Bumping up the 318 a bit

[JR_Charger]

Not run since early 2000's.

The condition of the camshaft -

The condition of the valvetrain -

The condition of the valvetrain -

This is as far as I've been in a motor before. It looks like the heads are held on with these bolts along the bottom of the head, and around the valvetrain -

I'll have to look into how to disassemble it from here. I thought the heads would unbolt and lift off, but I believe I've seen the pushrods installed after the head, so they must come out first.

If the pistons and cylinder walls look o.k., my game plan is going to be to mildly upgrade this engine and find another one to build for power later. I feel like I've got enough to sort on the car without the possibility of screwed up engine internals. Porting and polishing the heads seems reasonable. Uncle Tony bought a big grinder off Harbor Freight, but I've seen another guy do it with a Dremel. I picked up a bunch of grinding stones for another job a couple weeks ago, and ended up not needing them on that job, maybe I can use them here. If it turns out the Dremel isn't powerful enough, I'll get the big grinder. I have a feeling this won't be the last port and polish I do.

The only problem with my mild upgrade plan is, this is a great time to do the camshaft; and AFAIK supply chain issues haven't gotten any better. I don't have the experience to spot a bad cam or lifter. I don't know about camshaft bearings either. Looks like that would be hard to do with the block in the car, but after 5 years of restoration, I'd like it to have a little more grunt than it did when I last drove it.

 

[toolmanmike]

You might as well pull it and rebuild it, or just start thinking about building your dream engine now. It looks like this one may need more than a new set of gaskets and a fresh coat of paint here. It also sounds like you've never done this sort of thing before. This might be a good one to learn on. THere are many books on how to rebuild your small block Mopar. Buy a few and study up. You are already over your head it seems.

 

[Don Frelier]

The engine needs to come out.

 

[toolmanmike]

You need to start with a fresh/solid base. A 4 barrel and intake, dual exhaust and a nice distributor advance curve is a great start for a 318. Ported heads are way down the line as far as performance. Depending on what year the engine is, compression helps a lot. Hopping up a 8-1 compression ratio engine is like putting lipstick on a pig. The right way to do that is with some good pistons. 318's are easy to over cam. Too big of a cam and you are chasing your tail making it work with a high stall convertor and some different rear gears. Good luck.

 

[toolmanmike]

Here's some reading for you. Search results for query: 318 build

 

[68-500]

At the minimum you need to find some rockers and shafts. And then what Toolmanmike said.

 

[WileERobby]

Why not just get a magnum SB ?

 

[rumblefish360]

Why not just get a magnum SB ?

I’d say mostly because he has the LA on hand right in front of him. Why spend more money on an engine you don’t have?

 

[krazykuda]

The engine needs to come out.

Not really, I've resurrected some in similar condition...

Change the cam, pull the heads off and wire wheel any rust and debris off the cylinders and head combustion chambers with a 3" or 4" wire wheel on a drill... Use a shop vac to suck out any dirt and debris after wire wheel, then put each cylinder at TDC and blow out them clean with compressed air at 90 psi, then another shop vac at TDC.. Then bring each piston down to BDC and lube the cylinder walls generously with STP or Motor Honey and then start to assemble...

Check the valves by filling the combustion chambers with water with the head upside down and make sure the valves are not leaking... Put the heads back on, and then clean up the rocker arms and shafts... Install another cam in good shape with fresh lifters and put the rocker arms and push rods back on... Install a good double roller timing chain - the stock timing chains are junk and should be **** canned...

Then put the rest of it back together and fire it up...

 

[krazykuda]

Not run since early 2000's.

View attachment 1600785

The condition of the camshaft -

View attachment 1600786

View attachment 1600787The condition of the valvetrain -


View attachment 1600788

View attachment 1600789

The condition of the valvetrain -

View attachment 1600791

View attachment 1600792

View attachment 1600793

View attachment 1600794

This is as far as I've been in a motor before. It looks like the heads are held on with these bolts along the bottom of the head, and around the valvetrain -

View attachment 1600790

I'll have to look into how to disassemble it from here. I thought the heads would unbolt and lift off, but I believe I've seen the pushrods installed after the head, so they must come out first.

If the pistons and cylinder walls look o.k., my game plan is going to be to mildly upgrade this engine and find another one to build for power later. I feel like I've got enough to sort on the car without the possibility of screwed up engine internals. Porting and polishing the heads seems reasonable. Uncle Tony bought a big grinder off Harbor Freight, but I've seen another guy do it with a Dremel. I picked up a bunch of grinding stones for another job a couple weeks ago, and ended up not needing them on that job, maybe I can use them here. If it turns out the Dremel isn't powerful enough, I'll get the big grinder. I have a feeling this won't be the last port and polish I do.

The only problem with my mild upgrade plan is, this is a great time to do the camshaft; and AFAIK supply chain issues haven't gotten any better. I don't have the experience to spot a bad cam or lifter. I don't know about camshaft bearings either. Looks like that would be hard to do with the block in the car, but after 5 years of restoration, I'd like it to have a little more grunt than it did when I last drove it.

Here's a series of articles on how to build a small block Mopar that I'm working on... I'm halfway there and am working on doing some more in the future...

Heres from the beginning:

How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 1: Block Prep | For A Bodies Only Mopar Forum

My last one on timing chains, you can look at and then look back to any of the past ones that you may need:

How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 10A (Optional): Timing Chain Options | For A Bodies Only Mopar Forum

 

[krazykuda]

Why not just get a magnum SB ?

Why???

LA small blocks are great engines...

 

[R413]

The rockers and shafts have sludge buildup on them. Does this make them not function and need replaced? Take the shaft assemblies off and clean them

Cam looks fine for a used cam, the wear surface is not all the way across the lobe only about half, like it should be.

Yep it's dirty. It's a used engine, o see nothing fatal, no water or rust in there. Porting heads with a stock cam is just about a waste of time.

First thing to do is see. What gear ratio on the rear axle. If it is a 2.7 then it's always going to be a dog unless it has about 300 horsepower. Swap in some 3.23's and it will "bump it up a bit" and still be able to go on the freeway with reasonable RPM

 

[WileERobby]

I’d say mostly because he has the LA on hand right in front of him. Why spend more money on an engine you don’t have?

Why???

LA small blocks are great engines...

Not sure which route would be more cost effective. I would cost-out the 318 build vs. the magnum swap... go from there. To each his own. Yes, I know all about LA engines, started working on them 55 years ago.

 

[VANDAN]

I've seen 360 crate motors, complete, with 3yr warranty, for around $5k. Ready to go, if time is an issue ???

 

[Don Frelier]

Not really, I've resurrected some in similar condition...

Change the cam, pull the heads off and wire wheel any rust and debris off the cylinders and head combustion chambers with a 3" or 4" wire wheel on a drill... Use a shop vac to suck out any dirt and debris after wire wheel, then put each cylinder at TDC and blow out them clean with compressed air at 90 psi, then another shop vac at TDC.. Then bring each piston down to BDC and lube the cylinder walls generously with STP or Motor Honey and then start to assemble...

Check the valves by filling the combustion chambers with water with the head upside down and make sure the valves are not leaking... Put the heads back on, and then clean up the rocker arms and shafts... Install another cam in good shape with fresh lifters and put the rocker arms and push rods back on... Install a good double roller timing chain - the stock timing chains are junk and should be **** canned...

Then put the rest of it back together and fire it up...

If I was going to do all that I'd still take it out.
45 minutes and I would have it on a stand.
What about the crank bearings?
Sure is easier to check them on a stand.

 

[68-500]

I thought that it looked like huge scale rust. If its sludge, send it.

 

[rumblefish360]

Not sure which route would be more cost effective. I would cost-out the 318 build vs. the magnum swap... go from there. To each his own. Yes, I know all about LA engines, started working on them 55 years ago.

If cost effective is his goal……

 

[JR_Charger]

You need to start with a fresh/solid base. A 4 barrel and intake, dual exhaust and a nice distributor advance curve is a great start for a 318. Ported heads are way down the line as far as performance. Depending on what year the engine is, compression helps a lot. Hopping up a 8-1 compression ratio engine is like putting lipstick on a pig. The right way to do that is with some good pistons. 318's are easy to over cam. Too big of a cam and you are chasing your tail making it work with a high stall convertor and some different rear gears. Good luck.

I took the Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold and Holley 600cfm four barrel off yesterday.

First thing to do is see. What gear ratio on the rear axle. If it is a 2.7 then it's always going to be a dog unless it has about 300 horsepower. Swap in some 3.23's and it will "bump it up a bit" and still be able to go on the freeway with reasonable RPM

Yeah, it's highway gears. I'm not planning to keep the lo-po stuff forever. It seems wise to avoid having too many things to sort at once.

If I was going to do all that I'd still take it out.
45 minutes and I would have it on a stand.
What about the crank bearings?
Sure is easier to check them on a stand.

If I have to pull the engine, that's a whole different program. If the cylinder walls don't look good, I'll definitely change my plans.

I thought that it looked like huge scale rust. If its sludge, send it.

It's sludge.

 

[JR_Charger]

I've seen 360 crate motors, complete, with 3yr warranty, for around $5k. Ready to go, if time is an issue ???

I thought I'd learn something about heads, since these aren't worth much.

 

[Cranky]

The engine looks kinda crusty to me.....get the books and pull it apart and document the tear down with pics and notes. Look at everything closely and learn learn learn. My first engine was pretty clean at tear down but my first engines to tear apart were lawn mower and edger engines....