Can I do this in a garage?

[Inspector71]

My 68 Charger is definitely rusty. A body shop suggested a rotisserie. But the cost, plust having to take out all the glass and everything else got me wondering if I can do this another way. The front fenders are off and the drivetrain out. The trunk will have to be replaced, the right quater panel for sure and maybe the left one as well. The only part that would still be under the car is the floor board section. As far as I can tell, they are in great shape. So all I really need to do is get the rust and dirt off the bottom of the floor boards. Can that be done without having to go the rotisserie route? Its not so much the money as it is the challenge. I won't have any help with this any time soon. Thanks in advance.

 

[b-body-bob]

You can put it up on jackstands and have at it, but how effective it is will mostly depend on your tolerance for getting crap in your eyes, nose, mouth, and ears.

 

[WileERobby]

It can be done, but there's a very important factor to address beforehand. If there's to be considerable rust repairs, it's best to level, square & jig the car BEFORE attacking the rust repairs. Putting new metal on a dimensionally flawed car will result in a ruined vehicle.

 

[Cranky]

I've done several cars on jack stands and it's a pita for sure. I just don't have the room for storing the rig let alone put a car on it so I'm still doing it on jack stands....and the older you get, the more a pita it is.

 

[Propwash]

Heck ya you can........I just did. I'm still young enough to bounce all around the car without any issues though. Someone not in the best of shape or reaching their later years could definitley run into issues. One big thing to remember is lots of pictures for reference and lots of measurments

 

[64Belvedere]

Wow Prop, That ride is sure a long ways from what rolled in. Great looking car.

 

[zyzzyx]

Rotisserie

O.K., So is the guy at the bodyshop saying to put the car on a rotisserie and cut it apart and then replace all of the panels? I'd be afraid the thing would look like an Edsel when you put it on the ground! At the factory the car moves down the assembly line on a jig/frame as all of the body panels are spot welded on. you have to try to keep things from moving when you cut them apart. I have to replace my rear quarters, and i'm going to use six jack stands and tack weld a square tube across the trunk opening. Any advice from the "Experienced Ones"?

 

[dave5237]

Heck ya you can........I just did. I'm still young enough to bounce all around the car without any issues though. Someone not in the best of shape or reaching their later years could definitley run into issues. One big thing to remember is lots of pictures for reference and lots of measurments

That thing looks sweet PROP. How much longer till your done with your car?

 

[Donny]

The biggest part of having a rotisserie is how much EASIER your work becomes! Have at it, these cars are remarkably stout, even after you pull panels off, steel is an amazing material, flexible and strong.

 

[detmatt1]

Definitely doable! I built a rolling steel carriage that acted as platform to keep things square while I r & rd most of a '68 Road Runner. There are several resto threads on this site that you can use as directions for your own project. props is a fine example.

 

[Propwash]

Depends Dave.....As soon as I can get Congress to release some more funds for the powerplant, i'll be ready to roll. Other than that, I really don't have a whole lot left to do.

Zyzzyx,

With replacing your quarters....Replace one at a time if you're worried about shift. The cars that go on a rotisserie do not belong having all there panels and pans ripped off without careful thought on where to place the bracing. These cars are unibodies and they do flex. If you're gonna put the car on stands, level it all the way around. Use rubber shims to fine tune the leveling. I use a digital level with the old fashioned bubble as well. Use a plumb bob and measure at key points on the car to the floor. Then measure across and diagonally in the key areas like frame rails, jams across the pans. Map it all for future reference. Pictures are very helpful as well. Hope it helps. Check out the resto threads. Plenty of guys over there with Jigs, rolling jigs and rotisseries that should give you some ideas.

Here's one of several maps I put together for the roadrunner. Kind of an example...Obviously had a bit more maping to do with the whole rear being rotted apart.

 

[Lowhound]

I wasnt sure how much flex I would have when I started removing rusted panels. So I welded several temporary pieces of square tubing from side to side between the frame rails & between the door openings before I started. I may have over did it some but better safe than sorry

 

[b-star69]

can i do this

CAN WE DO IT YES WE CAN ! Many thanks to every one who replyed to this tread.I have replaced the floor pans in my bird ,quarters are next. The vote of confedense we give each other is what makes MOPAR guys so awesome!:hello2:

 

[detmatt1]

All you need is a garage, lots of planning and some good tools to pull this off.
A Blair spot weld cutter is your friend.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Mind boggling....Yes it's true us old guys at least me could never do it lol I would almost be willing to trade my 383 and a833 for some body and paint work.

 

[northerndave]

Detroit Matt's balls are so big he has to wear a kilt because nobody makes pants he can wear.

 

[detmatt1]

Not sure if that's actually a compliment or not, I would think that it would be near impossible to restore a car with balls that big. They would constantly be getting hung up on crossbracing!

 

[Cranky]

A rotisserie has it's place but imo, a jig (fixture in the PC world ) is the way I like to go when it comes to a car that will have many panels cut off and re-welded. As for measurements to the shop floor......I've found that my cars move when I work on em. It's not much but it still moves some especially when I'm banging on it etc and found that my shop settled quite a bit in last summer's drought. The place moved enough to buckle the plywood paneling on the wall and affect the way the over head doors close!! Yeah, the ground here is kinda wet in normal conditions and shrinks when it drys up. I over built the slab but that was back in 84 and I would have had to use huge steel beams in the slab back then to prevent it from moving in the conditions we had last summer so for me, having a heavy duty steel jig for major surgery is the only way to go then once the car is complete enough it can go on a rotisserie for the other work....and it sure is nice to weld in frame ties etc standing up instead of laying on your back!

 

[Inspector71]

For Propwash

Two comments, first when can you fit me into your schedule. You sir, do superb work. Posting pictures like yours is more important than you may realize. I am not experienced at this, even though I'm far from young, and there are days I go out into the garage and wonder if it is worth it. And then I see your pictures, am inspired, and get back to work again. The final product, your car, is outstanding. Like I said, I'm inspired.

 

[Inspector71]

For all those who replied

I should have come to this forum a long time ago. This has been quite an education for me. I was not very clear in explaining what I plan to do. I have no plans to do any of the body work myself. I am going to have to save up the bucks and take that part of the job to a professional. What I was wondering was this, since I will have the rear quarters and trunk replaced (no surprise there) and if I cannot save the two front fenders I'll buy the AMD fenders, I was wondering if I can get under the car and clean up what is left which would be the floor pan area and maybe a little more. The right wheel well is shot too. In fact, all the bad rust is on the right side not the drivers' side of the car. I hope this helps clear up any confusion. Again, thanks for the replies. I am going to print and save all your responses. I may even show them to my car to cheer her up.