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Can of rusty worms

Looks pretty close.
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Fit looks pretty good.

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Folded up the edges and deburring. Applied a bit of epoxy and should be able to weld them in place tomorrow.
 
Glenwood......all I can say is, go man go. Keep at it. This keeps me motivated to keep going. The wire covers look awesome.
I am not at the point you are, yet, but getting there. Just off the top of my head, I think that those wire covers are re-popped for the later model 66 and up Mopar's. I bet, they could be made to fit your application? Also if you need pictures of stock brackets and etc. I tried to take pictures of everything as my car was take apart. I have a bunch of pictures, currently 884. Anyway, keep at it. It is enjoyable following along as you get thing completed.
 
Glenwood......all I can say is, go man go. Keep at it. This keeps me motivated to keep going. The wire covers look awesome.
I am not at the point you are, yet, but getting there. Just off the top of my head, I think that those wire covers are re-popped for the later model 66 and up Mopar's. I bet, they could be made to fit your application? Also if you need pictures of stock brackets and etc. I tried to take pictures of everything as my car was take apart. I have a bunch of pictures, currently 884. Anyway, keep at it. It is enjoyable following along as you get thing completed.


Thanks Crumley. You & are are having a friendly 64 plymouth vs dodge restoration race! I couldn't find re-pop's so I figured I'd give it a shot. Once I weld these on tomorrow, I can raise the top and start picking away at the trunk pan and rear area. I should have the dash & internals back on soon too.
 
I like it! I rigged one of mine up with a u channel, pipe and press. Not near as good as yours but it covers wires lol.
 
I like it! I rigged one of mine up with a u channel, pipe and press. Not near as good as yours but it covers wires lol.

Thanks Mark. Seemed silly fabbing and installing the passenger side since there aren't any wires travelling through there. I contemplated leaving them out altogether and just use cable ties on the harness, but I thought the carpet would not lay down properly. They've been epoxied and welded in place.

I'm getting ready to tear out the trunk pan, so I raised the top after nearly a year. It looks good to see the top up again. Thankfully no mouse nests or any creases in the rear window.

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I started looking at how to remove the rear portion of the top to gain access to the forward section of the trunk pan.
This car must be Canadian as it has robertson (square) screws! lol
These will be replaced with stainless phillips (star) screws.
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The PO even used a wall plug as I guess the hole stretched.
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The well liner or cover (not sure what it is called) is glued onto the frame and wheel wells. I never realized that the top of the wheel wells on a convertible were flat. The tops of the wells are cut off and capped to make room for the top frame when it's down I guess.

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With the top up, the rear starts to stretch tight, so I'm thinking that the top will need to be raised up to release the tension before releasing and then again when re-attaching the top. I'm hoping that the rear can be re-attached without issue later, but I have no clue. I noticed there are rivets installed under the trim to secure the top. I'm wondering if that is to get the fabric into position until the 'tack strips' are installed...again, no clue.

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Spent the afternoon yesterday removing a bucket full of undercoating. Tried heating and scraping but it is slow and my back wasn't too happy. I used the scaler tool which worked really well. After a few hours, I got them scraped out for the most part. I'll try to clean them up with thinner or varisol. There's a few areas that will need patching.
Should be fun!
 
A few pics...
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This area is gooped with undercoating over a patch. Should be interesting to remove this and repatch with the new trunk extensions.

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Got the wheel wells cleared of undercoating and gooey tar that was hiding the rust. Nasty stuff. I'm going to try to patch them up so I made some patterns. I have to wait for the trunk extensions so that I can fit it all together properly. So onto the trunk removal...

The license plate light was painted over ugh! It was fun trying to remove this as it has tamper-proof screws...
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Started carving out the rusty pan with an air chisel. This looks like more work than the floor pan was.
I thought I was done diassembling the car...but nope, the bumper gotta come off.

The quarters are connected to the trunk extensions along the bottom and a couple of points extended from the frame. I left the rear tied as there won't be anything connecting the two quarters to the frame once removed and I'm concerned about any shifting that might occur. I'll work on one trunk extension at a time.

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Removing the fuel tank neck tunnel was a bear but necessary as the pan sits below.

Spot welds on the wheel wells and rear lip were cut. There's a trim piece that is in the way of cutting the rear spot welds in the center area. I cut holes for future weld spots but had to chisel these spot welds.
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Most of the pan is out now along with most of the trunk extensions. The PO basically repaired the quarters with sheet metal and folded it over the rusted extensions, then gooped a bucket full of tar over it all to seal it up. What a mess.
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Spent time cleaning the inside of the frame rails, vacuumed the crud and treated with some ospho.

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Now if I could just get my trunk pan delivery! I ordered it from Jegs as the AMD pieces are cheaper than direct from AMD. They won't ship it to me here so I'll have to make a trip to Niagara NY soon. I thought this would be faster anyhow but I can't even get a delivery date.
 
Glenwood, the heading for your build thread is sooooo correct. You have opened a can of rusty worms....lol. It is amazing what can be hidden under paint and undercoating. You should be a spot weld drilling pro by now. Keep chipping away at them old rust worms and keep the updates coming.
 
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