Best way to clean engine oil out of transmission

[Mopower71]

Best way to clean out oil?

727 out of a new to me 66’ Belvedere. What I thought was seriously burnt ATF turned out to be motor oil. Tearing it apart anyway since I found a piece of a snap ring in the pan. What’s the best way to clean the oil out that won’t damage any seals that I might miss and material on the bands?

This is out of my sons 1966 Belvedere 2, he bought this a few months ago and still hasn’t driven the car. After pulling the dipstick and finding engine oil on the dipstick,he drained it and it’s almost like someone filled it with used motor oil.
Thanks for any help with cleaning suggestions.
We already have a rebuild kits but only the front band.is it possible to clean the other band with something?
Also something I have never seen the front clutch pack has 2 steels in the bottom and then alternates. Is this ok to run this way? Right now it has .070” measured under the retaining ring.

 

[pnora]

Looks like aged worn possibly burnt atf to me. Clean everything well and blow it out. If the converter has a drain plug you can drain it well. Possibly get it flushed. There are ways you can flush it yourself.

 

[Mopower71]

It doesn’t have the burnt transmission oil smell.not a hint of red.smells and feels like used motor oil.
The converter does have a drain plug and will be getting drained and flushed as well as I can. Flipped the converter over to drain and and very little came out.
The clutches and bands look quite new,and no heat marks on the steels.

 

[oldkimmer]

It probably has trans hydraulic fluid. Kim

 

[RemCharger]

I poured engine oil in the heat of the moment when I was a kid once.. luckily drained it out before using..
My concern would be clutch and band contamination. All you can do is flush it and try it

 

[Photon440]

Rinse everything with acetone. Any traces of acetone that remain in the passages will be mixed with the ATF and quickly evaporated when the transmission is at operating temperature.

 

[493 Mike]

As far as you have it apart now, I would recommend finishing the tear down and solvent cleaning everything and of course, flush the converter and cooling lines. Probably should do another fluid change shortly after running the system.
Mike

 

[dvw]

Carb cleaner is the best thing I’ve found to remove the brown varnish. Far more effective than brake clean. Mineral spirits won’t touch it. To be honest I haven’t tried acetone.i wouldn’t worry about seals. Don’t use them. Let’s see the frictions and bands.
Doug

 

[Dave6T4]

Best way to clean out oil?

727 out of a new to me 66’ Belvedere. What I thought was seriously burnt ATF turned out to be motor oil. Tearing it apart anyway since I found a piece of a snap ring in the pan. What’s the best way to clean the oil out that won’t damage any seals that I might miss and material on the bands?

This is out of my sons 1966 Belvedere 2, he bought this a few months ago and still hasn’t driven the car. After pulling the dipstick and finding engine oil on the dipstick,he drained it and it’s almost like someone filled it with used motor oil.
Thanks for any help with cleaning suggestions.
We already have a rebuild kits but only the front band.is it possible to clean the other band with something?
Also something I have never seen the front clutch pack has 2 steels in the bottom and then alternates. Is this ok to run this way? Right now it has .070” measured under the retaining ring.

View attachment 2009396

View attachment 2009397

View attachment 2009398

View attachment 2009399

I have used an extra steel as a spacer to get the clearance at the snap ring where I want it. Not uncommon. I would buy a rebuild kit with new frictions, rather than try to reclaim the ones you have.

 

[Mopower71]

Carb cleaner is the best thing I’ve found to remove the brown varnish. Far more effective than brake clean. Mineral spirits won’t touch it. To be honest I haven’t tried acetone.i wouldn’t worry about seals. Don’t use them. Let’s see the frictions and bands.
Doug

 

[4mulas]

Replace everything. A complete rebuild kit isn’t that much money.

 

[CHGRSE74]

I agree with^^^. Do a proper and complete rebuild. Your 1/2 ways there already. In post 10 there appears to be some overheating of the one fiber that is visible. O/H kits aren’t huge dollars compared to R&R. You can try to have the metal parts cleaned out in a large parts washer that uses a citrus based cleaner and very hot water. A machine shop could do this for you.

 

[CHGRSE74]

Check your fibers by trying to scratch the surface with your fingernail. material should not come off. If it does O/H for sure.

 

[R413]

Rebuild it. Replace all seals and frictions. That oil will clean off easily, no need for special things. The converter will drain out the plug, not as good out the snout.

Next time drain converter and pull pan and valve body, then refill, drive a little, and do flush again. Would probably work fine.

 

[Mopower71]

Thanks everyone for your input. Already have a new rebuild kit with all the seals,clutches,steels and the front band.
The broken seal ring was found as soon as the pump was pulled out. Maybe it got broke when somebody put the pump back in.

 

[Mopower71]

I have used an extra steel as a spacer to get the clearance at the snap ring where I want it. Not uncommon. I would buy a rebuild kit with new frictions, rather than try to reclaim the ones you have.

Thanks,I was a little concerned about that extra steel being in there. Clearance was at .070” so it was in spec.

 

[dvw]

View attachment 2009517

That pressure plate tells me that you didn’t have motor oil. That unit was HOT. Even the pressure plate is suspect. Start fresh.
Doug

 

[493 Mike]

What brand/type of fluid were you using? No smell of burned fluid? Obviously high gear was causing the issue.
Mike

 

[R413]

Was the throttle pressure linkage connected?

Was some kids beating it to death?