!! FiTech??
If FiTech, I have held their EFI 6bbl setup in my hands and it felt well made, substantial! The only other 6bbl EFI I can think of is the F&B DPI/TB setup.
PLEASE, a bit more info, or PM me!

 

[70chall440]

No, its an F&B system with a FAST EX 1.0 controller system. I also have a 440 EFI 6 Pack using a F&B system with a Holley HP controller system. I recently installed a Fitech 6 Tri-power on a 69 Ply Wagon with a 440 but have not got it running yet.

 

[biomedtechguy]

No, its an F&B system with a FAST EX 1.0 controller system. I also have a 440 EFI 6 Pack using a F&B system with a Holley HP controller system. I recently installed a Fitech 6 Tri-power on a 69 Ply Wagon with a 440 but have not got it running yet.

View attachment 1104464 View attachment 1104466 View attachment 1104468

THANKS! It's kinda funny that the "horsepower limited" FiTech is on the big block, and the far more flexible F&B systems are on small blocks. I asked FiTech if the HP limit could be increased by changing injection components etc and they said "NO" but I know the F&B system is fairly easily upgraded.
I'm sending you a PM

 

[70chall440]

Well that is not "just a SB", makes over 500HP...

 

[biomedtechguy]

Well that is not "just a SB", makes over 500HP...

no disparaging intent!!
I sent you a PM. Thanks!

 

[wasco]

If we could get back on topic I picked up a standard bushing here in town for $6, and it's a no-go. Looks like I'll need the undersized or the rolling bearing.

 

[dadsbee]

Have you got a rubber sanding roll mandrel?? Put the bushing on it, then chuck it in a lathe and turn it down to fit.

 

[joe smith]

If you use a bushing NO lube on it at all... It should be oil impregnated... The only problem I ever saw with a Pilot bushing was when somebody had lubed it..

 

[wasco]

I took back the bushing and went with the bearing. It seems like it will be a good fit. The only problem now is one of the RobbMc Performance offset dowels doesn't stay in. I crank down on the screw in the middle and it just goes right through to the back and starts pushing out the dowel. I've sent them an email to see if there is some way to get it to stay put. Hopefully, it is good enough once the bellhousing bolts are torqued down or is there something I can put in the block to set the dowel in place? Maybe a couple wraps of teflon tape on the set screw to push out the sides of the dowel more?

 

[4406bbl]

You could try that. I would mark the dowel so you know where it should be, put a little green locktite on it and coin the block with a sharp punch in 4 spots right next to the dowel. The bolts do the holding, the dowels just locate it.

 

[biomedtechguy]

If we could get back on topic

It happens a lot w/me because it's difficult for me not to ask about or offer comments on "something" off topic that may come up in a post or thread, like several 6bbl EFI units belonging to one person.
Thanks for being patient and nice about it.