JR_Charger
Well-Known Member
It's not something I'm going to be happy with over the long term, but if the consensus is on a full tear down than I will rethink my plans.
Bumping up the 318 a bit
- Thread starter JR_Charger
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How was the engine running before you started looking at it?
JR_Charger
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When I parked it in the 2000's it ran great.
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Sorry if I missed it but how long was it sitting before you tore into it? Also, was it sitting outside for years?
JR_Charger
Well-Known Member
No, the car has been in that spot in the garage the whole time.
I've got most of it restored. I'm down to the engine, paint and body. I need to get the front suspension aligned, and I'm a little concerned about getting that done as it's now clear the k-member is not self aligning as I was told. I hope I can find someone who can deal with that.
But, as far as weather goes, the only problem I have is that fog can get into my garage and it condensates on everything. It was bad a few nights ago, which is why my new master cylinder is turning to rust. I'm not happy about that, but it's a cheap master cylinder I was only planning to use until I convert to discs.
I've got most of it restored. I'm down to the engine, paint and body. I need to get the front suspension aligned, and I'm a little concerned about getting that done as it's now clear the k-member is not self aligning as I was told. I hope I can find someone who can deal with that.
But, as far as weather goes, the only problem I have is that fog can get into my garage and it condensates on everything. It was bad a few nights ago, which is why my new master cylinder is turning to rust. I'm not happy about that, but it's a cheap master cylinder I was only planning to use until I convert to discs.
Have you tried to turn the crankshaft?
JR_Charger
Well-Known Member
I gave it a little bump a couple weeks ago to test the starter. I don't think it's locked up but I can go try it by hand to be sure.
Yes turn it by hand 2 full revolutions.
If it gets really tough then stop and unbolt the rocker arms since you likely have a stuck valve.
JR_Charger
Well-Known Member
I was able to turn it with my hands. Not "easy," but I didn't need tools. It was interesting listening to the engine hiss.
That is a good sign for sure.
JR_Charger
Well-Known Member
I should mention that I drained the oil out of it a few months ago. It wouldn't hurt if I took the oil pan back off and checked for rust. Back then I was planning to have the motor out and torn down by now, but everything is taking far far too long, and I mean everything.
JR_Charger
Well-Known Member
Forgot the center link is in the way of taking the pan off on this car. I'll take the center link off if necessary, but from what I can see there's no rust in there.
hdwrench
Well-Known Member
it looks like an old high mileage engine , if it runs as is i run it as is . or get it out a go thru the whole engine. but i would look into a good core 360 engine and put the upgrades into the next engine . meanwhile you could run the 318 as is and get ya around the yard at least . when ya get the 360 swap them out and now you are ready to rip… just remember when you build the engine ur going to burden the tranny , and then the driveshaft, and the the rear end , and then the tires …..think about the whole package it’s not just one piece….
JR_Charger
Well-Known Member
After reading through the replies I think cleaning this one up to where it will run o.k. for a while is the way to go, and I'll throw new parts at a new engine. I'll pull the heads, drill out a couple broken bolts, clean everything up, check the valves for leaks, check the condition of the cylinder walls, and put it back together.
JR_Charger
Well-Known Member
That is a good sign for sure.
What I saw is about like this -
I thought mine might have been a little difficult to turn over, but he's struggling a bit with that big wrench, so I think I'm o.k.
JR_Charger
Well-Known Member
Silly question, what's the legality of long tube headers on a 72? I have no 02 sensor or catylitic convertor, just the little fenderwell tank that picks up evaporated gas from the carb. Can't imagine long tube headers would make the emissions any worse.
Now, go work on the car or watch another video about working on the car? I've learned a few things that are good to know but nothing got done (or done wrong!).
Now, go work on the car or watch another video about working on the car? I've learned a few things that are good to know but nothing got done (or done wrong!).
JR_Charger
Well-Known Member
318willrun goes front to back removing head bolts, Slantfish works from the center out (like installing). Do they have to be removed from the center out? I don't know why that would be, but I don't know a lot of things. I know that I watched another video instead of wrenching . . .
JR_Charger
Well-Known Member
Rocker arms and pushrods removed and organized -
Gonna need a bigger breaker bar to get the head bolts loose. They're only supposed to be 90 ft/lbs but it feels like more than that - but maybe that's because I'm stretching over the fender.
I've got these old Hedman headers from 94 or so. I was going to put TTI on it, but these are here and I suppose they'll be fine until I get drop spindles on the front.
I'm wondering about the lip here where the pipes weld to the mounting plate, will this be able to seal o.k.?
I ordered these and a crossover pipe and mufflers when I was 18 or 19 - didn't know anything about cars or anybody who knew anything about cars. The pipe sizes may not match up. On the headers, it looks like I've got 1 3/4" pipes dumping into a 3" pipe -
I'll have to measure the other stuff later.
Gonna need a bigger breaker bar to get the head bolts loose. They're only supposed to be 90 ft/lbs but it feels like more than that - but maybe that's because I'm stretching over the fender.
I've got these old Hedman headers from 94 or so. I was going to put TTI on it, but these are here and I suppose they'll be fine until I get drop spindles on the front.
I'm wondering about the lip here where the pipes weld to the mounting plate, will this be able to seal o.k.?
I ordered these and a crossover pipe and mufflers when I was 18 or 19 - didn't know anything about cars or anybody who knew anything about cars. The pipe sizes may not match up. On the headers, it looks like I've got 1 3/4" pipes dumping into a 3" pipe -
I'll have to measure the other stuff later.
JR_Charger
Well-Known Member
Got a 24" breaker bar. Much nicer to work with but the mail took forever. Anyway, head bolts are out and one head is off. The pistons appear to have plenty of carbon on them - I've never been into an engine this far before, but I'm guessing that's what it is. I was hoping to see some cross hatching on the cylinder walls, but none is apparent.
I'm having trouble getting the driver's side head off. I watched a Slantfish video on Youtube and he had the same problem with the driver's side head. He worked a drywall putty knife under the head until it loosened up. I haven't had any luck with that yet.
I'm having trouble getting the driver's side head off. I watched a Slantfish video on Youtube and he had the same problem with the driver's side head. He worked a drywall putty knife under the head until it loosened up. I haven't had any luck with that yet.
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