Cam specs

[Hemirunner]

The cam is installed in the block 4 degrees advanced

What was the intake lobe centerline after degreeing it?

 

[old guys rule]

What was the intake lobe centerline after degreeing it?

Did not agree the can just installed it 4 degrees advanced on the cam gear so I'm guessing 116

 

[old guys rule]

Angle suggest 3 degrees advanced

 

[beanhead]

Did not agree the can just installed it 4 degrees advanced on the cam gear so I'm guessing 116

Oh no guessing's not allowed!
If it was advanced 4 degrees,the installed centerline would actually be 108....but if it wasn't degreed it could be anywhere.
Before I thought degreeing was important I installed a cam by the dots and when I tore it down many years later, it was over 7 degrees retarded...way beyond "just a couple from chain stretch". Ran like it too. You just can't trust the manufacturers anymore unfortunately. And there was just a fella over on FABO that had a new timing set with the cam sprocket dot marked one tooth off...if he'd of just run it he'd likely have smashed the valves into the pistons.

 

[old guys rule]

You're right on both counts. Guilty as charged.

 

[beanhead]

You're right on both counts. Guilty as charged.

If you're past the point of no return, please at least rotate the engine multiple times by hand(no spark plugs) and make absolutely certain its 100% smooth and there are no 'hangups' or spots where it momentarily drags or stops, no funny noises.....
If it's only off a couple of degrees from not degreeing the cam, it may not even make much of a noticeable difference from the driver's seat.

You just don't want parts hitting---that ruins your day lickity split...

 

[old guys rule]

If you're past the point of no return, please at least rotate the engine multiple times by hand(no spark plugs) and make absolutely certain its 100% smooth and there are no 'hangups' or spots where it momentarily drags or stops, no funny noises.....
If it's only off a couple of degrees from not degreeing the cam, it may not even make much of a noticeable difference from the driver's seat.

You just don't want parts hitting---that ruins your day lickity split...

 

[old guys rule]

8.2 to 1 compression ratio for 87 pump... lots of room. But thanks for the concern.

 

[PRHeads]

“In theory”, the cam would be ground so that if it were installed dot-to-dot, the timing points would be as they are on the cam card.
Sometimes it just doesn’t happen that way, which is why it’s really a good idea to always at least check the cam timing with a degree wheel, so you know where it is actually installed.

The timing event figures on this card indicate an intake C/L of 110*.
If that was where it came out with it dot-to-dot, and then you advanced it 4*, it would be installed at 106*.

In the 40 years I have been messing with these things, I have personally had my hands on 4 different timing sets that had the dot on the upper gear on the wrong tooth.
I always check the cam timing, no matter how mild the build.

 

[old guys rule]

Good advice. Thanks.

 

[BSB67]

In the 40 years I have been messing with these things, I have personally had my hands on 4 different timing sets that had the dot on the upper gear on the wrong tooth.

It seems to me like it is much worse now than 30+ years ago. What's your observation?

 

[PRHeads]

It seems to me like it is much worse now than 30+ years ago. What's your observation?

Well, the first one I ran into was in the mid-80’s, the next one maybe 4 years or so later.
The next ones were probably 10-15 years after that.
For the last 15 years or so I generally use a billet set with a 9-way bottom gear(+/- 8 degrees).
With those, it doesn’t matter if the dot is on the wrong tooth or not(as long as you’re decreeing the am in)....... you can still get the cam dialed in within a degree or so.

 

[BSB67]

Well, the first one I ran into was in the mid-80’s, the next one maybe 4 years or so later.
The next ones were probably 10-15 years after that.
For the last 15 years or so I generally use a billet set with a 9-way bottom gear(+/- 8 degrees).
With those, it doesn’t matter if the dot is on the wrong tooth or not(as long as you’re decreeing the am in)....... you can still get the cam dialed in within a degree or so.

None of few 9 way billets that I've used were correct to their markings, but, as you say, could make them work. But then again, you dont really know if its the gear set, cam or aftermarket crank.

 

[PRHeads]

Right.

The key for me is, with nothing more than moving the bottom gear to a different keyway........ it can be within a degree.

You can start the cam degreeing process, and know you’ll be able to complete it without having to stop and get other parts.

I don’t really care which keyway I end up using........ as long as the cam is where I want it.

 

[Hemirunner]

None of few 9 way billets that I've used were correct to their markings, but, as you say, could make them work. But then again, you dont really know if its the gear set, cam or aftermarket crank.

It’s all of that plus the bore location to the crank centerline, the lifter bore alignment, basically tolerance stack up of all of it combined with the accuracy of the checking equipment and the skill of the user. You’ll get a big accuracy difference just between the small pie plate wheels and the big professional degree wheels.

 

[old guys rule]

If you're past the point of no return, please at least rotate the engine multiple times by hand(no spark plugs) and make absolutely certain its 100% smooth and there are no 'hangups' or spots where it momentarily drags or stops, no funny noises.....
If it's only off a couple of degrees from not degreeing the cam, it may not even make much of a noticeable difference from the driver's seat.

You just don't want parts hitting---that ruins your day lickity split...

Already done. No worries mate. Thanks