Building my first performance engine.

[combatsp]

Hi,
I'm new to the site. I am building my first performance engine. Well, my first engine of any kind really. I bought a 440 (.030 over) off C List already built to slightly above stock specs. I am putting on Stealth heads(CNC ported). I figured I would try them out after a lot of research and reading reviews. The cam was a .480 lift and I am replacing it with a .545 lift comp cam(hydraulic flat tappet). It has Crane gold roller rockers 1.5. The intake on the engine had an out dated Edelbrock Streetmaster and I am replacing it with an Edelbrock Performer RPM. It came with a 750 Holley and I will be swapping my 800 Eddy from my 383 to the 440. It has Speed Pro pistons, 440 source rods, double timing chain and a steel forged crank all of which I am leaving in.
I am currently researching fuel pumps. I think I have narrowed it down to the Edelbrock mechanical fuel pump that the company recommends for use with the 800 CFM Eddy carb. It doesn't require a regulator. I believe it will support my engine just fine.
The engine will be going into my 1968 charger. It has a 727 reverse manual valve body. I believe the stall converter is 2400rpm which will need to be upgraded. 3.55 gears in the rear which will need upgraded. I also put in a 4 point harness to replace the lap belts. I will be putting Nitto drag radials on.
My goal is to get into the high 11's for some bracket racing. So far I have torn the top end apart and installed the cam and heads. Not too much further to go.

 

[SUPERSTOCKRACER]

your going to need some good compression to get there imo. you might be pretty close. i'd also go with a 4200 9" converter.

 

[BIGBLOCKTONY]

first hypo

hello, was wondering what your going too do with your 355 after you upgrade
:upside down:

 

[combatsp]

your going to need some good compression to get there imo. you might be pretty close. i'd also go with a 4200 9" converter.

I think the compression is around 10.1 to 1. I was hoping for closer to 11 to 1 but this will be fine for my first build. I haven't researched converters yet. The one you recommend, will that still be streetable? I will be driving this on the street from time to time. This may sound weird, but I do not want to go faster that 11.5 as I do not want to put a roll cage in the car. Eventually I will be in the market for a rolling chassis set up for racing. Then with what I learn from this experience I can set my power goals a little higher. And go faster. Thanks for the recommendation on the converter.

 

[SUPERSTOCKRACER]

I think the compression is around 10.1 to 1. I was hoping for closer to 11 to 1 but this will be fine for my first build. I haven't researched converters yet. The one you recommend, will that still be streetable? I will be driving this on the street from time to time. This may sound weird, but I do not want to go faster that 11.5 as I do not want to put a roll cage in the car. Eventually I will be in the market for a rolling chassis set up for racing. Then with what I learn from this experience I can set my power goals a little higher. And go faster. Thanks for the recommendation on the converter.

you'll be fine with a 9" on the street. i ran a 5300 8' on the street with no issues.
10:1 is gonna be rough get in the 11's. your cam is kinda small and with the heads flowing in the high 200's its gonna be close imo.
i would have loved to see 11.5:1 with a .590 roller cam and cnc ported heads.
not bashing here just from my experience.

 

[combatsp]

hello, was wondering what your going too do with your 355 after you upgrade
:upside down:

The 3.55's are toast. They make a loud humming noise. My father is an auto mechanic and he pulled them apart and they were wearing bad as if they were not set up properly when I had them installed 15 years ago.

 

[combatsp]

you'll be fine with a 9" on the street. i ran a 5300 8' on the street with no issues.
10:1 is gonna be rough get in the 11's. your cam is kinda small and with the heads flowing in the high 200's its gonna be close imo.
i would have loved to see 11.5:1 with a .590 roller cam and cnc ported heads.
not bashing here just from my experience.

Hey, I see your car pulls a good wheelie so any advise you have I will take. I have only been racing my 2009 Ram, so I have a lot to learn. Any brand converter I should stay away from or look into? I also need to make sure my Rear gears compliment my tire height. My tire height is 27.76 inches and I was looking at 4.10's or 3.92's. I had seen a calculator online but can't locate it now.

 

[SUPERSTOCKRACER]

Hey, I see your car pulls a good wheelie so any advise you have I will take. I have only been racing my 2009 Ram, so I have a lot to learn. Any brand converter I should stay away from or look into? I also need to make sure my Rear gears compliment my tire height. My tire height is 27.76 inches and I was looking at 4.10's or 3.92's. I had seen a calculator online but can't locate it now.

4.10's would be ideal for your combo. I like ati or turbo action for a converter. Lupo makes a nice 9" converter too.
i'm running 8" turbo action in my 65 plymouth and my 65 dodge coronet.

thats nothing.
here ya go
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41sHfcRf1FA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CfcSr0iwIs

 

[66 coronet deluxe]

The Edelbrock RPM intake may also hold you back. I'm running a single plane on similar engine you started with. I would look into a real good single plane with spacer.

 

[65-440]

i dont think the manifold will be an issue. Iv'e seen that manifold under comparison to others and it flowed VERY well ! Really good for both street and strip, atleast i think so !

 

[moparpoor]

You will need a solid lift cam.A turbo action converter about 3500 thru 4000 will work fine.They have a 10" that can be purchased tight to loose.You will need a little more lift to take advantage of the cnc head or 1.6 rocker arms probably better.That will help not to bleed so much compression off.Gasket match the intake/port.This should get you close to your goal.

 

[SUPERSTOCKRACER]

You will need a solid lift cam.A turbo action converter about 3500 thru 4000 will work fine.They have a 10" that can be purchased tight to loose.You will need a little more lift to take advantage of the cnc head or 1.6 rocker arms probably better.That will help not to bleed so much compression off.Gasket match the intake/port.This should get you close to your goal.

very well said :VB toast:

 

[combatsp]

You will need a solid lift cam.A turbo action converter about 3500 thru 4000 will work fine.They have a 10" that can be purchased tight to loose.You will need a little more lift to take advantage of the cnc head or 1.6 rocker arms probably better.That will help not to bleed so much compression off.Gasket match the intake/port.This should get you close to your goal.

The 1.6 rocker arms. It is my understanding that they simulate a higher lift cam. At what point do I need to start worrying about the valves hitting the pistons? How do I know if the valve reliefs in the pistons are deep enough to handle this setup without actually bolting it together and checking manually? Thanks for bringing up that point. It is something I didn't give a lot of thought.

Guys, the Turbo action 10" looks good to me. Not too bad of a price.

 

[combatsp]

Superstockracer, That is an awesome video. I love the bounce of the front end after the wheelstand.

 

[moparpoor]

You must mach up everything to be safe.You will have to do this for push rod measurement as well.Most pistons in the last few years will clear a .700 lift especially if they are .010 in the hole as most are.Look for a thin head gasket to help with the compression.You can reuse the head gasket as long as you dont damage it or run it through a heat cycle,some are reusable even then.A little extra work is worth the peace of mind to know its done correct!!!!!

 

[SUPERSTOCKRACER]

The 1.6 rocker arms. It is my understanding that they simulate a higher lift cam. At what point do I need to start worrying about the valves hitting the pistons? How do I know if the valve reliefs in the pistons are deep enough to handle this setup without actually bolting it together and checking manually? Thanks for bringing up that point. It is something I didn't give a lot of thought.

Guys, the Turbo action 10" looks good to me. Not too bad of a price.

you'll have to clay the pistons to see if you have enough piston to valve.
1:6 rockers you'll need to clearance the heads prior to assembly. the pushrods will rub.ask me how i know:evil6:

 

[wedge5]

There is a saying out there that I thought was very insightful: How fast do you want to spend.

H.P. isn't cheap. If you don't do the little things the first time, you will be doing them the next time real fast.

 

[383man]

Hi,
I'm new to the site. I am building my first performance engine. Well, my first engine of any kind really. I bought a 440 (.030 over) off C List already built to slightly above stock specs. I am putting on Stealth heads(CNC ported). I figured I would try them out after a lot of research and reading reviews. The cam was a .480 lift and I am replacing it with a .545 lift comp cam(hydraulic flat tappet). It has Crane gold roller rockers 1.5. The intake on the engine had an out dated Edelbrock Streetmaster and I am replacing it with an Edelbrock Performer RPM. It came with a 750 Holley and I will be swapping my 800 Eddy from my 383 to the 440. It has Speed Pro pistons, 440 source rods, double timing chain and a steel forged crank all of which I am leaving in.
I am currently researching fuel pumps. I think I have narrowed it down to the Edelbrock mechanical fuel pump that the company recommends for use with the 800 CFM Eddy carb. It doesn't require a regulator. I believe it will support my engine just fine.
The engine will be going into my 1968 charger. It has a 727 reverse manual valve body. I believe the stall converter is 2400rpm which will need to be upgraded. 3.55 gears in the rear which will need upgraded. I also put in a 4 point harness to replace the lap belts. I will be putting Nitto drag radials on.
My goal is to get into the high 11's for some bracket racing. So far I have torn the top end apart and installed the cam and heads. Not too much further to go.

Its not a bad combo but a few changes will get you easy 11's. I run a 440 in my 63 thats 10.0 comp with 906 heads and KB pistons. I run the MP .557 solid cam and at 3700 lbs I have run a best of 11.49 @ 116 so you can see you car has the ability for 11's with just a few changes. I use a 9.5 Dynamic converter that flashes about 4200 and drives like a normal converter on the street as I drive my car on the street all the time. Even with that cam you can get in the 11's but a solid cam would help. I use the Holley Street Dominator intake and a 850 DP. The Performer RPM is a great street/strip intake and will work good for you as will the Holley SD that I run. As for gears I run 4.30's but with 30" tall tires. If you run the common 28" tire 4.10's will work good. Good luck , Ron

 

[Plymouth_Bob]

hello, was wondering what your going too do with your 355 after you upgrade
:upside down:

Tony you looking for an engine???? i have a 440 block .060 never been built missing the main center cap pm me i have it in ny id be willing to sell it make me a good offer

 

[combatsp]

Its not a bad combo but a few changes will get you easy 11's. I run a 440 in my 63 thats 10.0 comp with 906 heads and KB pistons. I run the MP .557 solid cam and at 3700 lbs I have run a best of 11.49 @ 116 so you can see you car has the ability for 11's with just a few changes. I use a 9.5 Dynamic converter that flashes about 4200 and drives like a normal converter on the street as I drive my car on the street all the time. Even with that cam you can get in the 11's but a solid cam would help. I use the Holley Street Dominator intake and a 850 DP. The Performer RPM is a great street/strip intake and will work good for you as will the Holley SD that I run. As for gears I run 4.30's but with 30" tall tires. If you run the common 28" tire 4.10's will work good. Good luck , Ron

Nice looking car! Thanks for the advice on the tire size. I found some new Nitto 555's for $136/ea shipped.