Cam Manufacturers?

[Ron Ward]

Way back in 1989, I built the 440 for my 1969 Road Runner when I worked at a local machine shop. Last year, unfortunately, two lobes got wiped off the old MP .484/284 camshaft.... So, it's time to go through the engine, clean out the nasties, install new bearings and, most importantly, install a new camshaft and lifters.

The combination is as such:

1969 Plymouth Road Runner street/strip use
4-speed transmission
3.91 gear
weight with driver: 3510
1968 440 block, decked .020"
milled and template-ported 906 heads with bronze guides and hardened seats
9.55:1 compression ratio (measured) with old TRW cast pistons
forged crank (stock stroke)
Weiand Xcelerator intake
Holley 3310-1 carb
Hooker 1-7/8" headers
3" full length exhaust

I have been seriously pondering using a hydraulic roller, so as to minimize the chance of flattened lobes. Based on online research, I've narrowed my selection down to two manufacturers: Comp and Lunati. I've chosen these two simply based on track record, customer service and availability of replacement parts. I'm looking at something in the .520"-.550" lift range for use between 2000-6000 rpm.

Checking in with y'all to see what your thoughts are as to the quality and reliability of these two manufacturers. Yes, I understand there are other vendors for such items, but I really like the idea of having "off the shelf" items available if replacement parts are needed.

Also, if a hydraulic roller is used, what's your thoughts on rocker arms and pushrods? Lunati shows part numbers in their catalog, but I cannot find the parts available. Comp, however, does have stock, but YOWZA! They are stupidly expensive....

Any and all suggestions appreciated.

Thanks,

Ron

 

[dieseldazzle]

I've had such bad luck with roller cams and lifters both hydraulic and solid in chevy ford and mopar the past 7 years I be just started using edm solids. So far so good.

 

[Yatzee]

Way back in 1989, I built the 440 for my 1969 Road Runner when I worked at a local machine shop. Last year, unfortunately, two lobes got wiped off the old MP .484/284 camshaft.... So, it's time to go through the engine, clean out the nasties, install new bearings and, most importantly, install a new camshaft and lifters.

The combination is as such:

1969 Plymouth Road Runner street/strip use
4-speed transmission
3.91 gear
weight with driver: 3510
1968 440 block, decked .020"
milled and template-ported 906 heads with bronze guides and hardened seats
9.55:1 compression ratio (measured) with old TRW cast pistons
forged crank (stock stroke)
Weiand Xcelerator intake
Holley 3310-1 carb
Hooker 1-7/8" headers
3" full length exhaust

I have been seriously pondering using a hydraulic roller, so as to minimize the chance of flattened lobes. Based on online research, I've narrowed my selection down to two manufacturers: Comp and Lunati. I've chosen these two simply based on track record, customer service and availability of replacement parts. I'm looking at something in the .520"-.550" lift range for use between 2000-6000 rpm.

Checking in with y'all to see what your thoughts are as to the quality and reliability of these two manufacturers. Yes, I understand there are other vendors for such items, but I really like the idea of having "off the shelf" items available if replacement parts are needed.

Also, if a hydraulic roller is used, what's your thoughts on rocker arms and pushrods? Lunati shows part numbers in their catalog, but I cannot find the parts available. Comp, however, does have stock, but YOWZA! They are stupidly expensive....

Any and all suggestions appreciated.

Thanks,

Ron

In order to get a highly reliable valve train I recommend roller "everything". I am a big fan of Lunati whose track record and engineering is impeccable. You go with what ever you wish. I use solid roller lifters and roller rockers and the only downside is that they need to be checked for clearances a couple times a year. That's normal.

 

[66Satellite47]

In the old days my luck with Comp was not real good. If you have an engine builder that has a good relationship with one of the real "tech" guys I think you can get a good product. My Lunati solid roller was a bad *** piece, but it took a while to find valve springs that would live. I think valve springs are a lot better today. My favorite is still my antique General Kinetics mushroom lifter cam. That made about the same power as the 690 Lunati roller. I may actually put the GK cam in my 512.

 

[wyrmrider]

Let's talk roller hyd or solid
Mechanical / physical limits acceleration so it's hard to match a FT design
The bigger the grinding wheel the harder it is
best way is to use an inverse radius design which is hard to do and make it work
Inverse radius cannot be ground on standard production camgrinders (but rough grind can) and finish must be done on small wheel by hand the old fashioned way
do you have head flows?
contact Mike Jones and get a straight answer
if you do go FT get a design for a .904 lifter not chevy
for roller get rollers with larger wheel than can be use in Ford or Chevy- every little bit of advantage helps

 

[rumblefish360]

Let's talk roller hyd or solid
Mechanical / physical limits acceleration so it's hard to match a FT design
The bigger the grinding wheel the harder it is
best way is to use an inverse radius design which is hard to do and make it work
Inverse radius cannot be ground on standard production camgrinders (but rough grind can) and finish must be done on small wheel by hand the old fashioned way
do you have head flows?
contact Mike Jones and get a straight answer
if you do go FT get a design for a .904 lifter not chevy
for roller get rollers with larger wheel than can be use in Ford or Chevy- every little bit of advantage helps

I like this for a very high performance mill.

@Ron Ward

Since you had a Hyd. cam in there, do you want to stay with a Hyd. cam?
Did you like the way the purple 284/.484 performed?
Comp Cams has there own version. It's actually a split grind with very similar specs.
It ask (&I make mention of the Comp cam) because changing duration to much will (may) require a stall converter change. If you go that far.

 

[mentor70]

i have a Lunati Voodoo HR in my 440. but i also recently bought a Voodoo HR for my 5.0 ford, and guess what, Comp cams made it black label for Lunati. so even if you buy a Lunati stick it could be a Comp cam anyway. but im fairly sure my Mopar cam was made by Lunati.

Hughes Engines also has Hydraulic rollers, they are made by Howards cams. i bought one of those too, it came with a defect, i sent it back, they replaced it, but it took a stupid long time.

im using the Comp cams Pro magnum rockers with Trend performance pushrods and Hughes engines lifters.

 

[wyrmrider]

the purple shafts are obsolete by today's standards, not as lazy as the stock Magnum but not pushing the envelope
IDK if the Comp is on their chevy masters or their newer MOPAR only grinds, you have to check the grind catalogue and cross reference, and ps most of their tech line guys won't know
what is the duration at .006 on your purple shaft? (advertised durations for MOPAR are not comparable but they are consistent between grinds)

 

[moper]

I'm not a big proponent of hydraulic rollers in situations where a flat tappet can easily do the job. Small hydraulic rollers simply lose power due to weight and design and the entire reason they're marketed is to play on fears of inadequate oil availability. However oil is the least important denominator.
If you want to go roller, spend the coin and go solid roller and put a street roller in it. You will spend a lot of money to get that insurance of not going flat. With a hydraulic roller you won't get any more power and you'll spend 3 times the money. Better to spend four times and get results.
Or, use a flat tappet (I would recommend a Crane hydraulic H302-2 in this case), measure the lifter bores, check for lifter rotation, use a break in paste not liquid, turn over the engine as few times as possible once the lifters are in place, break in the cam without the inner springs, make sure fuel and ignition and cooling systems are ready, and prime the oil and fuel systems so it fires instantly. Then run at least a diesel grade oil, or some of the racier stuff that's available.

 

[wyrmrider]

Crane will make your MOPAR run suboptimal- you want a chevy build a chevy
MOPAR grind will allow 10 degrees less seat duration with same 50 up motion or more lift or area at same seat duration
why compromise your low end