Carb gerus needed

[green1]

This is going to be long. Car-69 Charger 440, 727, 3.55, 28" tall tires. Ported iron, 2.06 valves. 9 or 9.5 cr, Light weight pistons, 1/16" rings. TTI, 1 7/8". Cam, who knows (Dvorack doesn't tell his tricks.). MSD 6AL, timing 17 and 36.Limiter 5500.

He said a mild duration, high lift. Sounds like a smaller purple at idle (15 vac), but doesn't need rpm for the cam to come in when you nail it; the car flies. Back road seat-of- the pants testing; 80 mph @ 1/8, and still going hard. Us old farts lift @ 110, still pulling hard , 5000 rpm

The problem: edelbrock 1411; runs great, plug readings good. Idles at 600 if you want it too, with 15 vac.

At idle, that eye-burning #$%^. Setting idle mix with the screws- tried highest vac, tried highest rpm. Still an eye-burner.

Do the primary rods affect idle mixture? If so; do you go fatter rod, or smaller rod? This is where we are lost. We put 7342 in it (110 original jet), and seemed to help midrange.

Lowered the fuel pressure to 5.5; it would fall on it's face. Running 7- 7.5 now, off the mech pump. Are the floats over-powered at idle?

 

[Meep-Meep]

You may want to check the springs under the metering rod pistons, or get the spring kit and install the ones for your idle vacuum. Use in gear idle vacuum reading if you have an auto tranny. Your fuel pressure is fine as is. Floats should be set at 7/16" on the Eddy carbs. Start with stock jets and rods and go from there. Do you have the manual for the carb? If not get it. If the cam has a significant amount of overlap (lumpy idle) it will produce a lot of hydrocarbons at idle - just the way it is.

 

[PoppaSmurf]

Green1 I am send you alink to the Carter AFB/AVS 4 bbl that I use tuning that style of carb including the Edel.... there are differences but this always has given me an understanding and base platform to work from...it's 40 pages long but 3rd page is the Chapter page, I am sure it will help...PLEASE LOOK at page 32 !!!!!!! it discribes your problem...http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/carterafbtuning.pdf

 

[green1]

Thanks for the reply. Springs-rods held down until blip the throttle. Have the manual. This is our confusion. Leaning the jets/rods affect idle mixture? If the primary metering is rich, will this make the adjustment of the idle mix screws too rich to adjust down?

 

[67 B-body]

I had the smelly eye burn stuff too. My house would smell awful after running just a few minutes in the driveway! Mine was way lean causing this nastyness..... Just a thought.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

What are the primary jets in the carb? To get the right combo of needles and springs for the idle air mix it helps to know what the primary's are. I just went through this. Stock jets with #5 hg(orange)springs and .070x.047 needles work well on my thunder 800 all kinds of low and top end. Did have a flat spot with smaller needles on the top but cured it with these needles. Get the book like meep says and a calibration kit a MUST HAVE. Good luck

 

[moparmarks]

Thanks for the reply. Springs-rods held down until blip the throttle. Have the manual. This is our confusion. Leaning the jets/rods affect idle mixture? If the primary metering is rich, will this make the adjustment of the idle mix screws too rich to adjust down?

Yes, the idle circuit is pulled off of the primary jets. Fatter rods and smaller jets leans it out. A 7342 rod should be plendy fat enough for sea level. As stated check the vacuum springs.

 

[green1]

Thanks for all the info. We started at #1 position on the rod/jet chart, then #4, #11. got better. At #15, runs great, still a fat idle, and this cam isn't that lumpy, 15 lbs vac at idle, rods down.

But no more combo's after #15.....