blown 70 charger progress

[jakepup]

Schumacher torque strap.

well I just ordered one from them, hopefully they are as easy to install as they say! I don't have a sway bar so it should just bolt right in with no extra hardware or drilling needed, how do you think it will change the pulling forces on my front end under hard acceleration? is it going to make it a little harder to control or easier you think? guess I don't have enough experience on how the geometry works with where and what the engine is pulling on and what changes when its being pulled on

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I also have one other question for you seasoned vets out there, when I really hammer on the car and get it up to about 75 and let off to start slowing down you need to make sure and hold the wheel straight to keep car in the lane but its not anything too aggressive, but when I run the 1/4 and am up to say 125mph and let off the gas and start to slowly apply brakes and slow down the car pulls HARD one direction or the other, frankly pretty hard to keep in the lane. just wondering why this could be? one brake grabbing harder than the other? everything settling back down after hard pull? or just a combination of all? I don't have a front sway bar but that shouldn't make a huge difference. I do understand this is an old car that's not aerodynamic by any means and there is a lot going on but I just don't habe the experience to know if this is normal or if there is something I can look for to improve on

 

[Homstead]

I'm surprized those are solid mounts! Good that your getting the torque strap. That should help. If its pulling when your not on the brakes on decal you might want to get a little more castor and check your toe on your alignment. If its only happening when your on the brakes then it has be brakes. Just my thoughts...

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

If those are solid mounts they are either VERY loose or broken. Now slowing down is such a wrestling match I'd check the ball joints and control arm bushings. When I let off my 3900 lb brick at the end of the 1/4,it's going 145 and when it UN loads you have to be on your toes for sure!

 

[jakepup]

I will have to check the mounts again, the bottom of them were left loose from the busy who put the engine in, I caught that right away and im sure they are tight but I never double checked at the block after the first time, the front end was completely rebuilt with all new parts and my alignment guy went through every nut and bolt to make sure everything was tight, I will have to visit with him on the caster thought.

just had another gremlin pop up last night so I gotta sort that out lol,,, never ending,, got on it a little bit and let off and all of sudden it was like I lost the ignition, stopped and it would not crank over again, just dead, battery only showed 12v, radio had reset itself so I obviously lost a connection somewhere, checked every connection I could see and nothing loose, let it sit 10 min and all of sudden my battery voltage said 13v and she cranked over and started.... not sure how just letting it sit could do that but my next step is to get under the dash and see if the power going to fuse box is loose or something, already checked connections at the starter, battery and junction block on firewall and all is good..... ONE DAY it will all get sorted out!! thanks again for the help guys

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

With solid mounts,the engine should flex AT ALL!,,,,,,,,the fenders will,LOL

 

[jakepup]

Well hemi-itis..... You were right , started digging around and found a sheared off grade 5 bolt laying inside the drivers side motor mount, FML , going to have to go trough every single inch of This car. back to the hoist to check all other mounting bolts, of course it was the one that screws into the block on the bottom of the mount. The ones on the ears of the block are still there atleast, Just can't get ahead..... If anyone on here ever takes a car to black widow customs to get work done on it I will beat there a$$ myself. Now what does a guy do....... Pull the engine and fix it, add the torque strap and hope that holds it until I pull the motor for a freshen up.....just a bad way to start a nice weekend

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Or do I add a front engine beaker like you hemi-Itis, can that be done in the car u think?

 

[HYRDGOON]

My vote goes to getting the motor out enough to swap the mount out.

I actually had something similar happen (not as severe as I learned) but I though my Mity Mounts broke and that's when I bought the torque strap. Turns out both nuts that secure the bolts to the chassis had backed off a bit or were never fully secured. If I recall the bolt through the mount ear to the block has to come out anyway for the torque strap.

I don't think you will need to get the engine right out but you will need to get it up.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Back in the day,,,,made my own torque strap with a turnbuckel and eyelets to bolt to the head and a tab on the k-frame.

 

[747mopar]

Sounds like you need to spend some time under it checking everything from the brakes to the balljoints, tie rod ends and strut rod bushings. I'd consider getting it realigned as well. I drove mine for a year just accepting what the guy had told me (those old Mopars just drive like that) before I noticed my tires were gone.... got it realigned and it drives like a dream so never assume anything. Good luck

 

[jakepup]

well after some investigation I found that things may not be as bad as I was thinking,, maby lol,

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well after some investigation I found that things may not be as bad as I was thinking,, maby lol,
so I looked a bit online on pictures of solid motor mounts and looked at the car and what I THINK happened is this, there is the "lower" motor mount or stand whatever you want to call it and there is the motor mount that's bolted to the engine, all 3 bolts are in and tight that hold the motor mount to the block, this I am 100% sure of, then it looks like there is a bold that holds that motor mount down to the stand or "lower mount" and that is the bolt that is snapped off. I have never put one on so that's why its so confusing to me but all that aside atleast there isn't anything busted off the block and so on.. here is the next question I got for you guys,
do I try and jack the motor up to get the mount out, fix whatever is screwed up and re install or is the only way to do this to pull the engine completely? I think if I remove my wiper motor I can jack the engine up a little bit anyways and maby enough to get the thing out and really see whats happening, I cant believe there is only 1 bolt that holds the mount to the car itself but maby im mistken and there is another bolt hiding on either side. either way what you guys think on how to swap out the mount?

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was trying to post picks but its all black so pretty worthless, just wish I could find a pic of whats mounts I got outside of the car, closest thing I can find that I think they look like is this, and the stud "or bolt" you see that holds the 2 halves together is whats busted on mine

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Should be able to jack the engine 1 side at a time and wrestle them suckers in there. Glad you found the issue!:hello2:

 

[jakepup]

yep and to make it even better once I got it on the hoist I came to find the bolt was never busted off!!! the melon heads "like everything else on the car" left it loose, after getting it in the air and fishing the bolt out found it to be that they didn't have the correct length bolt "has to be short so it doesn't hit the block" so they cut off a grade 5 in the chop saw, installed it with a regular nut and no locktite lol, found the nut laying in the topside of the motor mount, so now i'm waiting on the torque strap so I can do it all at once and will remove passenger side motor mount bolt and driver side and jack under the pan until I can remove the driver side mount , put it back together "the correct way" and try and fish it back in as one piece

.......... now to add another question on a totally different subject,, car has all new wildwood dynalite disc brakes front and rear, new 8" booster, new master cylinder ect...brakes have always worked just fine besides a little squeaking at slow "low braking" conditions. anyways the other day "before finding motor mount issue" all of sudden the brakes start squealing loudly while driving 35 mph, hit the brakes and all noise goes away, start driving again and the only way to get squealing to stop is to hold a lil pressure on the brakes. when I drove it over to put it on the lift to check motor mount everything was all peach with the brakes for 4 miles and after they were applied a few times and got warm the squealing started again, pulled it into the bay to put it on the lift and car wouldn't even roll in neutral, go it up on lift and couldn't even turn the front tires, after 10 min they turned with a little drag and after 25 in they spun pretty easy, "never thought of checking the rears".. where does a guy start on something like that?

btw.. I owe all you guys a drink for all the advice and help with this fiasco, hopefully I can repay the favor someday.

ps, went through ever bolt underneath the car and all is now good, few loose ones here and there but nothing like the motor mount situation

 

[Homstead]

I would make sure the master cylinder pushrod length is correct. If it doesn't release all the way that could be your problem

 

[jakepup]

I would make sure the master cylinder pushrod length is correct. If it doesn't release all the way that could be your problem

yea I will check that out, thanks

 

[jakepup]

ok guys,,, that wasn't as bad as I thought, thanks so much for the advice of just jacking the motor up, what we ended up doing was putting the car up on the lift and putting a 4x4 up against a 2x12 on the oil pan and taking both bottom mount bolt out and just setting the car down on the 4x4 and it went like cake, I bet we had old one out, but back together "the correct way" and back in in about 1.25 hours......... as for the brakes we checked every single line for tightness, bled the system again and checked pushrod length and the problem is still occurring, guessing it must be in the master or diaphram

 

[Pointblank]

Awesome car! You dont by chance have a pic of how you run the butterfly linkage do you? I am looking for a clean way to do it with the sideways carbs.