• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Changing radiator support from 22 to 26

Spare Parts

Well-Known Member
Local time
5:07 PM
Joined
May 17, 2020
Messages
911
Reaction score
2,509
Location
California
How difficult is it to change the radiator support from 22 inch to 26 inch on a 67 Plymouth
 
Why? No need to change or cut anything, just drill a couple holes for the bigger radiator is all that's needed!
 
Not a B-body, but I did this on my Volare when it got backed into and bent up the factory 22” core support. A day in the junkyard with a drill and a spot weld cutter netted me a Fifth Avenue 26” core support, and a weekend of cutting out spot welds and rewelding had it in the Volare.
EE2D6922-85D1-4631-ACEF-01BD6C4BAC95.jpeg

A3E6F752-15B7-4D3B-B24A-3D5FA84D3B55.jpeg

43EC008D-7CE3-4EA5-B913-42AA2C934F64.jpeg

C99C2955-604E-456D-85B5-9C2C1C6DD3D9.jpeg


In your case, if nothing is wrong with your 22” core, I’d look hard at just running a thick 22” radiator like the ECP. That, or do as 69a100 suggested and just put a 26” on the 22” support.
 
BOTH sides of the rad support need to be swapped as they're both different. The bottom attachments are a real pain in the ***. If you're determined to do this, start by taking the front fenders off.

You'd be smart to change the front assembly which includes both side and the top crossmember - that's how the repros are sold anyhow.

This is not a job for the faint of heart !!
 
Glen Ray radiator sells the brackets to put a 26 inch radiator in with a 22 inch radiator support.
 
Or if you are not trying to stay stock looking, find an aluminum radiator with large tubes. My 95 Dakota with the stock 2 row radiator never did the job very well and replaced it with an aluminum single core but with 1 1/4" tubes and now the thing never over heats no matter what I do to it! A 4 row radiator will never beat a 2 row with large tubes no matter what it's made of.....
 
I'd like a few of you to explain why a wider radiator would work just fine if 4 inches of the width is blocked by sheet metal. The entire point of using the bigger radiator is to improve cooling.
 
I'd like a few of you to explain why a wider radiator would work just fine if 4 inches of the width is blocked by sheet metal. The entire point of using the bigger radiator is to improve cooling.
That extra quart or 2 of coolant makes all the difference regardless of the hole size! Cr8crshr's 66-300 had a 22" radiator and he had cooling issues that we couldn't nail down. We raped an old Monaco at PnP of it's 26"er, the shroud and clutch fan and threw it into the 300, didn't even bother to cut out the hole, just drilled 2 holes and installed it, no more issues whatsoever. I would have to say that those 4 inches isn't affected with a 22" hole that's already there. This was BTW when we were in CA. so you know about the heat!
 
If it worked for you guys, that is great. To me, it seems like a half effort to not widen the support to allow the entire radiator core to get air flow.
 
I’m asking for friend who has a 2dr 66 post car that had a /6

He got a 67 4dr from me with a
318 A/C car with a good radiator and shroud.
He is transferring everything from 4dr into 2dr.
He is having trouble finding a 22 inch 3 or 4 core radiator.
I’m suggesting that we take the radiator support from 4dr and use in 2dr.
Never having done this before I’m just wondering how difficult it is to do?
IMO It looks unfinished to just put in 26 where a 22 was.

024438F8-D184-4182-A8B3-B14BEA3C088B.jpeg
 
I'd like a few of you to explain why a wider radiator would work just fine if 4 inches of the width is blocked by sheet metal. The entire point of using the bigger radiator is to improve cooling.

Not many cars with functioning cooling systems have issues overheating at speed. It’s almost always low speed stop and go conditions that get them. At those speeds, how big the core support opening is has very little effect, but coolant volume and flow from the cooling fan definitely do, both of which are superior with the 26” radiator and shroud.
 
I don’t always fully understand the reasons why the automakers build cars the way that they do but I dont recall ever seeing any car factory built with a radiator core wider than the support.
 
Last edited:
I do t always fully understand the reasons why the automakers build cars the way that they do but I di t recall ever seeing any car factory built with a radiator core wider than the support.

I’ve got one. Diesel squarebody Suburbans (and 89-91 454s) have an extra wide radiator that extends 4-6” wider than the core support opening on the driver side. I swapped to that setup in my ‘86 when I did the 8.1L Vortec conversion. I’m sure there are many others that way.
 
I’ve got one. Diesel squarebody Suburbans (and 89-91 454s) have an extra wide radiator that extends 4-6” wider than the core support opening on the driver side. I swapped to that setup in my ‘86 when I did the 8.1L Vortec conversion. I’m sure there are many others that way.
Figures… GM always cutting corners. :p :D
 
I thought...thought USCT, aka US Car Tool was selling the core support in 26" for this project. There were also videos up on Youtube once upon a time showing details of the job...and they were doing a B-body... I'll look for some links.
 
There are quite a few places that sell just the 26" passenger side opening. Drill the spot welds out, remove the bigger piece of sheetmetal and the position the smaller piece for the 26", secure and weld. Then your 26" radiator will look factory correct.
And that's the answer to the OG post.
 
I do t always fully understand the reasons why the automakers build cars the way that they do but I di t recall ever seeing any car factory built with a radiator core wider than the support.

Ma Mopar did this with the little 18" radiators they used on the /6's sometimes...big side brackets so the little rad could bolt up to the bigger 22" rad support. ;)
 
On a 68-70 B Body, the pass side yoke is the only piece that needs swapped. Everything else remains the same. You absolutely want the opening as large as the radiator so the engine clutch fan can pull air over the cooling fins.

Whether or not a 67 is the same or close, I don't know.
20160721_062219.jpg
20160811_115904.jpg
 
I'd like a few of you to explain why a wider radiator would work just fine if 4 inches of the width is blocked by sheet metal. The entire point of using the bigger radiator is to improve cooling.
Yes, if you block the outer 2" on both sides you haven't improved it
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top